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DIY solution to deadening tire noise

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MassModel3, post pictures, I'm curious what it looks like. Also, if you can, provide some details about it, materials, design, etc. if you can. :)

I bought my Model S without the parcel shelf and decided to build one instead of purchase. I used 1/4-inch sound absorbing foam over plywood as the primary structure, and I definitely noticed a difference in interior sound. My phone with a sound meter only indicated a 1 or 2 decibel difference, but there was a very noticeable change in sound. It seemed quieter, but I think it was actually a change in perceived pitch. I assume you're experiencing the same with perception vs. phone.
 
MassModel3, post pictures, I'm curious what it looks like. Also, if you can, provide some details about it, materials, design, etc. if you can. :)
This post is going to be off-topic, but since I was asked I wanted to provide an answer.

This project started because my wife wanted the parcel shelf and I didn't want to pay $250 for one. So, about $125 later....

I first learned that there are two primary types of sound suppression foam. There's the spongey stuff that you see in recording studios that's used to keep reflected sound minimized. And there's foam that's designed to minimize sound waves passing through it. This second type is what I used (link). It's not terribly expensive, but it's heavy. According to the website, the stuff I ordered was 1/8-inch thick and 1 pound per square foot. I think what they sold me was a little thicker (maybe 3/16-inch) and therefore a bit heavier. Yes, a roll of this stuff was HEAVY (I order 5 feet, they gave me about 7). They also told me they have yet to find an adhesive that sticks well to this foam, so I had to change my design plan slightly in that I now needed to put it on top of the plywood instead of on the bottom.

To begin with, I created a pattern for the proper fit. I had to wait until I had a loaner, then I used the parcel shelf from that car to trace out the size of both sections (on each side of the 'hinge').

I used 3/8-inch plywood and cut out the proper shapes using a jigsaw. The curved edge I sanded smooth and rounded it. The MLV foam cut easily with a razor. At the hinge section, I beveled the foam's edges so it didn't impede folding the shelf up. For aesthetics, I also beveled the foam's edge over the rounded shelf section. Now I had the 2 foam sections and 2 wood sections ready for assembly.

I glued the 3 long straight edges of the plywood pieces into aluminum trim channels for extra support. Next, I spread construction adhesive across the top of the plywood and laid my MLV foam on top. I used 1/2-inch wood screws (probably lots more than I needed) to permanently affix the foam to the plywood. The screws sank into the foam and were almost flush (bonus!). Over the aluminum tracks, I drilled several holes through the foam, into the aluminum track, and into the plywood. I then screwed the foam into the aluminum to ensure flat edges.

I used the denim legs of an old pair of jeans to create the hinge, which I glued down with construction adhesive. First I glued a hinge across the top with the two boards together (a small spacer of folded denim between the boards to create a small gap for the rest of the hinge), then once that dried I folded the shelf in half and glued another hinge across the flat areas (this filled the gap). On both top and bottom hinge areas, I extended the denim about 2 inches over the wood to ensure permanence. I also used denim to wrap the rear flat edge over the aluminum, just to give it a smoother feel and help protect the car.

Next, I cut the 1/2-inch cotton batting slightly larger than it needed to be to covert he entire shelf in a single piece. I sprayed the top of the MLV foam with the LocTite and stuck the batting on, then wrapped the batting tightly around the edges and glued it down to the wood on the bottom, making sure to cut it away from the hinge area.

I'm not sure the fabric I used -- maybe nylon. Black, shiny, and slightly stretchy. I just liked the look and feel of it. I wrapped the top of the batting and used a staple gun to fasten it to the bottom of the plywood. I left the fabric free floating on the batting.

Last step was just a cheap carpet runner from the local discount store that I glued on the bottom using heavy duty construction adhesive.

The completed project weighs in at a hefty 25 pounds, but I can definitely tell that the pitch inside the car is lower and it seems quieter to me. And my wife is happy she has her parcel shelf. Win/win.

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I'm in the next phase of this experiment. You'll see earlier in this thread that my first attempt at lining my 20" Pirellis with foam failed owing to the glue not holding (it was water based contact cement). So the foam was removed (it was loose anyway, making the wheels way out of balance and creating major rotational problems).

I drove to California and back on the Pirellis and when I returned removed them, installed the 21's, and relined the 20s with foam using solvent based contact cement. That's the glue I should have used in the first place. The foam is attached so strongly I can't remove it with out tearing it.

In a few weeks I'll reinstall the 20s and do some sound testing and report back what I find.
 
Then...
This morning the 20" wheels with the foam-lined Pirelli Cinurato tires were mounted on my Model S. Remember, I used my own foam and installed the foam myself. When I took it out for a test drive the road noise was noticeably reduced for an already relatively quiet tire. But when my speed reached over 50mph the vibration was intolerable (this did not happen with my Recticel-lined Michelin Pilot sport 21s). The wheels/tires had been balanced before installation on the car but the shop told me it took far more weight than normal to balance them -- not a good sign. So it appears the foam I chose works very well but DYI installation is not doable, as the perfect alignment of the foam in the tire is evidently critical to balance.

So I now consider my experiment a failure. The foam considerably reduces road noise but I'm sorry to say that DYI installation appears to be unfeasible.

And now...
I'm in the next phase of this experiment. You'll see earlier in this thread that my first attempt at lining my 20" Pirellis with foam failed owing to the glue not holding (it was water based contact cement). So the foam was removed (it was loose anyway, making the wheels way out of balance and creating major rotational problems).

