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I just tried at my local service center in Charlotte, NC and they denied warranty claim on it. When I asked if it was covered as part of battery warranty, they said "NOPE" Such bullshit, when this is an obvious defect.... they should at least cover the early adopters as a sign of good faith...

The RWD (at least my 2018 build) has 3 legs in the PCS. Capable of charging at 40A from a 14-50 or 48A from a wall connector. I am here because 1 of mine just went bad, a few hundred miles out of warranty. I can only charge at 32A at home now.

I have the required updates (and beyond) on both my 2018 M3, and the iOS app but this just does not show up for me. I was enrolled in the FSD Beta for a few months, but opted out about 2 months ago - FWIW.

My observations were mainly about cruise control (though I did notice minor regressions in other areas as well). And I can tell you, unequivocally, that the adaptive cruise control experience is made MUCH worse by the removal of radar. I don't keep up enough to know about what stacks they're...

This was my experience to a T, and the reason I ultimately opted back out of the Beta. The phantom braking while using cruise control is just downright embarrassing, not to mention dangerous. I am not at all going to be happy when/if they push Vision on me again, unless it has progressed...

sorry to threadbump, but... I think you'd be crazy to sacrifice the front door woofers. They are very unique in how large they are, I upgraded mine to Focal ISU-200's (along with the tweeters), and it sounds fantastic. edit: sorry, misread.. you were talking about the rear door speakers.

I almost forgot, I had to wire in a relay circuit (detailed in another post in this forum) to prevent audio cut-outs. I never got any error messages per se, but Tesla changed the behavior of the car at some point and the 12V switch circuit that I had tapped into was causing the amp to turn on...

Yes, and the amp does stay powered on until the car goes to sleep (usually ~20-30 minutes after getting out). But the draw is so minuscule that it doesn't bother me.

I just bought the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 All-Seasons. 25k miles on my Primacy set and I'm down to the wear bars. Also in NC.

Happens to me, music over BT from iPhone. This has been going on for about a year, for me.

My LC2i no longer gets the yellow "overload" light, either, where it used to at about 50% if I cranked the sound all the way. It is outputting a little bit of sound to the amp, but turning the gain knob does absolutely nothing.

I did not get an error, but I've got some extreme weirdness going on with my system after that latest software update (may or may not be related). My LC2i and Rockford Amp both come on when I start the car (LEDs are on), but the sound output is practically nonexistent. I went back to my trunk...

I just noticed that my radar detector and aftermarket amp, which both tap off of the VCLeft connection, are off. This used to happen when the car “blew” the fuse after seeing abnormal power drain when the car went to sleep. When I first made these connections, they would shut off after the car...

The firmware line is their go-to when they're stumped. And FWIW, I almost always have mine below 77 and still get it. Personally, I haven't been able to figure out the conditions under which it happens. There seems to be no rhyme or reason.

As far as I know, it is. I still occasionally get it, and all I've seen are reports that Tesla techs are stumped / can't replicate.

Totally absurd that they are this fragile, IMO. I've never encountered anything like it. Made worse by the fact that the glass is so large and expensive to replace.

Just to circle back and update, the tint shop that pulled my defrost lines covered replacement of the entire back glass. Not sure how much it cost, but it did cause me to lose my cool orange hue :( The shop I used was very reputable, and the installer showed me on the old glass how these...

This changed a few updates ago. It now streams from BT.

The reason people tap the penthouse for 12V is that tapping the 12V battery directly will eventually cause the car to think your 12V battery has gone bad, and start throwing out messages telling you to replace it. pretty sweet setup!

Yes, I used the tweeters as well. I had to remove all the plastic casings from around the tweeter, then I wrapped the edge of the tweeter driver in electrical tape and jammed it in the plastic clips that held the factory tweeter. The fit is very tight, and you have to orient the tweeters just...

I would print them for folks, however my printer (maker select plus v2) is actually just a little too small to print these. I had to print in sections and fuse them together. So, I wouldn’t be crazy about charging folks for something that looks... let’s say less than professional (even though...

