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Front-rear camera touchscreen parking protection switch kit reservations

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Just as a data point, I've been in contact with someone from that company regarding a misdirected package (not mine). Today I got a follow-up email and the person asked if I had trouble with the long cable. All the email conversations were in a very friendly and professional tone.

I can't be certain, but I get the feeling that they will make sure that everyone gets a functioning cable set, even though help from Rick may be needed.

Interesting Klaus. It's hard to know what percentage of the cables are faulty. If RF emails everyone to ask if his or her cable is faulty, unless you've done the installation, how would you know? That's the problem. But given that installation is the only way to confirm that the cable is faulty and there's no easy procedure to pre-test the cable, I don't want people to have to go through most of the installation steps only to find they have a faulty cable. That's why I've asked RF to ship a replacement long cable to everyone. It was their mistake and I'm insisting that they make everyone whole before installation.

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No problem with the cables in my kit--everything works well. I am, however noticing that my front camera seems to be overheating when it sits at work all day in the sun. I get a "camera not available" message when I first get into the car and then as I start driving it eventually starts working. I can switch to the rear view with no problems.

Anyone else seeing this?

Haven't observed that with my set up, but then again I don't check the front camera for heat.
 
Did you wire the switch to have electrical power 24/7 or only when the car is ON?

24/7 via the OBD2 connector.

I think it's because the front camera is not shielded from direct sunlight the way the rear one is. I don't really care, as when I first get into the car I'm always reversing, so I don't need the front. I just don't want to do any permanent damage to it.
 
I think you would be better off connecting the switch via a switched +12 volt line and connect ground to the chassis screw, rather than using the OBD2 connector. I believe Rick is revising (or has revised?) the instructions to point out the grounding screw connection. If the camera is powered down when you are not driving, perhaps you will not have the issue you noted.
 
I think you would be better off connecting the switch via a switched +12 volt line and connect ground to the chassis screw, rather than using the OBD2 connector. I believe Rick is revising (or has revised?) the instructions to point out the grounding screw connection. If the camera is powered down when you are not driving, perhaps you will not have the issue you noted.

Yes, we're now not recommending use of the OBD2 connector at all. The new instructions will provide other options that are in fact easier.
 
I ordered the kit, but Tesla won't sell me a camera. It is crappy that they can sell you a $100K+ car and not sell parts for it. They need to get out of the habit of saying what they can't do.
A lot of us have purchased cameras without issue. Try another service center, maybe? It's probably a difficult situation for you since you're not allowed to talk to the service centers there in Texas directly, so I'm not surprised it's a hassle. Maybe drive across a border or ask someone you trust to pick one up for you and ship it?

Should have grabbed one while you were out here for TMC Connect, I guess. :frown:
 
I ordered the kit, but Tesla won't sell me a camera. It is crappy that they can sell you a $100K+ car and not sell parts for it. They need to get out of the habit of saying what they can't do.

The first SC I called in NY said they don't sell parts like that to individuals. So I called another SC in NY, and they said "sure!". This was about a month ago.

Last week I was at SC#1 for service, and asked if I could buy the camera, and the technician said "sure!" and sold me the camera on the spot.

So it all depends on who you talk to.
 
The first SC I called in NY said they don't sell parts like that to individuals. So I called another SC in NY, and they said "sure!". This was about a month ago.

Last week I was at SC#1 for service, and asked if I could buy the camera, and the technician said "sure!" and sold me the camera on the spot.

So it all depends on who you talk to.

Got a report from an owner I helped with installation last weekend that at her SC the staff were thrilled with the front camera switch. Thought it was quite cool. So it all depends. Some SCs are a bit uptight.
 
Hey artsci since the last E-mail you sent around are the cables back up for sale from the mfgr in china?

Not yet. RF Supplier have taken the problem very seriously. They are working on the quality, consistency, and accuracy of the twisted pairs. WhiteP85, who designed the PCB, indicates that the consistency of how the pairs of wires are twisted is an important factor as it affects the radio frequency impedance. If that is not right the signal gets distorted from reflections which could result in the camera not being seen. The shielding is also being improved. So hopefully after what appears to be several days wait while they make improvements that address these issues we'll have a very good solution.
 
Install complete! Everything works great. The only weird things are:

1) The image is inverted, it is right side up but what is on the left shows on the right side of the screen. I don't know if that's normal or not and I didn't read all 60 pages of this thread, so I apologize in advance if it was discussed earlier.

2) While the camera certainly help, since the angle of the lens (just like the rear) is so wide, it's a little hard to tell how close you really are. For front application, I think perhaps a traditional non-tesla camera might work better, although I don't think it would then show up on the 17" monitor for software/hardware compatibility.
 
Install complete! Everything works great. The only weird things are:

1) The image is inverted, it is right side up but what is on the left shows on the right side of the screen. I don't know if that's normal or not and I didn't read all 60 pages of this thread, so I apologize in advance if it was discussed earlier.

2) While the camera certainly help, since the angle of the lens (just like the rear) is so wide, it's a little hard to tell how close you really are. For front application, I think perhaps a traditional non-tesla camera might work better, although I don't think it would then show up on the 17" monitor for software/hardware compatibility.

This is an easily learned judgment. Using the front camera view pull so close to a curb that it looks like the car is about to hit it. Then get out and eyeball the actual distance. You'll find its about 6". The front camera view leads to a 6" overestimation of the distance to an obstacle. That's a 6" margin of protection. The front parking sensors on the other hand, underestimate the distance to a low obstacle by about 12". Not good.
 
Rick, thanks for the phone support as we finished the installation yesterday. Got 'er done! As we discussed putting the driver & pax door panels back in place is not a quick process but we made it work. I have a Signature so we could not remove the nose cone; even called my local service center and talk with a tech who said basically try ANYTHING so you don't have to remove it its is almost impossible to do hence the production changes.

In the end we shined a flashlight up from the outside grill toward the radiator top and could see some light coming thru. That lead to an area of the (attached) nosecone we could drill a small hole in for the cable and pry the grill open to fit a wire thru. Taped the cable to the wire, and get the cable routed.

Front license place bracket works perfectly and looks 100% factory. Nice job on that part. Switching works exactly as it should with the backup lamp wire switching the camera.

happy happy happy.

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IMG_4266.jpg
 
Rick, thanks for the phone support as we finished the installation yesterday. Got 'er done! As we discussed putting the driver & pax door panels back in place is not a quick process but we made it work. I have a Signature so we could not remove the nose cone; even called my local service center and talk with a tech who said basically try ANYTHING so you don't have to remove it its is almost impossible to do hence the production changes.

In the end we shined a flashlight up from the outside grill toward the radiator top and could see some light coming thru. That lead to an area of the (attached) nosecone we could drill a small hole in for the cable and pry the grill open to fit a wire thru. Taped the cable to the wire, and get the cable routed.

Front license place bracket works perfectly and looks 100% factory. Nice job on that part. Switching works exactly as it should with the backup lamp wire switching the camera.

happy happy happy.

View attachment 57759

View attachment 57760

Very clever solution for the Signature!