I installed the 5/16" vinyl tubing on my Dec built '23 MYLR, made a big difference. Was super easy to install, did it all in one shot. Sprayed lubricant in each of the little holes in the rubber rather than trying to lubricate the tube itself. Didn't seem to mess with the gaps or anything like that, closes a little tighter.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
ilovecoffee
Member
Might not be a bad idea but if someone is willing to try it, I'd go with silicone tubing (much softer) and not PVC because of the frameless windows, slamming the door against something rigid...might one day have a nasty surprise.
Someone had put an additional rubber seal in the space behind some of the existing door rubber gasket which said it helped with wind noise (on their model 3). Can't find the post now...
Hello everyone,
I'm mostly a lurker but this is a very interesting thread really appreciate the research and knowledge a lot of you have shared. I'm currently on a lease 2020 M3LR (with zero issues) and was considering a MYLR in a few months.
Just curious: Is anyone with the MYLR with 7 seats reporting these issues? Do you think the 7 seat configuration is less/more likely to have this issue?
I scheduled a test drive this Saturday. I will come back to report the outcome on the 2023 MYLR.
Thank you all
I'm mostly a lurker but this is a very interesting thread really appreciate the research and knowledge a lot of you have shared. I'm currently on a lease 2020 M3LR (with zero issues) and was considering a MYLR in a few months.
Just curious: Is anyone with the MYLR with 7 seats reporting these issues? Do you think the 7 seat configuration is less/more likely to have this issue?
I scheduled a test drive this Saturday. I will come back to report the outcome on the 2023 MYLR.
Thank you all
Unfortunately I didn't experience the booming during the test drive but as soon as I picked up my new MY LR I noticed something was off. Is the vinyl tube mod reversible? Is it easy to fish out the tube once it's completely inside the weather seal?
Any long term effects like worn power hatch mechanism since it'll be working harder to close the hatch?
Any long term effects like worn power hatch mechanism since it'll be working harder to close the hatch?
ilovecoffee
Member
Easily reversible, easy to pull out.
Well I've abused the hell out of the hatch mechanism with all sorts of testing over a year and no issues here, nor have I heard any issues nor can I predict there being any. 5/16" OD tubing also doesn't add a whole lot of pressure to the closing mechanism; maybe a little at first, but after several opens/closes and driving around it settles into place.
Went on a 1+ hour test drive- 2023 MYLR with 20" wheels (GoodYear Tires). For reference I currently drive 2020 M3LR with 19" wheels.
We did not use the radio we just focused on car sounds and suspension. We took it thru different roads, I went on a near by Navy base which has awful roads.
Theres indeed some sort of deep almost sub woofer sound during slow driving hitting small road bumps. We both felt a pressure change but both me and my wife got over it quickly didn't feel it after the first 2 minutes. Highway speed no issues felt just like the model 3.
We parked for 5 minutes and listened to the sounds. At one point when the heater kicked in, felt car vibrate (not experienced this on my M3LR).
Noticed no rattles or high pitch noises.
The suspension feels a bit rougher than the model 3 when hitting a bump nothing out of the ordinary. I will do another test drive in a few weeks.
We did not use the radio we just focused on car sounds and suspension. We took it thru different roads, I went on a near by Navy base which has awful roads.
Theres indeed some sort of deep almost sub woofer sound during slow driving hitting small road bumps. We both felt a pressure change but both me and my wife got over it quickly didn't feel it after the first 2 minutes. Highway speed no issues felt just like the model 3.
We parked for 5 minutes and listened to the sounds. At one point when the heater kicked in, felt car vibrate (not experienced this on my M3LR).
Noticed no rattles or high pitch noises.
The suspension feels a bit rougher than the model 3 when hitting a bump nothing out of the ordinary. I will do another test drive in a few weeks.
I accidentally got 3/8 tubing instead of 5/16 so the hatch wouldn't close at first. Leaving the hatch closed overnight made the tubing settle into place and it's closing fine now. But the booming is still there without a noticable improvement. Just installed the 3D printed stoppers and will test again today.
Have anyone tried aftermarket stick on spoilers like the MYP on their LR? Theoretically it should put additional downward force in the hatch to help with the movement.
