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Flood Damaged Model S

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I came up with 207 volts at either side of the fuse and used the bottom of the pack as ground.
There should NOT be voltage between any HV cable/ part and the chassis. The HV system should be completely isolated. Note that digital meter are so high impedance, that they can pick up minor leakage. Correct way to measure voltage is from HV + to HV - with a properly rated meter.

The dash also says I have 93 miles of battery left. Is this a good sign?
It is good that dash is alive. But the data it is displaying may be the last value before the flooding.
 
I lived in Ocean Park, Puerto Rico about 50 meters from the beach for many years. There dealing with salt air and the occasional storm surge is a way of life. I would even have to take apart my computer and VCR periodically to clean the boards of corrosion as salt air can be almost as bad as salt water. For our cars, we slathered on lots of dielectric grease and pressure washed them often with lots of fresh water. So the way I see it, living on the beach, especially where waves come crashing in, is probably about the same as driving a salt water flood damaged vehicle.

That said, I've noticed that Tesla doesn't use anything like dielectric grease on either the front or the back of their connections. Some have gaskets, but many have no protection from water, especially from the back where the wires attach.
 
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Good question scaesare, I saw one other salvage MS with the same issue where the charge port door is melted. As you can see in the picture, this one is all bubbled up. I disassembled this and the tail light and the damage is pretty much only to the red reflective portion. I peeled it off and the black plastic beneath doesn't look melted at all. The rest of the charge port appears to be fine. I might guess that the black plastic around the charge port is much more resistant to heat then the reflector. Anyone have any idea why this happened?
 
While the water level was very high, this is freshwater damage, not saltwater. I have tasted it three times now.o_O The deposits from the water are mud and debris, not salt. Although Tesla would never go along with it, this car would be a great testimonial to Tesla's quality and engineering. This car sat for 9 weeks without being cleaned or properly dried out. Yet most of the circuit boards have had no corrosion. The body according to Tesla is 98% aluminum, and on this car, most of it looks to be in perfect condition. The undercarriage is still shiny aluminum. Rubber, glass and plastic are like new. Even the gears in the gearbox which was filled with water had no rust (I ran a scope inside). To my amazement, after drying out and cleaning up most of the 12 volt circuits, I charged and hooked up the 12 volt battery and the dash and center display turned on, the door handles presented, the sound system, browser, 3G and most 12 volt systems appear to be working well. Up to that point, I thought this was probably going to be my parts car.
 
The worst damage so far seems to be charger and high voltage box under the rear seat. There is one picture included at IMGUR above and shows some rust near what is probably a transistor. This is the before picture, and I was able to clean it up pretty well, but these three boards can't be taken out as they are permanently stuck in "flubber." Yes, I think that's Tesla's real secret is that they run on flubber. How else could they provide free supercharging.

Seriously, if you save a small chunk of flubber, it works great for keeping bolts from falling off a socket or star key.
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Here is an update at where I'm at now:

It makes a big difference whether it is salt water or fresh water. If you have watched Car Guru's Youtube videos, everything in his car has an incredible amount of corrosion. Even his aluminum parts were highly oxidized. On my MS most of the aluminum looks brand new.

The worst damage that I have found so far was to charger and HV box under the back seat. It retained water -- for 9 weeks. Water got in but did not drain or evaporate. There was some corrosion in both boxes, but it cleaned up OK.

Next, the inverter and gearbox were both full of water. I drained them, and dried them but haven't disassembled them. I ran a scope in each one and the gearbox looks perfect, no rust. The inverter's boards don't have much corrosion, but the screws holding the boards in are very rusted. Each of these has a hole in the top, but no drain hole. On the inverter, I drilled a small drain hole on the bottom (per Ingineer) and another so I could feed in the endoscope. I have no idea if the inverter will work, as it sat in water for 9 weeks, but at least it is dry now.

The HV box on the passenger side of the frunk also leaked and retained about an inch of water. However the board looks great. No deposits. The one on the drivers side, DC to DC box I think, was dry and looks great.

The battery did take on quite a bit of water. My project over the last few days has been taking it out. It had about 1.5 gallons of water in it. I finally got the cover off today. So far looks great in comparison to Car Guru's salt water damaged pack. I'll post this in more detail later as I need some help from the forum on this. But I can back Richie up in saying, Tesla's batteries are not waterproof! I was really hoping it was.

On the 12 volt system, the worst boards were the Body Control Unit and the Driver's seat circuit board. Both sit low and the boxes retained a bit of water. These had the most corrosion, but cleaned up OK. Most of the 12 volt system seems to be working. I have both screens working, sound system, 3G, maps, three door handles present themselves, lights and turn signals all work.

As of yet, the lower power seat functions don't work (which makes getting the seats out really difficult). The upper seat and heat work fine. I thought the seat was on fire for a minute, but then my son pointed out that the heat was set to level 3. (I thought it was a driver profile for driver #3). GPS thinks the car is in Houston still, but maybe if I left the garage it would adjust.

Headlights and heater/AC I think involve HV, so I haven't got them to work yet. I also don't yet have a key FOB, which you probably know, is another can of worms. That and the belief that this was saltwater got me a big discount. Also the "unknown" odometer scared people, but it turned out to be 1,449 miles so that was another bonus.

