Yes, I've had three DU replacements for this issue. The service centers should be able to make this repair locally now, but it requires special equipment and training. Not all service centers are up to speed yet on this procedure.
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Drive Unit Replacement Poll
- Thread starter nleggatt
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- Driving Dynamics Model S
Yes, I've had three DU replacements for this issue. The service centers should be able to make this repair locally now, but it requires special equipment and training. Not all service centers are up to speed yet on this procedure.
mknox
Well-Known Member
Interesting. Before my malfunction, Tesla had already reached out to me about a proactive replacement and I had assumed it was just with some of the very early cars. If this problem goes all the way out to D packs, they may have a lot of retrofits to do!
I picked up my S85 on Sep 29th, 2014 and had to have my DU replaced in early May 2015, with ~25000 miles on it... extremely loud whine from inverter.... really loud on the radio at 1070 KHz and no local station to interfere. Mine was replaced with a remanufactured one, but they actually replaced the replacement before giving it back to me. I agree that remanufacturing them shouldn't be at a high cost, but we'll only know what they charge when the 8 year, unlimited mile warranty expires. My thoughts dictate a sub-$1000 repair, and the labor cost for removal, replacement, wheel alignment and coolant change. All of those were indicated as necessary for drive unit replacement on my invoice as well as on other thread posts.
I have been told that all replaced DU are now remanufactured ones. I had mine done at the factory SC, and my paperwork stated they were both reman'd DU's.
Scotty
I have been told that all replaced DU are now remanufactured ones. I had mine done at the factory SC, and my paperwork stated they were both reman'd DU's.
Scotty
bareyb
Active Member
Yep. New DU. Works well again. No noises. I'm trying to be less of a lead foot with this one. See if it helps.
dirkhh
Middle-aged Member
dirkhh
Middle-aged Member
This last Friday evening I had been parked, put the car in Drive, stepped on the accelerator, went about three feet and hard a loud bang. The car then sounded like gears were grinding. At first I thought it was a tire. Fortunately I was able to pull over to the curb. Once I pulled over the car wouldn't move.
I then waited 49 minutes (!) for Tesla roadside service to answer/call back. By far the longest I ever waited. I then waited for another 45 minutes for the tow truck. At least it was a Friday night.
Fortunately, the service team was, as usual, awesome. They diagnosed the problem and got me a loaner Saturday afternoon. (A "D". I immediately set it to Insane just to see how different it felt.)
Hopefully I'll get my car back tomorrow.
P08098. 30k miles. First DU. But, I've had the battery pack replaced and had 4 12v batteries among a few smaller issues.
I then waited 49 minutes (!) for Tesla roadside service to answer/call back. By far the longest I ever waited. I then waited for another 45 minutes for the tow truck. At least it was a Friday night.
Fortunately, the service team was, as usual, awesome. They diagnosed the problem and got me a loaner Saturday afternoon. (A "D". I immediately set it to Insane just to see how different it felt.)
Hopefully I'll get my car back tomorrow.
P08098. 30k miles. First DU. But, I've had the battery pack replaced and had 4 12v batteries among a few smaller issues.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
P17540 goes into the new Tysons Corner SC on the 4th of June with almost 39,000 miles for key fob issues, loud AC pump whine, cracking knuckles sound from the backend when accelerating and decelerating, leaky taillights, leaking windshield washer reservoir and water reservoir sensor - that doesn't light - even when the reservoir is empty and cracking sound from the front end (might be the steering rack).
P35386 goes in the next day with almost 19,000 miles for cracking knuckles sound from the backend, loud AC pump whine, mis-aligned chrome strips (drivers side door), leaky tail lights (one has a leaf in it not sure how this is possible), key fob failure (i think this is the main unit). I pretty sure this one will get a new DU - it sounds really bad - almost like popcorn kernels exploding - in sync - with two distinct pops.....really weird...could be the main electrical relays opening and closing too...also the center brake light has water marks inside it....not sure how that is happening. Also adding a Torque Lift Hitch install (already have one on P17540 and it works great for my bike rack)
Believe it or not I think the P17540 is actually a better build quality than the P35386...the chrome strip is over 1/2 inch out of alignment and on a black car you can spot it very easily - not sure how this got through quality control..