Yes speaker connectors are the same style as the dash speakers. I’m not familiar with the model you posted, mine is custom.

These pics should be viewable. Sorry, I messed up my big unveil!!! (Guess this is my bulletproof glass moment lol) I only got to test it for a few seconds before my wife scolded me (kids sleeping), but I guess the fact that she heard me from inside the house means it’s THX certified :)

Boom! 3971A761-EBD3-4D0F-8BFC-C75CE3F81D55 by flashflooder posted Apr 18, 2020 at 7:53 PM9B2B17FE-66B9-4431-BE94-4D1CA8B465A0 by flashflooder posted Apr 18, 2020 at 7:53 PM it is done, everything fit back together perfectly, what a journey!

I would rather do this than vinyl, but this kit is missing mirror and door handle pieces.... Not sure how difficult it would be to do those in vinyl and have the look match...

I have printed candidates for the front door brackets (to go with the Focal ISU 200 8" drivers), but haven't had time to take it all apart again and test the fit. I'm hoping to maybe give it a try this week. I'll keep everyone posted.

IMO, the car already does most of the things that Carplay offers, and in many cases does them better. But I would really, really like Apple Music integration.

Yes, but he didn't specify what year...

Elon is an outstanding man, but he has no problems bending the truth when it suits him. I doubt he would willingly admit to non-P owners that they have P hardware that is simply software locked, because he's seen how whiny his customers can be.

seatbeltextenderpros.com will point you to the ones you need

I have 3 across in mine, and use seat belt extenders (5", I believe). Safe as long as it doesn't cause the belt receptacle to be above the base of the booster. My 6 year old has no problem buckling herself in.

seatbeltextenderpros.com

Due to the placement of the belt receptacles, having 3 across and self-buckling is going to be difficult. I have 2 full car seats on either side, with a backless booster in the middle and my eldest (7) is barely able to buckle herself in due to the tight clearance between seats. I do use an...

Due to the placement of the belt receptacles, having 3 across and self-buckling is going to be difficult. I have 2 full car seats on either side, with a backless booster in the middle and my eldest (7) is barely able to buckle herself in due to the tight clearance between seats. I do use an...

Thanks for building this... impressive work!

It just depends on what's playing over the speakers when the crash happens. I've had some interesting-sounding crashes

FYI, the car has several bluetooth antennas and uses relative strength of each signal to "triangulate" your location.

typically, no

I want Apple Music :(

This says sides only if using LATCH. Putting a car seat in the center using the belt is perfectly acceptable. I should know, I'm rocking 3 across the back :)

I've had similar issues with the seat position. Sometimes it doesn't even make the switch from Easy Access to my profile's settings at all, and sometimes it only makes it part of the way there. Only reliable way to fix, that I've found, is to put in park, get out of the car and get back in.

If you believe Elon, it will only be going up over time... so the best time to buy would be now.

Filing the complaint seems like it would be a lot quicker. Seeing any kind of resolution from that complaint, another story.

sure looks like a stress crack, they'll cover it.

unfortunately, designing a bracket that's going to work is much, much harder than just cutting the top and bottom off a cone. The geometry is irregular in more than one dimension.

I think that black wire is a communication wire. In other words, don't touch it. the red terminal is indeed always-on 12V. If you're looking for a place to ground, the bolt right next to the red terminal will do just fine (the one with the green dot in your picture.

You do tend to get acclimated to the way something sounds over time. So it could just be the honeymoon wearing off. Not to say you're wrong, though.

You're mixing up Sentry Mode and TeslaCam. You can't disable TeslaCam based on location..

I've been getting this - and phantom braking (though not as hard/abrupt as it used to be) quite a bit on the latest software. Both very dangerous IMO.... seems like a step back to me.

I know this thread is ancient, but the same thing just happened to me... did you ever get this resolved? If you went the permatex route, can you share some pics?