Anyway, I'm still working through things, and not having the key FOB can be a good thing, as I am being methodical in checking out each system, before I try to take it to a supercharger.

The Interior cleaned up well, except for the seats and the tufts in the rear seat. I have peeled off most of the upholstery. I can't get the stains out of the leather in the seats. The cushions retain water and won't dry on there own, especially with the upholstery on. To get the water out, I have been putting towels on top and bottom and walking on them and then I keep a fan on them. . I

But overall, at this point, I have yet to find one fried circuit board or even a blown fuse. I am thinking that Tesla's system knew to shut itself down before any damage was done. The only thing that had to be replaced so far was the lens to the charge port that had melted. But I'll keep you posted, as I doubt that over two months of standing water on many of the components had to do some unseen damage.
 
High water mark here is quite high

View attachment 264568

You call that high? Mine was flooded to the roof line! :p

Seriously I hope you are kidding about tasting the water. It ain’t freshwater....it’s sewage water. I cut my foot in the first 5 minutes of demoing my house and it still hasn’t fully healed 3+ months later. All that retained water in cushions etc is a toxic stew. I would be concerned about trying to dry them out vs replacing any fabric, cushion etc that you can’t sanitize. Some places had it worse than others, but around us the sewage level was so high they had to consider permanently razing some major buildings.
 
Sorry for your loss, I know how traumatic hurricanes can be. I lived in Puerto Rico during Hugo and Georges and in South Florida for Wilma and Katrina and a year ago Hermine hit here in Tallahassee and our electricity was out 3 weeks. In Puerto Rico, after Georges we didn't have running water for 3 weeks, and the electricity took 8 weeks to get back. Wilma took our roof off so everything in the house got soaked.. Anyway, It's traumatic and takes time to get over. In each case, we didn't have insurance, so we had not choice but to clean up the mess ourselves and re-use whatever we could.

In this case of the MS70, the interior was very moldy, especially the leather. First we washed the car with lots of freshwater. Then, I went in with a mask and gloves and dowsed the interior with several bottles of concrobium. I took removed the carpet backing (jute) from the car and washed it in the washing machine with clorox. Then dried it in the dryer for a bit, then gave it several more coats of concrobium and let it dry between coats. The carpet I had to wash in place as I have yet to get the front seats out. I used first a mild clorox solution (10%) and then followed with carpet cleaner the next day.

The seats had to have the upholstery peeled off. I finally resorted to washing them in the washing machine as well. I hung them to dry inside out, and have given them several coats of Concrobium.

As I mentioned, the seat cushions have to have the water absorbed out of them using towels and stepping on them repeatedly after the upholstery is off. This has taken days, and in between I spray the cushions with concrobium and bleach spray. Then dry them with a fan.

Concrobium is great for mold and the smell, but it leaves a white residue so it's better used on the foam cushions and the backing of the carpet and upholstery, not the front side. Clorox or antibacterial wipes are great for parts that can't be taken out. However, I wouldn't use either on circuit boards, connectors or wiring.

As for the flood water being "sewage," flood water is never clean. Houston had 60 inches of rain, so logically, the sewage would be a very small percent of that. And there's nothing that a little Clorox won't kill. In Puerto Rico, when we didn't have water for 3 weeks, they said we could drink pond or river water, so long as we added 7 drops of Clorox per gallon. Nasty, but that's what they said and that's what we sometimes had to do.

I am hoping to eventually replace the interior, however, at present I am trying to see what I can save, fix or repair. By the insurance company's logic, everything had to be replaced. To replace every part of a Tesla would probably cost around $200,000 or more, but Tesla won't sell the parts to people like me. Even people who buy new Tesla's directly from the company, aren't allowed to buy many parts.

I went to Cuba last year, and I can now relate to what Cubans have to do, as the US still won't sell them auto parts, but somehow for 60 years, they have kept their cars running.
 
View attachment 265545 On to the battery pack. Has anyone ever repaired the cells in one of these? I have 11 cells that measured in the low 20s, one with 0.1 volts, one with 7.5, one with 3.5 volts. Any advice?

The module voltage is 6x cell voltage. Nominal is 3.5 (I think) x6 = 21V, so the ones in the 20s are low, but potentially ok. The other 3 are not so much with the happiness. Suggest replacing with modules from e-bay or @wk057 's store Products | HSR Motors or the ev places that part out Tesla packs. Jason might even precondition the modules to match the other 11, but 3 modules could run $4k or so.

Edit: Just reread, depending which 'low 20' you mean, those modules look good.
 
The module voltage is 6x cell voltage. Nominal is 3.5 (I think) x6 = 21V, so the ones in the 20s are low, but potentially ok. The other 3 are not so much with the happiness. Suggest replacing with modules from e-bay or @wk057 's store Products | HSR Motors or the ev places that part out Tesla packs. Jason might even precondition the modules to match the other 11, but 3 modules could run $4k or so.

Edit: Just reread, depending which 'low 20' you mean, those modules look good.
9 are 21.x and one is 19.7 volts. I'm taking out the module that's 0.1 shortly to take a look at it.