I drove to California and back on the Pirellis and when I returned removed them, installed the 21's, and relined the 20s with foam using solvent based contact cement. That's the glue I should have used in the first place. The foam is attached so strongly I can't remove it with out tearing it.

In a few weeks I'll reinstall the 20s and do some sound testing and report back what I find.

The excitement builds again! I certainly hope the results are better than before. I'm glad you're so persistent because I, for one, am very excited to hear how this round of testing play out!

Thanks you, artsci, for your determination and for taking us along for the ride. :biggrin:
 
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Then...

And now...

The excitement builds again! I certainly hope the results are better than before. I'm glad you're so persistent because I, for one, am very excited to hear how this round of testing play out!

Thanks you, artsci, for your determination and for taking us along for the ride. :biggrin:

My self foam-lined Pirellis 20s go back on the car next week. Will report back then. These are the same tires (then without the foam) that took me coast to coast in July for Tesla Connect in
Santa Clara. I'm very confident the new glue will hold the foam in place.
 
Success!

The 20" DIY foam-lined Pirelli tires were installed on my wheels and car this am. Unlike my previous failed attempt the foam has stayed in place, and the tire road noise is noticeably diminished on all kinds of surfaces. It was a rainy day so I expect even better results on a dry day.

The total cost was less than $100. Will post info on materials needed and install steps for those who want to do this. It can be done with any tire -- the steps and materials are the same.
 
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Sweet! Where do we get this from?

Success!

The 20" DIY foam-lined Pirelli tires were installed on my wheels and car this am. Unlike my previous failed attempt the foam has stayed in place, and the tire road noise is noticeably diminished on all kinds of surfaces. It was a rainy day so I expect even better results on a dry day.

The total cost was less than $100. Will post info on materials needed and install steps for those who want to do this. It can be done with any tire -- the steps and materials are the same.
 
Warning: This is for information only and anyone doing an installation of foam in tires is responsible for any consequences of a failed installation or any other related problems, including damage to the car, wheels, tires, and any other parts of the car. This information has not been authorized, reviewed, or in any other way sanctioned by Tesla Motors.

Here are the parts, tools, and instructions for the foam installation.

Tools, parts, and aides needed:


· The Foam Factory: Acoustic Foam – Eggcrate, 48" x 72" x 2-1/2" - 2-Pack

1 gallon Dap 25316 Weldwood Gel Formula Contact Cement

· 1 4” brush for applying contact cement

· I paint tray with plastic liner for contact cement

· Large flat work surface for cutting foam strips and applying contact cement to foam

· A place to set the tires upright at a convenient height for brushing on the contact cement to the inside of tires. An old outdoor chair with arms is good for this purpose.

· 6 dowels cut to sufficient width to separate the tire edges while the foam is placed in position

Installation steps

· Measure the tread width of the tires you are planning to line

· Cut four foam strips to this width from the 48” x 72” foam sheet. (Each piece should be 72” long by the width of the tire tread)

· Line the paint tray with the plastic liner, then pour a generous portion of the contact cement into it

· Brush one coat of contact cement onto the flat side of each foam strip and set aside to dry. Be careful to keep them apart so there’s no chance they will touch each other.

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· Brush one coat of contact cement to the inside of each tire, to approximately the width of the tread. Precision here is not necessary as long as the tread width is covered. Set the tires aside for the contact cement to dry

· Brush a second coat of contact cement on the same flat side of each of the foam strips

· Place the tire in a stable work position and place the dowels evenly around its edges to separate them for the foam application. The dowels will also help keep the foam and tire contact cement surfaces apart while the foam is laid into place inside the tire.

DSC_6100.jpg


· Starting with one edge of the foam, center it on the inside tire surface and place it firmly into place, working around the tire inner surface and removing dowels as you go until the entire inner tread surface is lined with foam. When you reach the edge of the initial foam placement cut the foam so both edges align firmly and press into place.

DSC_6103.JPG


DSC_6105.JPG



· Work all the way around the tire with your hands or a roller to be sure the foam is placed firmly into place.

· Do the same with the remaining tires.

· Allow the contact cement to cure for one week before mounting the tires on your rims.

· Mount the tires on the rims and have then professionally balanced before installing them on the car.

· Drive the car on a highway at 70 – 80 mph and check for any unusual vibration. There should be none if the foam is properly adhered and the tires/wheels accurately balanced.
 
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That is super cool, thank you for sharing, Rick!

Having never used contact cement before, how long do you "let it dry" between coats and before actually applying the foam to the tire?

I can't wait for your quantitative measurements.

It takes about 20 minutes for one coat to dry sufficiently at about 70 degrees. I use the touch test: touch the cement with a clean finger tip. When it's dry no cement will adhere to your finger.

But do not do this indoors if possible. The contact cement puts off toxic, flammable vapors until it's completely dry and cured. If you do this in a garage or other indoor space make sure it's well ventilated and you wear a vapor mask/respirator. A vapor mask is a good idea for any painting or other project that requires working with materials that put off toxic vapors or dust. Even if you do this outdoors you should wear a vapor mask.

I've started taking measurement but need to average results over a period of about a week. One or two days are not sufficient. But so far so good.
 
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Rick,

thank you so much for this procedure.

your link for the foam leads to:

Dap 25316 Weldwood Gel Formula Contact Cement - Tan Gallon @ amazon.

Should I buy the 25316 or use the 00271 as per your instructions? I have difficulties finding a gallon of the 00271. The usual quantity is a pint and I would need 8 pints for 1 gallon. But I find a gallon of 00273 on amazon. Can I use this instead of 00271?

Please clarify. Thank you.

Michael Emrich
 
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