I have the same OEM partial tubing (left & right mid-sections) in my MY. Is completing the tubing all around (top and bottom sections) worthwhile?
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
Can you take a picture? Anyone have any issues closing the trunk now that the seal is in the tubing?
Here's couple of pictures of left side of the trunk. I have no issue with closing the trunk after the install.
Attachments
I only needed to push down the hatch to close for a few time after installing 5/16 in. O.D. tubing. Then it closes itself without any problems.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
Tubing in the rear hatch seal helps quite a bit. It's not perfect, but it's the single biggest improvement you can make if you're experiencing booming or ear discomfort in a Y
I did it and it was all I needed to do plus the envelope test on the stoppers. Took care of all of it for me. Closes fine just a little bigger “thunk” when you open it.
ilovecoffee
Member
You won't make the seal worse. It's unlikely you will make the noise worse if you do it properly and take your time. It's easy to pull out the tube if you don't want it but it seems like 90% of people note some kind of improvement.
It's easy to remove if you want to. Actually the harder thing will be re-calibrating the hatch stops which is required once you install tubing. Tubing is the easy part.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
When I tried to record this on my Tesla, the buffeting/booms going over bumps were recorded, but not the way I heard it. Instead, they became shortquiet pops that sounding like static. I am guessing the mic wasn't capable of picking up that frequency and pressure, but perhaps it overwhelmed the mic (which is just a sort of pressure reading device) and that resulted in the pops.
ilovecoffee
Member
I installed 5/16" OD vinyl tubing and now my hatch won't latch on its own. I left it there for about two days and still won't close without pushing it down manually. An extremely loud popping sound happens when opening the hatch w/tubing installed.
Additionally, after re-adjusting the rubber hatch stops, they needed to be extended to ~13-14mm beyond the plastic piece. Without the tubing they were ~9-10mm. There is about a 1mm delta between the left and right sides after alignment using the envelope method.
The tubing seemed to have helped, but the problem was definitely still present.
Any ideas?
Additionally, after re-adjusting the rubber hatch stops, they needed to be extended to ~13-14mm beyond the plastic piece. Without the tubing they were ~9-10mm. There is about a 1mm delta between the left and right sides after alignment using the envelope method.
The tubing seemed to have helped, but the problem was definitely still present.
Any ideas?
The exact frequency in my car (MYP Made In Germany) is 30.8Hz. This frequency remains constant regardless of speed and road surface, indicating a structural modal resonance.
I may have said this before but this thread is 76 pages (wow). I drove with the hatch wide open and still heard the sound, so the claim of adjusting the rubber feet and it solving the problem does not compute to me. I don't get pressure/air issues, but I do hear bass resonance.
Yes, the hatch isn't related to this resonant mode. The hatch makes a difference for the "buffeting / pressure" problem, but this is a separate issue. My data shows that the addition of rigid stops and vinyl tubing significantly improves this problem - but does nothing at all for dealing with the structural resonance. This graph shows measurements of 3 setups:
1. Stock
2. + Stoppers adjusted
3. + Rigid stoppers + PVC hose in gasket
4. BMW X3 (for reference, since this car has no low frequency problem)
