Search results

Oh, I see, well, let us know wha you find out!

I'm probably misunderstanding but, if you have the original Tesla HID update, isn't the bulb a specific part paired to the transformer that's included? FYI, I actually switched my original conversion to LEDs a couple of years ago.

I'd recommend removal unless you're thinking that you're likely to scratch it. I found that the screen was so much better after!

I have the TSportline on the RWD, trouble free fine since 2018. I have 15mm / 20mm spacers on the 19's powder coated. They don't rub or ground on anything so far. Would definitely do those again!

@Leilomo I posted a video at showing the difference between the UP Moderate and TSportline which are the same as the UP Mild. So, you can see what happens if you go too far!

+1 for the above and, the other options include but are not limited to... 1. Open and close your charge port at least ten times in quick succession to 'reset' the system. 2. If you have no reaction to the cord then, yes, it's likely the GFCI. I (and I stress I ) would cut the GFCI off and...

Definitely. It takes a while to get used to using your left foot without any force ( compared to the clutch pedal some old piston cars have to have) but yes, there’s a reason why race drivers use both feet!

Interrrrreeeessstttingg... My TSportLine springs have been problem free for a couple of years but started creaking recently. They're sending out some plastic sleeves to resolve it.

As your car was post May I don't think that you ever had it. I suspect you just didn't notice it. The way we've detected it though has been to bang on the floor to see if it resonates, not actually press hard like that. Maybe you could mention it to your service center next time it's near.

From what we know, this is more cosmetic than structural - this is still a Model 3 with a 5-star+ safety rating so, I would think that your son is as safe as it gets! The difference between your car and mine is that when the metal flexes a bit, there's a bit of fluffy padding under the metal...

Finally! Tesla's FSD Beta has a new Speed Limit Cruise Control feature It's in beta, 'Cruise Set Speed'

I feel that we were duped... again. I and a few friends have emailed the support line with no response at all.

It is absolutely normal, the slack in the transmission is spectacular. Fix: transition from drive to regen gently. You can get the same by pushing the car back/forward on flat ground with handbrake off and in park.

Battery Safety Monitor is a popular fault, it's usually damp in the cabin heater causing great fear in the high voltage system monitors. If you can, wheel it out into the sun to warm through or, if you can, turn on the blower fan or heater and chances are it'll clear. If not, come back the...

I'd not anticipate an issue, the car's the same weight no?

OK, so, I had to share, I've never been super impressed with the image quality on the screen on my Tesla Model 3, it had a few imperceptible scuffs and some possibly bad pixels. Two years in I started to notice a blister in the bottom corner and...

I do it every time I get into a Model 3 but, you know, that's between you, me, my therapist and the TMC crowd.

Shouldn't need resistors to fake the extra load. The ones I selected don't trigger any mis-diagnosis of failure.

According to the original press release details, the facility had been extensively modified from Office to factory/showroom. That's a lot of work and creates something fairly specific in nature.

8300 E. Raintree Dr. in Scottsdale, AZ has been sold to a Chinese Investor. Cushman & Wakefield handled the sale. I wonder if this is for someone like Byton or BYD? Chinese Investor Pays $14M for Arizona’s Largest Tesla Facility

Happy days, all fixed! For me it was the heater fuse: 20 mins reading TMC 10 mins ordering online 10 mins discovering I don't have a T-20 security bit and ordering one on Amazon 10 mins avoiding everything else that took my interest on Amazon 3 mins to open the PEM, take out the right fuse...

We know... we want that for our 3's

I'm not but, the circumstances feel right, the fuses are cheap and I won't be able to open the PEM until the weekend so, that's the plan for now. I'll revert when I know for sure. Thanks for the pointer to the other issue though, that'll be my next port of call if this doesn't resolve it.

McMaster-Carr is the direct link. Thanks for posting - just had the same issue here.

Yes.

I'm not seeing the error which suggests that the bulbs are using just enough power to satisfy the sensor on my car. Those capacitors look like they include a resistor likely able to increase the current consumption enough to trick the car into feeling that the lights are good, for you I'd...

