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Final Decision: Is Going from AWD to P Worth $9,946-$12,946?

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I would say no, but consider the stealth performance for $5k less. I was able to upgrade from my MR to a stealth P for less than what your upgrade will cost, but I had to sell private party. For the me the jump from a MR to a P- was worth no more than $10k, so when the math lined up to where that was possible I jumped on it and have no regrets. I don't think the upgrade would have been worth it for more than that, and I think the value proposition is significantly less when moving from an AWD to a P. Your car now already has the range, AWD and low 4 second 0-60 time, so the only things you're gaining are faster acceleration (cool), higher top speed (seriously who cares?), track mode (again cool but who cares), 20" wheels and low profile tires (suck big time for weight, rolling resistance, likely damage and flat tires), better brakes (who cares if you're not on the track), aluminum pedals and spoiler (who cares). The only advantage I see is the faster acceleration, but your existing car is already fast. The delta between the two options needs to be a lot smaller for it to make sense IMO unless you truly won't notice, miss or care about the cash that it costs to upgrade - and I know there are people who fall into that bucket and that's cool too.
 
I would say no, but consider the stealth performance for $5k less. I was able to upgrade from my MR to a stealth P for less than what your upgrade will cost, but I had to sell private party. For the me the jump from a MR to a P- was worth no more than $10k, so when the math lined up to where that was possible I jumped on it and have no regrets. I don't think the upgrade would have been worth it for more than that, and I think the value proposition is significantly less when moving from an AWD to a P. Your car now already has the range, AWD and low 4 second 0-60 time, so the only things you're gaining are faster acceleration (cool), higher top speed (seriously who cares?), track mode (again cool but who cares), 20" wheels and low profile tires (suck big time for weight, rolling resistance, likely damage and flat tires), better brakes (who cares if you're not on the track), aluminum pedals and spoiler (who cares). The only advantage I see is the faster acceleration, but your existing car is already fast. The delta between the two options needs to be a lot smaller for it to make sense IMO unless you truly won't notice, miss or care about the cash that it costs to upgrade - and I know there are people who fall into that bucket and that's cool too.
IMO, if you have no intention of ever going to the track then the stealth is a no-brainer. You can get a nicer set of aftermarket wheels and a spoiler for less than 5k.
 
IMO, if you have no intention of ever going to the track then the stealth is a no-brainer. You can get a nicer set of aftermarket wheels and a spoiler for less than 5k.

I would say it's worth it, track or not if you want sports car handling and not just a straight-line rocket. $5k for sporty suspension, rims, high performance tires and better brakes seems like quite a good deal. Also, personally I'd rather have suspension tuned by Tesla than some aftermarket company that would have nowhere near the expertise Tesla has in-house.
 
I've had my P3 for 3 weeks now (bought 2018 used). The answer is YES, YES, YES a thousand times over if you can afford it. I've been in the car business in some form or another for most of my life. I've given gear heads a ride in my car and they can't believe how fast it is. the most common responses upon take off are "I read the 0-60 times but I didn't think it would feel that fast" or "this feels like being on a roller coaster" or "Holy Sh*t"

If you aren't a car person then maybe that won't matter. I'm extremely happy I went used P3 versus just a brand new 3 AWD.
 
Keep in mind your cost to switch between AWD -> P is a lot less now than it was when I had to do the same calculus.

At the time of my order: AWD was $53k, P3D with Performance Upgrades set was $69k which was a $16,000 difference. Now you can do the same thing WITH A NEW CAR for only $12k.

Now the question is whether the performance upgrades and 0-60 from 4.2s to ~3.3s is worth it to you. Plus all the other bling (Track Mode, upgrades).
 
Keep in mind your cost to switch between AWD -> P is a lot less now than it was when I had to do the same calculus.

At the time of my order: AWD was $53k, P3D with Performance Upgrades set was $69k which was a $16,000 difference. Now you can do the same thing WITH A NEW CAR for only $12k.

Now the question is whether the performance upgrades and 0-60 from 4.2s to ~3.3s is worth it to you. Plus all the other bling (Track Mode, upgrades).

Was it worth it for you? How old/how many miles did your first car have?
How did you stomach the 16K upcharge?
 
I would say it's worth it, track or not if you want sports car handling and not just a straight-line rocket. $5k for sporty suspension, rims, high performance tires and better brakes seems like quite a good deal. Also, personally I'd rather have suspension tuned by Tesla than some aftermarket company that would have nowhere near the expertise Tesla has in-house.
I don't think the extra suspension we have is much better than stock. The serious racers are all upgrading. Bigger brakes are pointless on the street.
 
Lookup (or get an agent to) to see if there are any 'Demo' models available, you can get $10k off with a couple of thousand miles.