Have anyone tried aftermarket stick on spoilers like the MYP on their LR? Theoretically it should put additional downward force in the hatch to help with the movement.
ilovecoffee
Member
Did you make sure the hatch stops were properly calibrated after installing the tubing? Fwiw I also have 3/8"
PecuniaNonOlet
Member
It's possible that your vehicle is missing insulation over the rear wheel wells like mine was. There are a lot of posts in this thread about installing roll-on butyl and foam in that area.
I don't think there's a way around that, there's more force pushing on the hatch when closed.
Hello,
Thank you all for this wonderful, informative threat (especially @ilovecoffee for your detailed video). I recently picked up my 2023 Model Y (built on November 2022). I don't think I notice anything that causes ear pressure, but I do want to reduce the booming bassy sound in the cabin when the car goes over the small bumps; and just the overall road noise in the highway. So this is what I gathered I need from going through this threat:
1- Install the vinyl tube:
3- I'll eventually try rigid stops after printing this Tesla Model Y Rigid Hatch Stops by darkcrow101
4- Install butyl sound deadening:
Does this summarize the ideas and list of things needed to reduce the cabin noise? Also are the above items in the right order if my main goal is to reduce the bassy booming sound inside the cabin when the car goes over small bumps, and also reduce the cabin noise in highway?
Thanks a lot again.
Thank you all for this wonderful, informative threat (especially @ilovecoffee for your detailed video). I recently picked up my 2023 Model Y (built on November 2022). I don't think I notice anything that causes ear pressure, but I do want to reduce the booming bassy sound in the cabin when the car goes over the small bumps; and just the overall road noise in the highway. So this is what I gathered I need from going through this threat:
1- Install the vinyl tube:
- 5/16" vinyl tubing: https://a.co/d/2GWU2lz
- Use some lubricant for fishing the tube in the rubber seal. Would WD-40 silicone lubricant work? https://a.co/d/4deVczT
3- I'll eventually try rigid stops after printing this Tesla Model Y Rigid Hatch Stops by darkcrow101
4- Install butyl sound deadening:
- Butyl: https://a.co/d/gobte8c
- Roller: https://a.co/d/6c56pI5
- I found these, seem specifically made for Model 3 and Y: https://a.co/d/fUPxJK3
- And this generic soundproof strip: https://a.co/d/9z8cnr9
- Any suggestion for which to use?
Does this summarize the ideas and list of things needed to reduce the cabin noise? Also are the above items in the right order if my main goal is to reduce the bassy booming sound inside the cabin when the car goes over small bumps, and also reduce the cabin noise in highway?
Thanks a lot again.
ilovecoffee
Member
Hey @esfandiar my pleasure. Although I didn't mean to make any informative threats lol
Yes that's exactly the order of operations (you have to do #2 after #1) and #5 is anytime, even now. I just used an Amazon kit like the one you linked.
If you're ever in Mississauga shoot me a PM if you want to take a ride in my car to see what to expect.
Awesome. Just wondering, how much would you say installing the sound deadening butyls helped with reducing the noise cabin? I'm a bit freaked out by opening up a week-old car! And it looks like on the right side the subwoofer has to be taken out first, right? Thank you again.
ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah well don't worry about that now. Just do one step at a time and see how it changes your perception.
Out of 100, with the things that I've done, butyl on the rear wheel wells probably contributed a 30% reduction of general low frequency road noise from bumps. So it's significant enough if it still bothers you after doing tubing and rigid hatch stops.
The subwoofer is screwed on with only 3 or 4 bolts (I forget the size) and nothing needs to be disconnected just moved out of the way. But yeah I can sympathize with unclipping interior panels on a new car. There's always the risk a clip might break (I broke one but it's not noticeable).
@esfandiar I struggled to find the "hidden" bolt for the subwoofer, but eventually got it. For me it was easier to unplug the sub and just get it out of the way when I was working. When it warms up I'm going to go back in and add some more butyl over the wheel wells. I only put down a single layer.
Removing the trim is a bit scary at first, but now I'm really good at it. I recommend getting a kit that has the trim tools in it. Don't go at this with a screwdriver.
Trying this right now. I put 3/8” backer rod into the driver door seal. It closes just the same. Will go for a drive tonight to see if I notice anything.
