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External speaker fault with latest update?

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Cheaper.

$16 + $5 shipping.


Installed mine last week . Works as expected, quality is good. They were out of stock for a while, but it seems they have few now.

s-l1600.jpg
 
When I get around to it, I think I will use a 3-position SPDT switch: one to direct the signal to the speaker, the other to the resister. Put the switch somewhere under the hood. This way, I can easily disable or enable PWS. Ideally (but I'm too lazy to go through the trouble), the switch is routed to inside the cabin.
 
My PWS wiring is one white and one bluish/gray. Does anyone know the polarity? Which is positive and which is negative. I can't find any wiring diagrams in the service manual. Thanks.

Edit: Found the diagrams. White is positive.
 
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Interested on doing the same, please post instructions / pictures when your done.

Did it, made a post.
 
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Megaohm Motorsports has come out with a solution it looks like. They just launched their PWS Bypass kit, and it looks like they have been making them for Ford for sometime now. More expensive than DIY of course but it doesn't get any easier than buying this and plugging it in.

Tesla PWS Bypass Module
Installed it this morning. Aside from the fact that it says the speaker is on the passenger side (mine is on the driver's side) was pretty easy and fast. If I didn't have to pull off both fender liners it would have taken 5 minutes. I'm on 69.25 and no immediate warnings after a short drive.
 
I don't mind it, however I live at an apartment complex where 10+ other people sleep exactly on top of my parking spot in which I always have to back into.
I really really dislike bothering them with that UFO sound at 3-4 in the morning and since almost everyone sleeps with their windows open they always hear me.
Now, if it were a white noise sound, people wouldn't mind. However it's neither that nor a "normal" ICE sound, so the uniqueness of the sound really makes it stand out.

This is why I unplugged mine. Now I actually get this, so I suppose the next step is to figure out the resistance of the speaker and build something that plugs into it and spoofs the speaker. Either that or tape the speaker until it's silent enough.

View attachment 854444
That sounds easy enough to do with a volt meter. I havent looked closely at the speaker, but could you just wrap foam around it really tight and muffle the sound?
 
That sounds easy enough to do with a volt meter. I havent looked closely at the speaker, but could you just wrap foam around it really tight and muffle the sound?

@Nikooo777 already implemented his bypass later this in this thread. It's a 4 ohm speaker. The speaker cannot be wrapped in foam because it mounts flush with the bottom panel. One could 1) dismount the speaker, add a layer of cover over the speaker and remount, or 2) use tape on the outside of bottom panel.

I initially did #2 with Gorilla duct tape. I chose it because it's thick and has good adhesion. It worked very well--held up to road speed and muffled the noise. It is also easily reversible without having to pull fender liner.

I later implemented this solution because I want to be able to enable the sound in high pedestrian areas and use the PA or Boombox feature. Now it's a matter of flipping a switch.
 
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@Nikooo777 already implemented his bypass later this in this thread. It's a 4 ohm speaker. The speaker cannot be wrapped in foam because it mounts flush with the bottom panel. One could 1) dismount the speaker, add a layer of cover over the speaker and remount, or 2) use tape on the outside of bottom panel.

I initially did #2 with Gorilla duct tape. I chose it because it's thick and has good adhesion. It worked very well--held up to road speed and muffled the noise. It is also easily reversible without having to pull fender liner.

I later implemented this solution because I want to be able to enable the sound in high pedestrian areas and use the PA or Boombox feature. Now it's a matter of flipping a switch.

Yea, I somehow didn't notice this thread was 5 pages deep and answered without reading it all. Whoops! (and thanks)
 
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There is a low "staticy" sound when creeping around in Drive, but it goes away at a certain speed.
Yes this. Even worse now on 2023.12.5 update. The low sound is louder and now is heard while driving at speeds of 5-25 mph. Bloody annoying tbh.

I have to disable this pws as it’s now affecting my state drive. Any suggestions other than disconnecting the wire? Maybe just puncture the speaker and it still thinks it’s connected 🤷🏽‍♂️
 
Yes this. Even worse now on 2023.12.5 update. The low sound is louder and now is heard while driving at speeds of 5-25 mph. Bloody annoying tbh.

I have to disable this pws as it’s now affecting my state drive. Any suggestions other than disconnecting the wire? Maybe just puncture the speaker and it still thinks it’s connected 🤷🏽‍♂️

See my post #93 above External speaker fault with latest update?, or directly to my post on the PWS mod My on/off switchable PWS mod "for off-road use only"

My next idea is to find a wire that shows 12V either when the car is in Park or Drive/Reverse. With it, I can use a relay to trigger the bypass to activate while in Drive/Reverse and enable the speaker while in Park, which would allow PA and Boombox to work. Short of sniffing the CAN bus, I have yet to find a simple signal wire for this purpose.
 
See my post #93 above External speaker fault with latest update?, or directly to my post on the PWS mod My on/off switchable PWS mod "for off-road use only"

My next idea is to find a wire that shows 12V either when the car is in Park or Drive/Reverse. With it, I can use a relay to trigger the bypass to activate while in Drive/Reverse and enable the speaker while in Park, which would allow PA and Boombox to work. Short of sniffing the CAN bus, I have yet to find a simple signal wire for this purpose.
What about using the Signature Lights power for this?

Model Y has a series of LED lights along the rim of the headlights, also referred to as "signature" lights. These lights automatically turn on whenever Model Y is powered on and a drive mode (Drive or Reverse) is engaged.
 
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See my post #93 above External speaker fault with latest update?, or directly to my post on the PWS mod My on/off switchable PWS mod "for off-road use only"

My next idea is to find a wire that shows 12V either when the car is in Park or Drive/Reverse. With it, I can use a relay to trigger the bypass to activate while in Drive/Reverse and enable the speaker while in Park, which would allow PA and Boombox to work. Short of sniffing the CAN bus, I have yet to find a simple signal wire for this purpose.
Thx bud. Tbh I just opened up the whee well, ripped out the wires from the connector, separated both and wrapped with tape. No fault or messages for 1 hour since. 🤷🏽‍♂️. Took me all of 3 min.

God I miss the full stealth quietness or reverse and forward!
 
What about using the Signature Lights power for this?

I had to Google for what Signature Lights are. Thanks for the education. It's a great idea, but the headlights have 3 wires--V+, ground, and [I presume] signal/control--used to turn on/off elements of the headlight, aim, and Matrix if so equipped and enabled. There are no separate wires for Signature Lights and I rather not crack the headlights for this. If you have any other thoughts, please do share. Thanks again.