Can you show the line for the rigid stops too?I should perhaps also mention that the measurements are made on a 10s section of the same stretch of Swiss Autobahn, at 77.7 mph.
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Can you show the line for the rigid stops too?I should perhaps also mention that the measurements are made on a 10s section of the same stretch of Swiss Autobahn, at 77.7 mph.
Can you show the line for the rigid stops too?
Wow, you really went all out here!Here is what I did in terms of sound proofing which helps me to reduce booming noise and road noise.
Dang, power to you guys.Here is what I did in terms of sound proofing which helps me to reduce booming noise and road noise.
In my next step I proceeded with deadening the rear doors, in the same way as I did the front doors. The difference this time is that I used 2mm Butyl instead of 2.5mm, and I also added some small strips to the plastic molding.
To be honest, I didn't expect much from this additional treatment, but I was astonished about how much this helped to reduce the low-end boominess. I hope I don't have a measurement error here, since I had my son in the front seat while performing this. However, I have had him there before, and still experienced the same boominess. After treating the rear doors, it is almost unnoticable!
I proceeded to measure at the same piece of Autobahn at 125kmh, and here are the results:
View attachment 986256
View attachment 986257
To ensure that this is not just due to my (7y old) son sitting in the front seat, I'll re-do the measurement tomorrow, so we can know for certain.
The difference is night and day. Car feels more like a Mercedes S-class than a Tesla now. I may have to do the same to my wife's Model 3 now, since she has experienced the quietness of the Model Y...1. why is your noise reduction way better? Can you hear the difference? It should be huge.
I'm also using the Umik-1 and REW. I am recording the audio into Logic first for pre-editing, to ensure that I don't get any accidental noises in the recordings.2. What did you use measuring the noise levels?
Kippis!
During the measurements I had Hankook Evo summer tires, which came with car (MY-22). I think that my installation should have bigger effect on noise level at least on higher frequencies (between 500-2000Hz) which are bothering me the most.I think that the main difference comes from the use of multiple layers inside the rear wheel wells. Although I don't have any measurement on a layer-per-layer basis, it is what I felt (and measured!) to make the biggest difference, especially in the lower (sub-1kHz) frequencies. I'm also not sure what kind of wheels you are having. I have the 21" Uberturbines with Hankook Winter tires, and they are (were) very loud.
As mentioned before the total mass/sq.meter of material I used in trunk and inner wheel wells is around 12kg/m2 with coverage of >90%, total mass added ~35kg. Your value is 17kg/m2 if I calculated correctly. What was coverage? In doors the surface density is around 6kg/m2 which corresponds to your front door values. I'm really puzzled what to do next.On these, I used 2 layers of 2mm Alubutyl, then 2 layers of 2.5mm Alubutyl over it. So in total 4 layers and 9mm of alubutyl, which is quite substantial. If you want to reduce low frequency transmission and vibrations, there is no replacement for mass. I also figured that a lot of the (low frequent) noise also originates from the rear tires. If you do a harmonic analysis of the tires at different speeds, you'll find this (for the rear wheels):
I found that the doors gave a remarkable improvement. As I wrote in my last post, treating the REAR doors is what made the biggest difference for me, for low frequencies. Not sure why but that's what the data (and my ears) say. I have treated the front doors with 2.5mm Alubytyl and 10mm of fleece mat. On the rear doors I just used 2mm Alubutyl and the 10mm fleece.
I'm also using the Umik-1 and REW. I am recording the audio into Logic first for pre-editing, to ensure that I don't get any accidental noises in the recordings.
"The best part is no part" lolThanks all for the replys so far. I am trying some of these, but probably need to be a little more scientific and space out more. It seems to take an hour for me to fully notice the symptoms are gone so need to break out the tests more.
I have Glock shooter ear protectors my wife and I tried. It seemed to prevent the pain, but for me its hard to tell because they are so tight they create some external ear discomfort.
My wife said turning off recirculate seems to help her, but I need to test.
I have noticed it seems that the air conditioner is much louder than in my model 3, but I had heard that is normal.
I went looking for the outflow valves and couldn't easily find information on them. I saw in the hitch install video by I1 that he ran hitch wiring through the vent in red below. The rubber looks so loose and the bumper cover such a pain to take off I may look into this more after more testing. while looking around I did notice that in the back passenger wheel well they didn't install 5 of 6 plastic nuts to secure the felt like material and appears another type of bolt is missing that is on the driver side. Just more signs that could point to the problem being the result of sloppy manufacturing in June.
