EV Energy Management System

[Buskeyl]

We had a house fire, so getting all new wiring, new load center and new wall connector etc. While getting a quote for a charging circuit in the rental house, the installer mentioned the field is blessed with these new EV Energy Management Systems (EMS) where the EMS monitors total draw on the panel, and if too much stuff is getting used at the same time, and draw goes above a set limit, it will automatically and temporarily disconnect the EVSE, re-enabling the systems after load reduces.

Anyone have experience with these? Recommended manufacturer and or model?

 

[Rocky_H]

Yes, I've seen several threads talking about them. The model names you can use to search would be "DCC-9" or "DCC-10". I'll include some links to threads about them below. The thing is, they are only necessary when people are REALLY tight on amp capacity in their system, and the charging circuit makes up a very large % of their residence's entire main electrical service. So things like a little condo with a 60A service, and they are having to actively manage a 20 or 30 amp circuit so it doesn't go too high when their oven or air conditioner would add up to trip the main breaker. Since you are having to do a new build, I think you would be using a large enough electric service that this wouldn't be necessary. It sounds like the electrician is trying to sell you something extra you don't need.

Has anyone install a DCC-10 EV Energy Management System with a Tesla Wall Connector?

I am currently trying to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet or possibly a Tesla Wall Connector. However, my sub panel is pretty full and cannot accommodate a NEMA 14-50 outlet. The electrician is recommending installing a DCC-10 EV Energy Management System between the sub panel and the NEMA 14-50...

teslamotorsclub.com

How to Install EV Home Charging in a Condo with DCC-9 - Tesla Motors Club

EDITOR’S NOTE: This is a sponsored post from EV charging installation specialist DCC. Home charging has many difficulties when it comes to installation in multi-residential homes, but solutions have emerged for the most common issues. Condo charging installations generally get blocked by two...

teslamotorsclub.com

Home Charging - L2

Recommended using an LMC "Load Management Controller" to work with the charger when the existing service will be overloaded. Any comments on LMC (Load Management Controller). Apparently used with multiple EVs, but what about a single residential EV? I have seen several threads on this type...

teslamotorsclub.com

14-50 in a condo complex

Helpful, thanks. Is there a specific version of the DCC I should get? I know there is one for 40A, 50A and 60A. And just to put a finer point on your explanation - if I'm using 40A, even though that's less that 80% (48A) of 60A, the DCC will know not to power the charger? Is that because the...

teslamotorsclub.com

DCC-10 Box Install With Nema 14-50 Outlet

Hello, My friend installed the DCC-10 Box with the Nema 14-50 outlet without a neutral wire. He said since only the EV Mobile charger will be plugged into the outlet and nothing else (which the DCC-10 company recommends), a neutral wire is not needed. The Mobile charger is working fine with the...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Buskeyl]

Yes, I've seen several threads talking about. The model names you can use to search would be "DCC-9" or "DCC-10". I'll include some links to threads about them below. The thing is, they are only necessary when people are REALLY tight on amp capacity in their system, and the charging circuit makes up a very large % of their residence's entire main electrical service. So things like a little condo with a 60A service, and they are having to actively manage a 20 or 30 amp circuit so it doesn't go too high when their oven or air conditioner would add up to trip the main breaker. Since you are having to do a new build, I think you would be using a large enough electric service that this wouldn't be necessary. It sounds like the electrician is trying to sell you something extra you don't need.

Has anyone install a DCC-10 EV Energy Management System with a Tesla Wall Connector?

I am currently trying to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet or possibly a Tesla Wall Connector. However, my sub panel is pretty full and cannot accommodate a NEMA 14-50 outlet. The electrician is recommending installing a DCC-10 EV Energy Management System between the sub panel and the NEMA 14-50...

teslamotorsclub.com

How to Install EV Home Charging in a Condo with DCC-9 - Tesla Motors Club

EDITOR’S NOTE: This is a sponsored post from EV charging installation specialist DCC. Home charging has many difficulties when it comes to installation in multi-residential homes, but solutions have emerged for the most common issues. Condo charging installations generally get blocked by two...

teslamotorsclub.com

Home Charging - L2

Recommended using an LMC "Load Management Controller" to work with the charger when the existing service will be overloaded. Any comments on LMC (Load Management Controller). Apparently used with multiple EVs, but what about a single residential EV? I have seen several threads on this type...

teslamotorsclub.com

14-50 in a condo complex

Helpful, thanks. Is there a specific version of the DCC I should get? I know there is one for 40A, 50A and 60A. And just to put a finer point on your explanation - if I'm using 40A, even though that's less that 80% (48A) of 60A, the DCC will know not to power the charger? Is that because the...

teslamotorsclub.com

DCC-10 Box Install With Nema 14-50 Outlet

Hello, My friend installed the DCC-10 Box with the Nema 14-50 outlet without a neutral wire. He said since only the EV Mobile charger will be plugged into the outlet and nothing else (which the DCC-10 company recommends), a neutral wire is not needed. The Mobile charger is working fine with the...

teslamotorsclub.com

Thanks foe the info. He was quoting it as recommended, and for the rental house. The rental house has 200 amp service and the breaker box is totally full. So my guess is he is playing it safe. The insurance already told us they'd prefer to pay for my supercharging and not install a circuit in the house due to liability (Thank you Lawyers) . So my interest shifted to our house, This info helped provide me more context, so thanks! Still want to read about them, so thanks there too!

So is there a rule of thumb for how much load you can stuff in a circuit breker panel before you need a service upgrade and a new box? With 200A of service, are you supposed to stop once the sum of all the breakers on that box hit's 200, or can you "over-subscrible" a box, knowing that in most cases, most of those circuits are drawing less then the limit of the breaker. I assume the idea is the main breaker should never need to trip..

Lee

 

[Rocky_H]

The insurance already told us they'd prefer to pay for my supercharging and not install a circuit in the house due to liability (Thank you Lawyers) .

Buncha morons. Then a house shouldn't have ANY circuits.

So is there a rule of thumb for how much load you can stuff in a circuit breker panel before you need a service upgrade and a new box? With 200A of service, are you supposed to stop once the sum of all the breakers on that box hit's 200, or can you "over-subscrible" a box, knowing that in most cases, most of those circuits are drawing less then the limit of the breaker. I assume the idea is the main breaker should never need to trip..

It's called a "load calculation". There are plenty of those forms online you can Google for, where it wouldn't have to have an electrician do it necessarily, but if it's questionable, then electrician should do one anyway. It's basically filling out a questionnaire about your house. It will ask things like how many rooms there are, how much square footage, and then multiplying that by some % figures to get general amp numbers for the basic lights and outlets. And then it will have you list any large draw appliances, so you list air conditioner, clothes dryer, oven, jacuzzi heater, etc. that are big draws, and then you get some total of the number of amps considered "used".

So you use that number from the load calculation as the number of amps used out of the 200A service you have--not just adding up the numbers on the breakers. So when you have that, and the load calculation says you are using, for example, 160 out of 200A, then that means you have 40A leftover to add another circuit.