Seems quieter so far. I have enough material for another door, so I’ll try the Front passenger door when I gets a chance.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
ilovecoffee
Member
How easy was the fit? Did you have to fish it through like you did with the trunk seal? I think I will give this a go but I'd prefer not to have to tie and fish it through.
You absolutely need to fish it through.
It is a bit of a pain to pull the backer rod through as the backer rod snaps very easily.
You have to work slowly and best case put in two pieces.
The initial fish part is easy in this case, as both ends of the seal are open. They are just tucked under a cover.
I’m hoping to be able to do the passenger door soon, if it ever stops raining.
I've been following this thread recently as I've been experiencing this ear pressure/booming noise as well. I was so hopeful that the tubing fix would resolve most of the problem, but unfortunately it has not helped that much in my case. I put in a 5/16" OD silicone tube around the entire hatch gasket and adjusted the OEM stops the best I could so that it's a tight fit onto the body of the car.
I'm looking to experiment with the rigid stops (3D design Tesla Model Y Rigid Hatch Stops | Tinkercad). Do I have four of these printed out? On my car, the two lower stops look a bit different from the other two (which have a hex sleeve).
I'm looking to experiment with the rigid stops (3D design Tesla Model Y Rigid Hatch Stops | Tinkercad). Do I have four of these printed out? On my car, the two lower stops look a bit different from the other two (which have a hex sleeve).
ilovecoffee
Member
Hey did you use silicone or vinyl? They are very different in terms of rigidity. Silicone tubing is very soft and squishy. Vinyl tubing can be bent but not squished (easily).
As for the rigid hatch stops you only need 2. They are for the ones above the tail lights. The other two while important, aren't as important it seems.
Thanks, I'm going to track down a 3D printing service local to me so I can try these out. I used silicone tubing but it doesn't seem super squishy to me. Do you think it would cause no improvement at all? I can hear the trunk takes more effort to close so I'm assuming it's making a good seal. There's a good amount of sturdiness to the gasket now.
ilovecoffee
Member
Oh ok then! Interesting.
Don't forget there's a DIY method to making rigid hatch stops as well (the original way by MY-Y who came up with the idea) if you don't have a printer. But if you want to print them, Etsy also seems to have a lot of hobbyist printers that will print for you inexpensively.
Did you re-adjust the hatch stops after installing the tubing so they all grip paper tightly?
Yes, I've re-adjusted them as best as I could (paper does not slip out from any of the four stops). The annoying subwoofer-like sound from any sort of vehicle movement is draining me. I have a friend who offered to print the rigid stops for me so I'll have them on Monday. Fingers crossed!
ilovecoffee
Member
Hrm, either the hatch stops are not adjusted correctly or maybe silicone tubing somehow (although not squishy as you say) is the issue. Or perhaps you should try 3/8" OD vinyl tubing (larger diameter = more rigidity), which is what I use. The difference should be immediately noticeable if you are sensitive to it.
Looks like the bottom two stops were very loose since they were sitting on just one turn's worth of threading. I restarted and adjusted the top ones first. Still have a lot of play in the bottom ones,so I added felt pads to the trunk trim which allowed me to screw in the rubber stops a bit more so they are more stable.
I also bought the ModelYShelf.2. I'm hoping that quiets things down as well. I have some spare Dynamat laying around from another project. Is it worth going through the motion of tearing apart the trunk to add a layer to the wheel well?
ilovecoffee
Member
If by bottom ones you mean the ones NOT on the tail lights, yeah leave those for last in the calibration process. Sometimes it's tricky to get them to get a tight fit.
It's a delicate balance getting them all at the proper height, it's not a matter of simply extending them out as far as possible (which will for sure grip paper), it's about extending them as minimally as possible to get good contact.
I've seen some people put felt pads a few pages back on those bottom ones and say it helped.
I was considering the ModelYShelf until I realized I can't store stuff on TOP of it, because it moves up with the hatch door, sometimes I put things on the top, or while I'm loading it. That's why I have the Amazon/Aliexpress version. It's not a solution in and of itself though.
Butyl will help with overall low-freq road noise and dampens the harshness of road bumps, but it will not remove the pressure sensation.
But all these things together reduce the harsh low-freq sound of the ride.
Truly thankful for sharing all your knowledge and your excellent video. I dont even have a Model Y yet but Im preparing for future delivery. During my test drive of the 2023 I noticed the subwoofer like buffeting.
It seems you were more successful with 3/8? Any lessons learned from using 3/8"? My plan is to install it, close the trunk a bunch of times, let it settle and then move on to the adjustable stops.
ilovecoffee
Member
Well, I only ever used 3/8" and I never tried any other size myself. Only after installing it in a second vehicle did I notice that not all Model Ys can easily accommodate 3/8" (at least at first, the second vehicle in question did eventually close the hatch door properly with the 3/8" installed). That's why I suggested 5/16" which is only a little smaller and should have a broader application for most people.
It's also a bit trickier to install 3/8" it nearly fills up the entire gasket requiring more finesse, strength and lubricant to get it through easily. 5/16" is super simple in comparison. But by all means, try 3/8", theoretically it should provide better results because it's preventing the door from flexing even more.
(I'm not sure if you're the same person who just commented on my YouTube video around the same time, asking a very similar question so if you are, enjoy the answer twice! LOL)
Did the front passenger door as well. Backer rod is a pain.
It helps lower Road and wind noise.
ilovecoffee
Member
How much of a pain? I've got one foot out the door to Home Depot to pick some up. 3/8" right? Do you have one of those existing wind noise reduction seal kits already installed?
It just snaps really easy. Maybe 30 mins a door, if it snaps a couple times. I ended up needing three pieces.
I will still buy another roll of 3/8” backer rod to do the rear doors (since I’ve gone this far anyway).
I put a EPDM seal across off the top of the windshield and some silicone tubing behind the vertical seals in the b and c pillars as well.
The backer rod in the hatch seal and 36mm long PETG hatch stops.
I also have a lot of CLD, CCF, and MLV around the rear quarters and sub trunk.
Firewall is next for CCF/MLV.
No door seal kits. Maybe one day.
Only pics I took.
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ilovecoffee
Member
Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
Firewall?!? That's...behind quite a bit of stuff (also there's a bit of noise attenuation already)
I have a bit left, so I thought I’d see if it fits in the footwells. I’ve gotten off topic of ear pressure/pain and right into straight sound deadening.Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
Firewall?!? That's...behind quite a bit of stuff (also there's a bit of noise attenuation already)
I recently added the 3D printed stops to the hatch (thanks @ilovecoffee) I feel that has added the most sound improvement. I had previously added the 5/16" tubing to the hatch seal and while that helped, I feel the 3d printed hatch stops have been the best so far. Or maybe both combined is ideal. Will drive and listen more. The temps are warming up, so that may also have some factor.