View attachment 585436
This is the location where I put those 4 layers. I don't think the inner side will do anything at all - You have so much steel and an airgap between the wheel well and cabin there, that it won't matter at all.@azeteg you mentioned: "I think that the main difference comes from the use of multiple layers inside the rear wheel wells. " Referring your photo, this means probably that you put the damping material between the plastic wheel well trim and chassis OUTSIDE the car? I somehow got confused and thought that you put the material inside the cabin, between the interior trim and chassis. Anyway, have you done sound deadening also on on trunk side of the wheel well or just outside (plus the doors naturally)? I'll just have to find a place to finish this project, because I don't have a garage and it's -8C outside, so that's bad for the material to stick.
Ok, this area I also covered in my car without too big a difference.This is the location where I put those 4 layers. I don't think the inner side will do anything at all - You have so much steel and an airgap between the wheel well and cabin there, that it won't matter at all.
This I agree.We shouldn't underestimate the NVH engineers of top car brands.
But not this Or if they have the best engineers, their ideas on noise deadening are ignored.I'm sure that Tesla has some of the best NVH engineers out there.
No - I did not do this for the rear wheel wells. I figured that the internal treatment would be enough, which was confirmed through measurements.Ok, this area I also covered in my car without too big a difference.
But did you repeat this (small image on top right corner=outerwheel well) also rear? ->
Don't forget that they have to battle with:But not this Or if they have the best engineers, their ideas on noise deadening are ignored.\
THIS confuses me quite a bit. I really cannot explain why you would not see the same effects as I am seeing. I can assure you that the perceived difference is very real, and that I've done my best to measure this as well as I can.This is my case: before=stock, after: deadening material in trunk, hatch, rear wheel well (as in photo you posted) and all four doors. Differences should be like your stock (blue curve) and first step (green curve) but they are really insignificant and this is also confirmed by ear. I would especially hope for more damping in the area between 70-1800Hz.
No - I did not do this for the rear wheel wells. I figured that the internal treatment would be enough, which was confirmed through measurements.
That's true. This is unfortunate and Tesla is not alone with this. I noticed, when I was searching sound deadening information that a lot of manufacturers have not paid too much attention to make their cars more quiet. Especially newer models.Don't forget that they have to battle with:
Weight: Sound deadening is HEAVY. Car manufacturers count grams on fasteners, slapping a bunch of butyl all over the place does not go very well with the hunt for grams. Thus, the Pumpable you see being applied here and there in the car is carefully placed on structural resonant zones to improve the modal behavior of the body-in-white.
I believe your measurements are correct and they are confirmed by your observations. I'm just trying to understand why the noise in my car won't be affected with similar treatments.THIS confuses me quite a bit. I really cannot explain why you would not see the same effects as I am seeing. I can assure you that the perceived difference is very real, and that I've done my best to measure this as well as I can.
I think also that the butyl you used is quite similar than mine. The absorption mat I used is multilayered material and it consists of (from bottom up) elastic glue, polyurethane foam, heavy fiber, butyl rubber and wool. On doors I used little bit lighter thinner material to save the hinges, however it's also multilayer material. They both feel like very well sound absorbing materials. I haven't tried fleece but it sounds that it can absorb water or moisture and this is not an option for door sound deadening because the inside of door is "wet" volume. For example, rain water can have access there from window seal. Of course this is not as serious as in wheel well because there the moisture and road salt combination may cause rust.I would assume our butyl materials are quite similar. I have however extensively used that DV10 fleece, and it "feels" good. To my ears it sounds better / more absorptive than these domed foams I see people using. I haven't done any proper comparative measurements on this however, and I don't have any data on absorption coefficients, so it is purely based on what my ears perceive.
no did not, but adding soundproofing in sub trunk help with boominessWow, you really went all out here!
Did you also do any measurements, so you know what actually helped and what didn't do anything to improve things?
Did this all in all help to reduce the low frequency boominess?
I test drove iX50, doesn't justify extra 40K CAD, I rather spend 2k on sound proofingDang, power to you guys.
I’m not in my 20’s anywhere (when I used to strip down the whole interior of a car and do this to upgrade the sound systems).
I’d rather just buy another EV than have to do all this to a $50K Tesla. It gives me new appreciation for how well built the higher end German, Japanese, and Korean cars are with regards to comfort.