You would then be trading a slightly used AWD for a slightly used (but full warranty) Performance for approx Zero net change and very little downside.
 
So, a different perspective - and one which is useful for people who're usually frugal/who made their money a hard way.

Is the car making you unhappy/miserable, relative to the performance model?

If so, is that misery worth 10K to you?
 
Was it worth it for you? How old/how many miles did your first car have?
How did you stomach the 16K upcharge?

A couple of things:
  • I never swapped cars as I made change during initial ordering.
  • Frugal me went with the RWD (look at my order history in my sig).
  • Wife convinced me that if I didn't get Performance I'd always wonder "what if..."
  • Part of the upsell was Free Unlimited Supercharging at the time
  • It ended up being more like $11k difference because FUSC -$5k refund etc. :oops:
I still love the Performance model and would order another performance model if I got into an accident etc. Whether the price difference is worth it to you depends on how you'd perceive it. I never owned an AWD model but test drove an RWD model and the performance hugely different.
 
A couple of things:
  • I never swapped cars as I made change during initial ordering.
  • Frugal me went with the RWD (look at my order history in my sig).
  • Wife convinced me that if I didn't get Performance I'd always wonder "what if..."
  • Part of the upsell was Free Unlimited Supercharging at the time
  • It ended up being more like $11k difference because FUSC -$5k refund etc. :oops:
I still love the Performance model and would order another performance model if I got into an accident etc. Whether the price difference is worth it to you depends on how you'd perceive it. I never owned an AWD model but test drove an RWD model and the performance hugely different.

Hey Jedi,

Just curious, what was the price delta from your very first reservation to your final P3D+?
If I'm reading your sig correct, you first reserved an AWD to RWD to P3D to P3D+. Did you take delivery of any of the vehicles or did you keep configuring? The AWD to P3D+ was 11K after your 5K refund?
 
Hey Jedi,

Just curious, what was the price delta from your very first reservation to your final P3D+?
If I'm reading your sig correct, you first reserved an AWD to RWD to P3D to P3D+. Did you take delivery of any of the vehicles or did you keep configuring? The AWD to P3D+ was 11K after your 5K refund?

Correct. Those were all configuration changes based on Tesla options and price changes throughout that period. The first "release" P3D+ price change didn't occur until October by bundling the premium upgrade package. They did change the price once prior to release.
 
I have a great contact for inside sales advisor. They have waaaay more visibility into what’s available. The stuff on the site you see is what they couldn’t sell quickly when it came available. OP, PM me if you want his contact info. He got me in a MX P100D demo 2018 loaded for 80k. That would never have made it to the site.
 
So I did the final calculations and Tesla bumped up their Trade in Value.
The P OTD is $60,821. I paid $54,038 for my AWD.
Tesla is offering 46K for the VH and then with the $1875 tax credit, value is a total of $47875.
Cost to upgrade is = $12,946

IF MD passes more funds for the Excise Credit then I can claim $3,000 pushing the total VH value to $50,875. Cost to upgrade would be $9,946.

What do you guys think. From a low end of $9,946 to a high end of $12,946, is this upgrade worth it at this price range?
I have it on private party site but so far I have a bunch of deadbeats who's offering 40K, 42K, etc.
Needless to say, longer I hold onto the car the more it depreciates so I rather just come to a decision sooner than later.
Thanks in advance for all the helps Tesla peeps.

I have the Performance model and my suggestion is that you do NOT do the trade right now. If you were deciding on the initial purchase and you had the cash, then I think the Performance model is a great deal.

Best of luck with whatever you decide !
 
Do you max out your 401k? ($19000 per year). How about your Roth IRA ($6000 per year, and you can backdoor if you make over the income limit)? Do you have 6-12 months of expenses saved as cash? Make more than you spend consistently? Children (if any) well taken care of?

If the above are true, and you'd rather have the car than whatever else $12k could buy you (a few very nice vacations, a motorcycle, a new deck or patio, etc), then go for it! Once those financial essentials are taken care of I find less and less value with saving any more money.

This is only my opinion. I made the switch (traded in a LR RWD for a P+).
 
Do you max out your 401k? ($19000 per year). How about your Roth IRA ($6000 per year, and you can backdoor if you make over the income limit)? Do you have 6-12 months of expenses saved as cash? Make more than you spend consistently? Children (if any) well taken care of?

If the above are true, and you'd rather have the car than whatever else $12k could buy you (a few very nice vacations, a motorcycle, a new deck or patio, etc), then go for it! Once those financial essentials are taken care of I find less and less value with saving any more money.

This is only my opinion. I made the switch (traded in a LR RWD for a P+).

Great advice and well written !!