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Front camber adjustment
- Thread starter MY_TES
- Start date
Are you thinking about McPherson struts?
The Model Y uses double wishbone front and rear... so shifting the shock mount won't help you, unless you meant the knuckle. Even then, looking at the parts list from Tesla, I don't see any obvious way to adjust it without new parts.
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I see. It doesn't say how much the FUCA mount can move. But I'd guess enough for a basic alignment.
Just an update. Had alignment done today and we tried to adjust front camber by method above. Seemed like mine were already maxed with no room for adjustment. Your results may vary. Overall happy with the alignment. Shout out to the alignment techs that actually make adjustments.
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Just wanted to add to this thread for anyone needing it in the future for research/reference.
I had recently installed MPP comfort adjustable coilovers for my 2021 MY (plus MPP rear adjustable camber arms); I did not remove the upper shock/FUCA assembly that bolts onto the body. Had an alignment done about 1 week after installation. It seems that I couldn't find an alignment shop that includes front camber/caster adjustment using the above referenced Tesla adjustment method to get some adjustments on the front camber and caster. All the places I spoke to just said that they didn't do the front because there was little/no gain from the adjustment using those front shock mount bolts. So I just went ahead and had the alignment done at a recommended performance alignment shop since I wanted to make sure the alignment was good after I installed the MPP coilovers and lowered 1". In the below, the left alignment was the result after the alignment. Rear was good, but as you can see the front camber was slightly out of spec with the MPP coilover and drop. The camber difference between was -1.3 L vs -1.1 R. I didn't mind the slightly more negative camber with the drop, but the L/R difference was bugging my OCD haha. It's been over a month since the alignment, and I went ahead and adjusted the camber and caster on the front left with the upper shock/FUCA assembly bolts thinking that I could maybe get another ~0.2 or so adjustment to get the L to match the R. I marked the 4 bolts for initial position reference, loosened them, and pushed them as far out (+ camber) and back (+ caster). Got an alignment shop to just put the car on the alignment rack to get a reading. To my surprise, my left camber is back within spec, so that play in the mounting bolts gave me a 0.4 degrees in adjustment from where it was mounted initially from factory. To me, getting ~0.4-0.5 degrees of adjustment with these is pretty meaningful. Your results may vary depending on how it was positioned during installation at the factory. I'm going to go back in and do the same on the right side and get another alignment printout to see where I end up for the camber and caster. But looks like I will have to do another alignment if I want to get the front toe back within spec after this.
I had recently installed MPP comfort adjustable coilovers for my 2021 MY (plus MPP rear adjustable camber arms); I did not remove the upper shock/FUCA assembly that bolts onto the body. Had an alignment done about 1 week after installation. It seems that I couldn't find an alignment shop that includes front camber/caster adjustment using the above referenced Tesla adjustment method to get some adjustments on the front camber and caster. All the places I spoke to just said that they didn't do the front because there was little/no gain from the adjustment using those front shock mount bolts. So I just went ahead and had the alignment done at a recommended performance alignment shop since I wanted to make sure the alignment was good after I installed the MPP coilovers and lowered 1". In the below, the left alignment was the result after the alignment. Rear was good, but as you can see the front camber was slightly out of spec with the MPP coilover and drop. The camber difference between was -1.3 L vs -1.1 R. I didn't mind the slightly more negative camber with the drop, but the L/R difference was bugging my OCD haha. It's been over a month since the alignment, and I went ahead and adjusted the camber and caster on the front left with the upper shock/FUCA assembly bolts thinking that I could maybe get another ~0.2 or so adjustment to get the L to match the R. I marked the 4 bolts for initial position reference, loosened them, and pushed them as far out (+ camber) and back (+ caster). Got an alignment shop to just put the car on the alignment rack to get a reading. To my surprise, my left camber is back within spec, so that play in the mounting bolts gave me a 0.4 degrees in adjustment from where it was mounted initially from factory. To me, getting ~0.4-0.5 degrees of adjustment with these is pretty meaningful. Your results may vary depending on how it was positioned during installation at the factory. I'm going to go back in and do the same on the right side and get another alignment printout to see where I end up for the camber and caster. But looks like I will have to do another alignment if I want to get the front toe back within spec after this.
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fiehlsport
Tire Guy
.4 to .5 is more than I would have expected, but if you're going from one extreme to the other, it makes sense. You're right, most places won't even bother. Glad you posted this with data before/after since I was in the same boat with my car. These Teslas come from the factory with really wonky camber sometimes.
I needed to get a bit more adjustment out of mine in order for camber to be equal on both sides, and had to widen the holes for the FUCA a tiny bit on one side for the alignment technician. It worked great, and my car finally drives straight now after an alignment. Before, even with everything toe'd correctly, the increase in negative camber on one side would push my car in one direction and cause the steering wheel to go off-center.
I needed to get a bit more adjustment out of mine in order for camber to be equal on both sides, and had to widen the holes for the FUCA a tiny bit on one side for the alignment technician. It worked great, and my car finally drives straight now after an alignment. Before, even with everything toe'd correctly, the increase in negative camber on one side would push my car in one direction and cause the steering wheel to go off-center.
I think there was probably a bit more play if I had wanted to go more negative on the camber with the play in the bolts relative to the factory installation, so I think end to end, definitely more than 0.5+ degrees in adjustment.
For those who adjusted the front camber/caster from the upper FUCA bolts, how did you guys do it?
I loosened them and tried to move them while the wheels were on the ground, no movement.
I loosened them and tried to move them while the wheels were on the ground, no movement.