I love these cars and the SC team up in Rockville, hopefully Tysons Corner has the same high level of attentiveness that the Rockville team delivered. Six weeks from call to service - these cars are getting very popular! I count no less than 12 in our little neighborhood - but I think we are the only two Tesla household in our community!
My DU was replaced erronously to fix the hard acceleration failure in P17540 caused by the loose wire - which was corrected in later builds. Neither car has ever failed me - even with the hard acceleration fail, I just rebooted the car and continued on down the road. It has never happened again in either car after they fixed the it... and the service has been red carpet like... if I could afford it I would buy another 70 or 85 for my daughter - with autopilot - to protect her as she develops her driving skills. From talking to other owners of the newer builds they have worked a lot of these issues out of later builds... I bet the new ones are of higher quality. If the 85D had been around back when I bought these, I would have gotten it.... it has a little better range, AWD, and performance that blows away 99% of regular cars on the road.
P35386 goes in the next day with almost 19,000 miles for cracking knuckles sound from the backend, loud AC pump whine, mis-aligned chrome strips (drivers side door), leaky tail lights (one has a leaf in it not sure how this is possible), key fob failure (i think this is the main unit). I pretty sure this one will get a new DU - it sounds really bad - almost like popcorn kernels exploding - in sync - with two distinct pops.....really weird...could be the main electrical relays opening and closing too...also the center brake light has water marks inside it....not sure how that is happening. Also adding a Torque Lift Hitch install (already have one on P17540 and it works great for my bike rack)
Believe it or not I think the P17540 is actually a better build quality than the P35386...the chrome strip is over 1/2 inch out of alignment and on a black car you can spot it very easily - not sure how this got through quality control..
I love these cars and the SC team up in Rockville, hopefully Tysons Corner has the same high level of attentiveness that the Rockville team delivered. Six weeks from call to service - these cars are getting very popular! I count no less than 12 in our little neighborhood - but I think we are the only two Tesla household in our community!
My DU was replaced erronously to fix the hard acceleration failure in P17540 caused by the loose wire - which was corrected in later builds. Neither car has ever failed me - even with the hard acceleration fail, I just rebooted the car and continued on down the road. It has never happened again in either car after they fixed the it... and the service has been red carpet like... if I could afford it I would buy another 70 or 85 for my daughter - with autopilot - to protect her as she develops her driving skills. From talking to other owners of the newer builds they have worked a lot of these issues out of later builds... I bet the new ones are of higher quality. If the 85D had been around back when I bought these, I would have gotten it.... it has a little better range, AWD, and performance that blows away 99% of regular cars on the road.
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Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Michelin pilot sports replaced after 3 months and 4000 miles on a P85+. Really???? $960 this is unsat
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Kalud
Active Member
You have a tire mileage Warranty from Michelin, check this and get a replacement almost for free.
Tire Warranty | Michelin Promise Plan
You need to call to fill a claim, they will send you to a trusted dealer and will get you a replacement at a fraction of the original cost.
Xenoilphobe, As a driver of P16138, P85+, I am curious about the wire you mentioned above? Just want to know where and what to check next time I have it up in the air. Going to put the wheel protectors on soon, so Tessie be going on the hoist.
Also curious about the knuckle cracking if the SC comes up with a fix. This car has almost 19k on it, July, 2013 delivery. Original DU. Prior owner sent it back for the Knuckle cracking and they said it was normal.....
