Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Pyro Fuse Fuss

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
What constitutes "Old"?
What constitutes "New"?

Battery powered fuses started during 2015. Then at 2018 they introduced a new self-powered fuse that doesn't require servicing. So only 2015-2018 cars should be affected.

There are exceptions.. if drive battery has been replaced under warranty, it's very likely the pyro fuse is newer than the car
 
Battery powered fuses started during 2015. Then at 2018 they introduced a new self-powered fuse that doesn't require servicing. So only 2015-2018 cars should be affected.

Thanks for the info.

if drive battery has been replaced under warranty, it's very likely the pyro fuse is newer than the car

And, thanks for mentioning this important exception. My HV battery was replaced with a new 350v/90kWh 1014116-00-C pack about 16 months ago with the build date showing as May of 2022 on its label. I would assume (hope) that it has a new self-powered fuse that doesn't require servicing. Correct?
 
Most likely yes. Other option would be that they transferred the fuse from the old pack. But doesn't seem to make sense as the part probably cost less than the work needed...

I would hope so since I've not received the alert to this date. My old pack's build date was January of 2015 and not knowing when in 2015 Tesla switched to the powered fuses, I'm not sure what kind of fuse that particular pack had.
 
I would hope so since I've not received the alert to this date. My old pack's build date was January of 2015 and not knowing when in 2015 Tesla switched to the powered fuses, I'm not sure what kind of fuse that particular pack had.
I’m gonna ask them on Tuesday. I have a broken door handle and some other misc stuff to clean up. I have a 2015 build date 90 pack so let’s see what they say.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Droschke
I just got the BMS 031 Battery Fuse Replacement warning for my 2015 S 85D. I went to schedule an appointment at Tesla - in Rockville MD - they will charge $670 to replace the fuse, for what they say is 2hrs work (@ $200/hr). Anybody doing this repair 3rd party for cheaper, or is this one place where Tesla is still controlling the parts and not allowing safe 3rd party replacement?
 
I just got the BMS 031 Battery Fuse Replacement warning for my 2015 S 85D. I went to schedule an appointment at Tesla - in Rockville MD - they will charge $670 to replace the fuse, for what they say is 2hrs work (@ $200/hr). Anybody doing this repair 3rd party for cheaper, or is this one place where Tesla is still controlling the parts and not allowing safe 3rd party replacement?

Do you know which month of 2015 your car was built?
 
Looks like it’s my turn for this great surprise “Battery fuse needs replaced” on my 2017 p100d.
Waiting to get my estimate which was going to be a mobile style service until they reviewed the battery fuse error and they had to switch it to making me go to the SC.
Hate these type of surprises and missing the “good tech fuses” by less than a year really stinks.
 
Looks like it’s my turn for this great surprise “Battery fuse needs replaced” on my 2017 p100d.
Waiting to get my estimate which was going to be a mobile style service until they reviewed the battery fuse error and they had to switch it to making me go to the SC.
Hate these type of surprises and missing the “good tech fuses” by less than a year really stinks.
Being you have a 2017, you shouldn't have any charge since the battery warranty would still be in force.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Justmurr
Confirming that I am completely covered for this update - taking it to service center today.
Now if only a 4-wheel alignment (for $275) and an air spring suspension leak could somehow be covered too 😂🥲
Just one strut leaking? I swapped out the front passenger air strut & upper control arm on mine earlier this year. It is pretty easy, and shouldn't require an alignment.

EDIT: Tesla wanted $990 USD +labor for just one air strut, and I was able to find an NIB OEM one on eBay for $325 at the time...
 
Last edited:
Just one strut leaking? I swapped out the front passenger air strut & upper control arm on mine earlier this year. It is pretty easy, and shouldn't require an alignment.

EDIT: Tesla wanted $990 USD +labor for just one air strut, and I was able to find an NIB OEM one on eBay for $325 at the time.

Just one strut leaking? I swapped out the front passenger air strut & upper control arm on mine earlier this year. It is pretty easy, and shouldn't require an alignment.

EDIT: Tesla wanted $990 USD +labor for just one air strut, and I was able to find an NIB OEM one on eBay for $325 at the time...
Well - when I was poking around in service mode this is where I saw the error messsage in the front right suspension for the air spring leak. Unfortunately, I’m not equipped for DIY so I’m dependent on Tesla service for what will now be my second significant maintenance item with my MS.
The alignment is unrelated.
My service guy said to be prepared for a suggestion to replace air springs in pairs for cars with over 80k miles… any thoughts on that?
They are running a pressure test too
 
Well - when I was poking around in service mode this is where I saw the error messsage in the front right suspension for the air spring leak. Unfortunately, I’m not equipped for DIY so I’m dependent on Tesla service for what will now be my second significant maintenance item with my MS.
The alignment is unrelated.
My service guy said to be prepared for a suggestion to replace air springs in pairs for cars with over 80k miles… any thoughts on that?
They are running a pressure test too
As to replacing in pairs, it's up to you. If you are replacing suspension parts the logic is that if one has worn out, chances are the other side isn't far behind. If you haven't had any other symptoms other than one side has started sinking, then the strut probably has some surface rust that has formed under where the seal rides the shaft when it raises & lowers. The struts are made by Continental, and that is fairly common. When looking at control arms, ball joints, tie rods, a symmetrical replacement is the best practice unless you are dealing with a truly defective part, or replacement due to physical damage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Justmurr