DMC FW: Line Current Not Equal Request fault

[candersoh]

hi - i noticed that my roadster (2.0 s) stopped charging and i'm getting the above mentioned fault. the outlet is fine as i use it to charge our X (50 amp). i get same results on the roadster using the 240 cable as well as the 110 cable on different outlets. the battery is cold with about 144 range miles on it. when i plug it in, the display says it's warming battery and it's zero % complete and charge port is blinking blue and then it changes to blinking red.

any suggestions?

 

[candersoh]

if i understand correctly, i see that some have had success replacing the the fuses for the battery heater? anyone know if this could be it?

 

[hcsharp]

if i understand correctly, i see that some have had success replacing the the fuses for the battery heater? anyone know if this could be it?

Yes, I believe that's it. Be very careful with your choice of fuses. If you use the wrong ones they will melt the fuse holder and you'll have to take your PEM apart to replace them.

 

[candersoh]

thank you! don't suppose there's a fuse diagram available somewhere? do u know if the fuses are something i can buy at an auto zone or are they something i have to buy through tesla? thanks again

 

[ShawnA]

Hi Candersoh,

Do not waste your time with Auto Zone they will not have it.

The fuse is EF10AH 250 V P is a ceramic fuse - DO NOT SUBSTITUTE

They are easily and readily available at McMaster under their part 6986K642.

They are in stock and a package of 5 is about $10.

Good Luck, Shawn

 

[mpt]

McMaster-Carr is the direct link.

Thanks for posting - just had the same issue here.

 

[slcasner]

Are you sure the problem is one of those small fuses? When I recently had 963 faults it was caused by one of the big AC line input fuses blowing. See here.

 

[mpt]

Are you sure the problem is one of those small fuses?

I'm not but, the circumstances feel right, the fuses are cheap and I won't be able to open the PEM until the weekend so, that's the plan for now. I'll revert when I know for sure. Thanks for the pointer to the other issue though, that'll be my next port of call if this doesn't resolve it.

 

[jnordeng]

I think my fuse is blown again, are there any precautions I should make before I open the lid and change it my self?

 

[ShawnA]

Hi Jnordeng,

Which fuse has blown the tiny one I referenced above?
Or the large one that slcasner mentioned?

If it's the smaller of the fuses that are located just under the external PEM cover,
it could be that your coolant-battery heater has failed.

Shawn

 

[slcasner]

I think my fuse is blown again, are there any precautions I should make before I open the lid and change it my self?

If you have a 2.x car, it's easy to take off the small cover over the fuses. If you have a 1.5 car, you have to take off the full-width cover of the PEM which is more difficult because of the angle on the rear edge.

It's always a good idea to use a multimeter to measure the voltage to ground from any point that you plan to touch. If there is a significant voltage present, you can detect a failed fuse if the voltage is not the same at both ends. If there is no voltage present, then you can use the ohmmeter to check for continuity.

The big line input fuses are imposing, but there should not be any voltage present if you don't have a charge cable connected since one end of the fuse goes to the charge port. On the 1.5 there is a microswitch that detects when the cover is taken off and generates a warning message. Probably also on the 2.x, but I have not tried it.

 

[ShawnA]

There is also a microswitch on my 2.0 that does send an error to the VDS
when that cover is removed... even when the car is off.
I cannot remember the message.

Shawn

 

[jnordeng]

The car charges fine when the battery is warm so I'm quite sure it's the 5x20mm fuse. Will the alarm from the microswitch go away by itself, or do I have to clear it manually afterwards?
Tesla used glass fuses bought locally when they changed it the last time, but I didn't ask if it was a fast or a slow fuse, do any of you know?

 

[slcasner]

I did not need to do anything to reset the alarm after putting the PEM cover back on.

 

[X.l.r.8]

Me either. Reset itself.

 

[ShawnA]

Hi Jnordeng,

Tesla used glass fuses bought locally when they changed it the last time, but I didn't ask if it was a fast or a slow fuse, do any of you know?

They are fast acting.
Amazon stocks them.
No Amazon in Norway
Amazon says ShopUSA ships Amazon product to Norway...

Good Luck,

Shawn

 

[jnordeng]

I bought them in a local shop and changed them yesterday. The spring in one off the fuseholders had lost all tension, so I ordered new ones from Digi-Key. At the moment there is no need for battery heating, but if i don't use my car this weekend I might see if it's working on Monday morning.

 

[mpt]

Happy days, all fixed!

For me it was the heater fuse:

• 20 mins reading TMC
• 10 mins ordering online
• 10 mins discovering I don't have a T-20 security bit and ordering one on Amazon
• 10 mins avoiding everything else that took my interest on Amazon
• 3 mins to open the PEM, take out the right fuse, confirm it was blown and replace both it and the PEM cover.
• 7 mins to report back to TMC

1 hour fix - Go TMC Roadster Team!

 

[X.l.r.8]

are you SURE you didn’t order anything else? I’ve never gotten away with only ordering one thing.