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External Amplifier adapter for Tesla

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I'd like to see something like this... (as you have above)

In addition:

I was actually planning to tap just the sub sound wires for my install. (just 1 10" sub). and use that to the hi-level in on my amp.
Thus sending what would have gone to the OEM sub, to the new sub... I'd like a connector for that if one could be made...?
 
You just want the small connector that goes from the harness to the sub in the back? I saw someone post a link to the connector for that at a some point, but honestly, you could either:

Clip the wires and use spade connectors.

Disconnect the spade connectors from the sub (requires unscrewing the sub from the box) and put a female end on your amp wire and connect it that way, leaving the original harness in place. This is fully reversible, simple and fast. It's the same process I used to swap out the stock 8" for the Sound Qubed 8" sub.
 
I was going to just unplug at the back of the sub, but you are right, one could tap where the OEM sub goes inside the box. Seems easier to build a plug the equivalent of the sub box though...
I had the stuff on order. a JL Audio box w/a sub built in, and canceled at the last minute...
 
Thought you all might find the attached diagram of my custom system helpful. I started with the standard audio system (not premium). My system derives everything from the line level outputs for the front two midrange drivers and I definitely get full range audio (my sub and sealed box configuration goes down to ~30Hz).

Really wish the head unit had a digital output, the purist in me is annoyed that there is a lot of digital and analog conversions happening in the signal path. Signal path: digital audio source (e.g. iPhone, Slacker, USB) converted to analog for line level outputs > analog to digital conversion at Mosconi DSP > digital to analog conversion for line level outputs > amplifier.
 

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Thought you all might find the attached diagram of my custom system helpful. I started with the standard audio system (not premium). My system derives everything from the line level outputs for the front two midrange drivers and I definitely get full range audio (my sub and sealed box configuration goes down to ~30Hz).

Really wish the head unit had a digital output, the purist in me is annoyed that there is a lot of digital and analog conversions happening in the signal path. Signal path: digital audio source (e.g. iPhone, Slacker, USB) converted to analog for line level outputs > analog to digital conversion at Mosconi DSP > digital to analog conversion for line level outputs > amplifier.
Awww man I can't see the diagram good, I don't have the harness, so I'm pretty much rigging it up, do you have a pic of the back of your mcu hooked up
 
Its not one plug or harness, its a few....Muzzman posted the wiring diagram in the other thread, you can see it there. There are a number of plugs/harnesses coming out of the MCU that are audio system related, some going to the UHFS amp, some running speakers directly. But basically there are 12 separate speaker level channels in the UHFS system....to do a proper aftermarket setup retaining (most of) the stock speakers will require at least 9 channels. Im installing a 10 channel DSP processor/amp in order to gain complete control over the system.

Now you could take the route LH has done and just amp the woofers in the car....you could do that with a 5 channel amp, and all the connections are at the external UHFS amp...pretty standard stuff... BUT we don't know for sure what the MCU will do if the amp is not there.....from what I've seen with my LH installs I think it will turn off the low level outputs so you will end up tapping the signal wires behind the MCU anyway. Sooooooo at least for me, if I'm going to go that far I might as well go all the way.

Ive been researching this for a while and have the parts inbound now for my aftermarket install BUT I was an installer for 15 years and have done a number of higher end install in my cars over the years so what is DIY for me is NOT RECOMMENDED for most here. BUT assuming things go well with my install I may make a post about it so that others with some mechanical skill and audio knowledge can follow my lead.....and those without the skill or knowledge can have something to point their installers towards as a target.

Im a couple weeks out from my install right now, waiting for parts. Once Im in there I should have A LOT more concrete info.


For a non UHFS car.....things are a bit simpler as there is no external amp and the front channels are 2 way instead of 3way.....and have passive crossovers.....so in your case you could get away with a much more conventional 5 channel amp install, all the connections tapped into behind the MCU.

There are a TON of if/then/but caveats with all of the above.....and multiple ways to approach upgrading this system, so if you know car audio go ahead and post about it, but if you don't, I would really suggest you consult a professional installer.
I wasn't sure if there is any update on your install (UHFS), I'm trying to figure out where to tap (and or find a harness w/o cutting/splicing into existing wiring) for input signal (going into an aftermarket DSP) and out to the 3way front speakers location.
 
As per a discussion in another thread with regards to making a "generic" adapter to allow an external amp to interface with the Tesla wiring harness, I am making this thread to foster discussion and to get an idea of how many people might be interested in this.

I have an RFQ out to one of the companies I use to make custom cables for a quote on how much each cable would be. But judging from my past experiences, the price is drastically affected by the quantity.

I'd also like to hear discussion and ideas on what might be required or desired in terms of what the final product would look like.

For reference, it would have this receptacle:

MCP SUB ASSY 32 POS HSG REC: 1534180-2 AMP

attached to bare wires, allowing you to wire up any combination of custom amp(s) to the Tesla wiring harness. This adapter would also allow you to connect to the fill speakers and not just the midwoofers + sub.

Any update to your inquiry since I'm trying to source harness from used instrument panel bundle (e.g., 1004422-02-H or 1004422-03-M) on Ebay but I don't know if it contains all the wires I need for a premium system?
 
I wasn't sure if there is any update on your install (UHFS), I'm trying to figure out where to tap (and or find a harness w/o cutting/splicing into existing wiring) for input signal (going into an aftermarket DSP) and out to the 3way front speakers location.
This was a project/thread from 5-6 years ago. I DID complete it, built a harness with all the mating plugs so no splicing, and ran it for years through a helix DSP/amp. But that was a couple cars, dozens of projects, and too long ago for me to remember the details!
 
This was a project/thread from 5-6 years ago. I DID complete it, built a harness with all the mating plugs so no splicing, and ran it for years through a helix DSP/amp. But that was a couple cars, dozens of projects, and too long ago for me to remember the details!
Thank you and if you were to sell the car (assuming you still have it) and reverse the install then please pm me and I'll buy the harness from you..lol.
 
I added a sub to my 2013 Model S that didn't have UHFS. I tapped into the connector to the amp that was missing from my car and used the same space to fit in a Subwoofer amp. Here's the complete write-up and photos: Sub-woofer and Amplifier Installation – TeslaTap At some point, I think Tesla stopped using the same wiring harness for all cars, so that connector may not appear on later cars without UHFS.

I also upgraded the rear door speakers: Upgrading Rear Door Speakers – TeslaTap

Overall, I was happy with the results. I should have bought UHFS (which was only $1K at the time), but having ordered the car 4 years earlier in 2009, I didn't know what to expect from UHFS as there was no way to listen or test it out.
 
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