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From HVAC to Heat Pumps - kWh usage

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Another data point, it looks like I used around 720 kWh for the compressor on our heat pump. That does NOT include the energy for running the air handler. I don't have dedicated meter on that (yet). I keep the thermostat between 66 and 70. I'm sure that we ever actually reach 66. I have it set for smart recovery so it is already heating to come up to the wake temp in the early morning hours. 68-70 is quite comfortable if the objects in the house are not cold.

what kind of meter do you have installed to track heat pump energy use? I've been looking for a meter as well
 
what kind of meter do you have installed to track heat pump energy use? I've been looking for a meter as well

If your heat pump breaker(s) are on their own circuits, I highly recommend the Emporia Vue.

 
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My house is heated by oil. My 19.2kw solar panels with 2x power wall is recently installed last month. My ac system is 10+ years old so I decided to switch out to a new Mitsubishi hyper heat. Ducted heat pump system. Recently during Christmas the temp have dipped as low as 4 degrees. And the system have been heating the house at 68-71 degrees. I kept the oil heat as backup just in case of sub zero temps or power outage. My daily consumption have been as low as 60kwh to 90kwh. That’s without charging ev. But with electric hot water heater and cooking in the house. So I’m curious on see how much kWh can I saved up to off set these winter months.
 
Another data point, it looks like I used around 720 kWh for the compressor on our heat pump. That does NOT include the energy for running the air handler. I don't have dedicated meter on that (yet). I keep the thermostat between 66 and 70. I'm sure that we ever actually reach 66. I have it set for smart recovery so it is already heating to come up to the wake temp in the early morning hours. 68-70 is quite comfortable if the objects in the house are not cold.
I did have monitor on the circuit for furnace air handled that was shared with our tankless gas water heater (18 years old and I'm plotting to replace it with a heat pump) and recirculation pump. Looking at the smart plug data on the water heater and pump tells me they were insignificant compared to the air handler. So if I attribute all the usage on the circuit to the air handler that's another 88 kWh.

So in summary, roughly 800 kWh to keep a 3300 sq ft 2 story (2300 sq ft in the first floor) heated comfortably in Cupertino CA, Dec 2022. 3 adults almost always at home. I don't think I have too much other appliances/devices generating "bonus heat".
 
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My house is heated by oil. My 19.2kw solar panels with 2x power wall is recently installed last month. My ac system is 10+ years old so I decided to switch out to a new Mitsubishi hyper heat. Ducted heat pump system. Recently during Christmas the temp have dipped as low as 4 degrees. And the system have been heating the house at 68-71 degrees. I kept the oil heat as backup just in case of sub zero temps or power outage. My daily consumption have been as low as 60kwh to 90kwh. That’s without charging ev. But with electric hot water heater and cooking in the house. So I’m curious on see how much kWh can I saved up to off set these winter months.
@Charlesz - how are your oil boiler and hot water heater piped together? Or do you have a switch to use one or the other? Any concerns with the oil boiler sitting unused for months at a time?
 
@Charlesz - how are your oil boiler and hot water heater piped together? Or do you have a switch to use one or the other? Any concerns with the oil boiler sitting unused for months at a time?
The heat and the hot water comes from one tank burner. It’s currently shut off right now as I have added an electric tankless hot water heater.
I piped it in a way so i can shut the electric side off and use the oil side.
 
You should compare the output temperature of a heat pump vs. gas furnace. Keep in mind that body temperature is 98.6F and anything less than that might feel just warm at best, even though it's at, say 80F. If want "hot" air coming out of your vents, you *might* not want a heat pump.
All I'm saying is do your homework and make sure you know what you're getting.
Unless you're literally standing in front of your supply registers and putting your hands on them, it really doesn't matter. I wouldn't even notice when my heat pump goes into defrost mode (in which case the furnace offsets the heat being removed by the heat pump and the vents blow room temperature or slightly cooled air) if I didn't hear the whooshing sound of refrigerant reversing its direction from the changeover valve operating.
 
Another data point, it looks like I used around 720 kWh for the compressor on our heat pump. That does NOT include the energy for running the air handler. I don't have dedicated meter on that (yet). I keep the thermostat between 66 and 70. I'm sure that we ever actually reach 66. I have it set for smart recovery so it is already heating to come up to the wake temp in the early morning hours. 68-70 is quite comfortable if the objects in the house are not cold.

Just to be clear, this is 720kWh for the heating portion of your heat pump? How many months is that for? I'm trying to see what annual additional kWh I can expect to see if my excess kWh will cover.

At this moment, I keep the thermostat at 65-78 (heat on if drops below 65, AC on if above 78) but would like to keep the house temp around the range you have 68-70. It can get pretty hot here during the summer (90's, low 100s) so I'm expecting the unit to be used more from an "AC" perspective vs heating.
 
It is very likely that your new heat pump will be higher efficiency working as AC than your existing AC so your power usage will go down during the summer. It did for me. Remember that a heat pump is basically an AC that can run backwards. Taking heat from 70° house air and pumping it outside in the summer is much easier than taking heat from 40° outside air and pumping it into the house during the winter. There is simply more heat available for it to grab when working as AC
 
Another data point, it looks like I used around 720 kWh for the compressor on our heat pump. That does NOT include the energy for running the air handler. I don't have dedicated meter on that (yet). I keep the thermostat between 66 and 70. I'm sure that we ever actually reach 66. I have it set for smart recovery so it is already heating to come up to the wake temp in the early morning hours. 68-70 is quite comfortable if the objects in the house are not cold.
on cold days, does heat pump help with dry air? with gas furnace, if I up my thermostat to 70, my nose starts bleeding over night due to air being too dry...have to keep temp at 63 currently but would rather turn it up to 68-70F
 
on cold days, does heat pump help with dry air? with gas furnace, if I up my thermostat to 70, my nose starts bleeding over night due to air being too dry...have to keep temp at 63 currently but would rather turn it up to 68-70F
How would anything help with dry air unless it adds moisture to the air? A heat pump can extract moisture from the air (in cooling mode) as it condenses on the indoor (evaporator) coil. But when the indoor coil operates as a condenser coil, it doesn't add any moisture to the air. It only adds heat.
 
on cold days, does heat pump help with dry air? with gas furnace, if I up my thermostat to 70, my nose starts bleeding over night due to air being too dry...have to keep temp at 63 currently but would rather turn it up to 68-70F
As @STS-134 it doesn't directly add or remove moisture however to the extend that narrower band of temperature helps with air quality then it will help. The main thing with a heat pump is your not going to be swinging the temperature as much. The output temp is lower (which is better in my opinion). You don't want large set backs because the heat pump won't be able to catch up. I consider this feature.

In the summer a good variable system helps with dehumidification because it is able to run longer (at lower level) to dehumidify the air. If you have a humidifier then presumably the same thing can work in reverse.

I have not noticed any issues with humidity (but I'm in the South Bay). I'll have to check my indoor air sensor to see how much humidity is varying.
 
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As @STS-134 it doesn't directly add or remove moisture however to the extend that narrower band of temperature helps with air quality then it will help. The main thing with a heat pump is your not going to be swinging the temperature as much. The output temp is lower (which is better in my opinion). You don't want large set backs because the heat pump won't be able to catch up. I consider this feature.

In the summer a good variable system helps with dehumidification because it is able to run longer (at lower level) to dehumidify the air. If you have a humidifier then presumably the same thing can work in reverse.

I have not noticed any issues with humidity (but I'm in the South Bay). I'll have to check my indoor air sensor to see how much humidity is varying.
All my rooms with mini split heads stay above 30%