Hope you strapped the tire down somehow. Otherwise it could be booming all over the cabin in an accident.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
Weight definitely have an effect on it, if you read my posts a few pages back I had like 4 bags of heavy soil and that totally minimized if not eliminated the booming. That kind of leads me to believe it's more than just the hatch (which also plays a big role).
We were on the road trip so the spare tire was laying flat & buried underneath stroller, luggages....but good point though.
Point of reference: Some friends bought a year-end Fremont-build Model Y with the OEM cargo shelf and it has almost no boominess.
I had more what I considered buffeting. I put the 5/16” tubing in and took care of most if not all of my issue. I went a bit fast (and let the remaining tubing hang too long) and had to repair a few areas of the trim (but I’m not worried it’s just the hatch trim). Adjusted the stops as well.
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Interesting. I'm sensitive to buffeting (for example when a sunroof or windows are open to a point where it resonates) and I never experienced that in my new Model Y. It's more of a deep, almost visceral and almost too low to hear booming over bumps.
I've read some (but not all) of the forum. Is it the general opinion that buffeting is from the tailgate moving up and down, and booming is from the rear tire area where ilovecoffee said to put sound deadening material?
It’s probably a mixture depending on how you interpret it? I call it buffeting since it feels like pressure in my ears and can “flutter” during certain conditions (similar to when one window is down) so they overlap. Lots of time it just feels like I need to “pop” my ears.
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PecuniaNonOlet
Member
Buffeting means the cabin is not sealed. Usually the problem is the hatch seal, and hatch movement might cause the seal to open and close rapidly.
Booming comes from all over. Personally, I agree that the worst of it is from the rear wheel wells. But a lot of people blame hatch movement. I suspect the hatch may be a bigger offender if it is not aligned correctly.
I have a January 2021 Long Range Model Y. A lot may have changed since it was made.
Booming comes from all over. Personally, I agree that the worst of it is from the rear wheel wells. But a lot of people blame hatch movement. I suspect the hatch may be a bigger offender if it is not aligned correctly.
I have a January 2021 Long Range Model Y. A lot may have changed since it was made.
The 23 Y seems the same at least with the tailgate and tailgate rubber seals. At least from what I could see when I was looking for changes to that area. I test drove a 23 Y with comfort suspension and rear shelf, I was very disappointed! It was a little smoother and a little quieter on the highway. But man, was the booming loud! I couldn't wait to get back into my 21 Y which has most of the modifications recommended in this thread! I'm starting to believe all Y's suffer from this issue to a wide varying degree! Due to Tesla's alignments not being consistent. I believe @PecuniaNonOlet you are correct about the texture of the road surface being key! Cause the road can be bumpy and the cabin won't boom, but a road with another texture that is bumpy makes the car boomy.
ilovecoffee
Member
Yeah if anyone has any theories, shoot LOL. I don't know why. Perhaps it changed the resting angle of the door against the seal so it wasn't even.
But feel free to try yourself and let us know! It takes only 5 minutes, just need an impact drill and a torx bit to nudge that latch down (don't entirely unscrew it! just loosen it and then hit it with a hammer to slightly move its position).
I have a December built Fremont Y and I would say there's a decent amount of 'buffeting' coming from the rear (like a low, bassy rumble when going over certain patches of road). I've got the 5/16 vinyl tubing to install this weekend, hoping that helps! I removed the cargo cover as it was more in the way than anything, and it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
Take a look at @ilovecoffee video. I didn’t take any pics. Just go slow and lubricate liberally. I damaged my seals by letting the tubing “hang” and the weight of the rest tore the holes. But easily repairable with RTV silicone
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GoldenBoy
high 39C, low -40C
Feed it in through the pre-existing holes on the rubber trim. Lube it up with something that won't degrade rubber if you want to push it in a continuous piece or two. I just fed mine in 6 shorter sections with no lube, but that takes significant force.
Just drove 800kms on the weekend, and realized I didn't hear buffeting at all the whole trip.
TY @ilovecoffee for spending all the investigative time and trials and saving me hours and hours of my life. I literally spent more time reading (2 hours) than I did remediating (15 minutes).
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I used silicone lubricant safe for vinyl rubber etc. and just squirted some into each of the holes around the seal. Then I inserted from top left going to left side and was able to get all the way to bottom right. Then I put in another one and it went up to meet the first one. Two pieces total. Way easier than I thought it would be.
For anyone interested in the audiology behind what we're all experiencing, my best guess is the vehicles are triggering the Acoustic Reflex.