You mentioned tire wear. Lowering links? If you drop them toe in on the back, and toe out on the front both get bigger. Add that to the negative camber and tires eat it on the insides. Alignment adjustments and longer rear upper arms, are needed to be made for that lower sleek look. I made adjustments to this car and the 2015 P85D in the Office Fleet. The P85+ sucked up 2 sets of rears in 8k prior to these changes, we will see over time how the adjustments did. Fronts I changed at 16k. 21" turbine wheels, so Pilots, not rotatable. I did not get involved in the details of this car until about 2 months ago.
As to the P85D, yes, that makes the P85+ a lesser car
As a driver, who has a kit Cobra (1996 builder of same), a comp license, and instructs at a Club level, the flat tracking of the P85D is noticeable when I get to drive the P85D, which I did to do the suspension adjustments post link changes. The P85+ doesn't nose dive much on braking, it slightly lifts on acceleration, but the D - perfectly flat in both. You just know the suspension won't be upset, and the tires will be hanging on as you go faster in a D.....
Also curious about the knuckle cracking if the SC comes up with a fix. This car has almost 19k on it, July, 2013 delivery. Original DU. Prior owner sent it back for the Knuckle cracking and they said it was normal.....
You mentioned tire wear. Lowering links? If you drop them toe in on the back, and toe out on the front both get bigger. Add that to the negative camber and tires eat it on the insides. Alignment adjustments and longer rear upper arms, are needed to be made for that lower sleek look. I made adjustments to this car and the 2015 P85D in the Office Fleet. The P85+ sucked up 2 sets of rears in 8k prior to these changes, we will see over time how the adjustments did. Fronts I changed at 16k. 21" turbine wheels, so Pilots, not rotatable. I did not get involved in the details of this car until about 2 months ago.
As to the P85D, yes, that makes the P85+ a lesser car
As a driver, who has a kit Cobra (1996 builder of same), a comp license, and instructs at a Club level, the flat tracking of the P85D is noticeable when I get to drive the P85D, which I did to do the suspension adjustments post link changes. The P85+ doesn't nose dive much on braking, it slightly lifts on acceleration, but the D - perfectly flat in both. You just know the suspension won't be upset, and the tires will be hanging on as you go faster in a D.....
Perhaps there should have been a 0 drive units replaced option on the poll.
I have over 53,000 miles on my car with the original drive unit.
I have over 53,000 miles on my car with the original drive unit.
If one goes through the tires mentioned upthread in 4k miles(racing excluded), then I really doubt that the wear is going to be even.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Knuckles cracking sound was diagnosed as the play in the half shafts.
The tires did wear uneven and the tesla rep said that Michelin will not honor their warranty for wear. He said the administrative time they have spent with Michelin has not been worth the effort. I had earlier stated that it had to be obvious road damage - and thats not the case either - Michelin will definitely not pay for that - it requires an insurance claim...
If I were Tesla I would dump Michelin for this crap product. He said they deny most of the claims they attempted on earlier cars. $1K per 4000 miles for two tires is insane - also if the tires are not rotated, which you can't do an a P85+ Michelin cuts their standard warranty in half.... a PS2 only has a 20K warranty, so it really is only 10K in coverage....
You will see some staggered 21's for sale soon - I drive 30,000 miles per year - which would cost me $10,000 per year if you include replacing the fronts every 8K miles..
The tires did wear uneven and the tesla rep said that Michelin will not honor their warranty for wear. He said the administrative time they have spent with Michelin has not been worth the effort. I had earlier stated that it had to be obvious road damage - and thats not the case either - Michelin will definitely not pay for that - it requires an insurance claim...
If I were Tesla I would dump Michelin for this crap product. He said they deny most of the claims they attempted on earlier cars. $1K per 4000 miles for two tires is insane - also if the tires are not rotated, which you can't do an a P85+ Michelin cuts their standard warranty in half.... a PS2 only has a 20K warranty, so it really is only 10K in coverage....
You will see some staggered 21's for sale soon - I drive 30,000 miles per year - which would cost me $10,000 per year if you include replacing the fronts every 8K miles..
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