Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Driver Seat Sensor not recognizing when Driver Gets out

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
2020 Model Y - recently had intermittent Bluetooth auto-connect failure and now the screen stays dark when entering the vehicle and sitting in the driver’s seat. Tesla mobile service diagnosed most likely an occupant sensor problem. Now having to “shop” the vehicle at a service center for seat removal so that they can replace the sensor. The technician says it can be shop replaced on that side. The passenger side (if it fails) requires an entire seat replacement. I hope that never happens.
Just FYI - tapping the brake and touching the screen brings everything up for vehicle use, so I’m not inconvenienced too much. I needed a windshield replacement anyway.
 
I've recently had the same/similar issue; the car going into park at slow speeds and MCU staying on after exiting the car.

Tesla said I needed a new seat base at a cost of circa £2500.

I took the seat out and found the location of the pressure sensor (circled red in pic). It's stuck to the base with adhesive.

I got the part number off the old sensor (1005424-00-A) and called Tesla to find they do in fact sell the sensor separately for £100.

I've now received and installed the new sensor. It comes preinstalled with an adhesive pad to attach to the seat base and there's just one plug to connect.

The car is now working perfectly.

View attachment 636085 View attachment 636086 View attachment 636087 View attachment 636088
Was the process to remove and install the new sensor difficult?

Had the same situation just happen and Tesla quoted close to $1500 USD to replace the seat bottom.

Was told that they could not replace just the sensor. I am thinking about just replacing myself if the process is not too bad.

I have rebuilt door locks and replaced lift struts. So thinking this process should not be too difficult.
 
Just FYI - tapping the brake and touching the screen brings everything up for vehicle use, so I’m not inconvenienced too much. I needed a windshield replacement anyway.
Update: After "fiddling" with the lower seat cushion "innards" for a few minutes, the occupant sensor started working fairly reliably again. Apparently, its position within the seat is important, but not tied down very well. If this changes, I will report this here. Now that the sensor is working, the Bluetooth auto-connect started working again. In addition, the HVAC unit stays on now when the passenger gets out while parked to plug in the car (just sayin') at a Supercharging station.
 
Update: After "fiddling" with the lower seat cushion "innards" for a few minutes, the occupant sensor started working fairly reliably again. Apparently, its position within the seat is important, but not tied down very well. If this changes, I will report this here. Now that the sensor is working, the Bluetooth auto-connect started working again. In addition, the HVAC unit stays on now when the passenger gets out while parked to plug in the car (just sayin') at a Supercharging station.
What did you fiddle with if you dont mind me asking. Tesla is telling me the part is no longer available. They are checking other regions but at the moment i am SOL unless i was to replace the whole bottom seat. Not the ideal choice.
 
I had this same issue. The sensor does in fact control the airbag deployment. It started by saying I wasn’t buckled. On and off. Then it didn’t know if I was in the car it not and wasn’t powering down one close door. Played all the games. Then I got the airbag off all the time. My car is still under the btb warranty so they replaced the entire harness suite under the car. It was like $1800 for that. Can you ask for that?
Hi there.

I have had three symptoms and would appreciate your opinion:
- car jumps into park at low speed sometimes
- exterior eyebrow lights stay on sometimes
- airbag light permanently off.

Tesla came once and fiddled with the seat connector and said they had moved the cable routing - worked for a while.

Is this covered under extended warranty ? I have a 2018 Model S
 

Attachments

  • 6A0F8DDF-4F66-4AC7-A020-6E7758BD9BE9.jpeg
    6A0F8DDF-4F66-4AC7-A020-6E7758BD9BE9.jpeg
    554.2 KB · Views: 149
  • 54E8AA12-EECC-4DDC-8ABF-34259B39FA92.jpeg
    54E8AA12-EECC-4DDC-8ABF-34259B39FA92.jpeg
    337 KB · Views: 67
Yes it would be covered under the btb warranty. BUT unless you purchased this used from tesla (you need to look at your agreement) you’re over the 50k miles so it would be out of pocket for them to fix it. Now that I’m also out of warranty they’re more willing to “fix” stuff over just replacing it.

I’m regards to throwing itself into park at low speeds. Any chance any of the following are possibly occurring
1)not buckled
2)not buckled quickly enough
3)lifting butt off seat even slightly (like when looking g over shoulder, adjusting pants or pulling wallet out of back pocket etc)
If any of the above are happening that’s the issue.
However coupled with the other stuff I’d wonder if your harness is bad. Have you tried moving the seat up as high as it will go and just making sire everything is still plugged in. It sounds silly but something coming up clipped isn’t unheard of.
 
My 2017 Model 6 started not turning off the cabin or locking doors when i exited the vehicle. I took to Tesla service and they identified the problem as a bad senor in the drivers seat. They said the only fix is to replace the seat which is $3,500. This seem crazy to me that the senor alone can’t be replaced. Car has 60,000 miles on it so it is out of warranty. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a way (or shop) that can fix this without replacing the whole seat?
I had same issue abut they just replaced seat sensor. Mine was in warranty. Hmmm…
 
My 2017 Model 6 started not turning off the cabin or locking doors when i exited the vehicle. I took to Tesla service and they identified the problem as a bad senor in the drivers seat. They said the only fix is to replace the seat which is $3,500. This seem crazy to me that the senor alone can’t be replaced. Car has 60,000 miles on it so it is out of warranty. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a way (or shop) that can fix this without replacing the whole seat?
I just had same issue and they were able to replace sensor. It was still in warranty.
 
My 2017 Model 6 started not turning off the cabin or locking doors when i exited the vehicle. I took to Tesla service and they identified the problem as a bad senor in the drivers seat. They Nox Vidmate VLC said the only fix is to replace the seat which is $3,500. This seem crazy to me that the senor alone can’t be replaced. Car has 60,000 miles on it so it is out of warranty. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a way (or shop) that can fix this without replacing the whole seat?
this sensor can be replaced separately. I'd suggest giving Electrified Garage a call and ask their thoughts..
 
I've recently had the same/similar issue; the car going into park at slow speeds and MCU staying on after exiting the car.

Tesla said I needed a new seat base at a cost of circa £2500.

I took the seat out and found the location of the pressure sensor (circled red in pic). It's stuck to the base with adhesive.

I got the part number off the old sensor (1005424-00-A) and called Tesla to find they do in fact sell the sensor separately for £100.

I've now received and installed the new sensor. It comes preinstalled with an adhesive pad to attach to the seat base and there's just one plug to connect.

The car is now working perfectly.

View attachment 636085 View attachment 636086 View attachment 636087 View attachment 636088
May i ask: what year is this from? Anyone know what years are similar in design? I'm experiencing similar problems in a 2013.
 
I'm having the same "nothing turns off when vehicle is unoccupied" problem on my '17 MS. I'm out of warranty but I've asked Tesla for an estimate.

In looking the best I can short of pulling the drivers seat, it appears the circled plug is not attached in my car. But from the above discussion, I thought it was the yellow wire that controlled the occupancy sensor, not the circled wire..

This photo is from the above, not my car. But should that black plug be plugged in somewhere? If so, where? My yellow wire is connected.

TY!

Screenshot_20230110-162208_Free Adblocker Browser.jpg