I've always swapped both low and high beams. I have the original un-shuttered halogen lamps with fixed and separate low and high beam halogen bulbs. Tesla offered a $2k5 upgrade to Xenon that involved switching the low beam for a shuttered mechanical xenon combination low/high beam bulb.

We should add that to the poll :-)

I've been wondering how autopilot compares to a real human driver - what do you think?

"Was that the car again?" It really spoils my enjoyment of the car. I find myself defending the car and Tesla even though I get nothing from a decade of support - not even referral credits but actually, I wish that you could just disable TACC below a certain speed, perhaps adjustable. There's a...

:0 no, that'd be bad actually, it'd mean that the keys to decrypt communications with the car where in the wild which would (literally) open the door to hackers breaking into our cars! ...And that we could make our own software tweaks too so, maybe not _all_ bad :)

I cover the whole process at the beginning of this whole thread including opening the access panel in the liner but, If you find that inserting the new bulb is difficult, you can loosen the screws around the build but only a couple of turns otherwise the insides of the lamp fall in! When you...

I wish! Actually, being serious, the lights in the Roadster are separate low beam and high beam on the original lights - these aren't the shuttered Xenon upgrades from Tesla - and the design on the lens produces a pretty sharp cutoff. The lights are only a few feet above the ground and come from...

Part 2 - Ripping out the Xenons Time to upgrade the XENON's to LED technology. The Xenon solution has worked well for the last, 8, 9, years but in the last few I've noticed that the output seems to have been falling... or my eyes are getting older. Whilst LEDs have been around for a while...

We should organize a meet up where we can all push/drag our cars to and compare error codes over coffee.

I'm in Warren, NJ if that helps but my car is currently on bricks awaiting the return of the wheels!

The email was clearly ill conceived and not segmented on VIN and existing spec. When I click through the link this morning, it lands on the account page which I take to mean "We're rethinking it." I'm very tempted, especially if it covers the cost of v3 hardware, I just want it to be able to...

"Google 'Tesla Motors Club' - I' already super-late for my next thing."

Yep, that's no understatement :-) Thanks for taking the time, I'm sure it took longer than planned, had tricky bits that were frustrating and that you wondered why you were even bothering at all but you pushed through! ** ** I may be projecting a bit there.

Infinitesimally. The motor still switches off when you actually stop, it cuts off at about 1mph on Roadster for sure - it's why it's impossible to bring a Roadster to stop smoothly unlike SX3 that can disable creep - and automagically hold the brake at standstill. btw: even if the motor were...

I'd like to disable TACC altogether.

It's 1999 all over again. "{Rick} Wagoner has said the biggest mistake he ever made as chief executive was killing the EV1"

It increases my stress level thinking about how my current SmartED my next Tesla will make a noise and I won't be able to defeat it. How can we rally support for a stupid-noise free future?

Agreed with that; I don't need a 'chill' mode (because I got the model with the variable accelerator pedal) nor do I need a fire place or to play Atari games in my car but what I'd really like is to have a cruise control (and Auto-Steer) that accelerated and decelerated like a Chauffeur, instead...

Oh yes, still stupid kludge. They've accidentally merged the speed warning and cruise controls into the same UI :oops:

The good recent news is that you can now set the set speed to -20mph, i.e. 20mph under the limit. This means that it usually works OK now. Still regularly flutters when it thinks it's seen something, I'd still like to disable TACC altogether but, I can and do use it a bit now.

I think if I do, I'll wait until summer now - I know that seems counter intuitive but my Roadster is becoming a fair weather garage princess!

That's interesting, please keep us in the loop with what they do and if it works.

I think that's the cutover point where flufferbot got the boot. I imagine the fix would be battery out unless they can inject something in from inside the cabin.

... or an empty metal dustbin! I think it's harmless and, unless someone actually bashes on the floor of your car... like we were all doing on Saturday at a meet up... it'll never be. problem :-)