qdeathstar
Completely Serious
You are conflating minimum code requirements with best practices.
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You are conflating minimum code requirements with best practices.
You are free to do your install w/ 6 awg. But heck, why stop there? If 6 is good then 4 must be better right? How about 1? That is better still.I would want #6, and we havnt even discussed voltage drop. You are conflating minimum code requirements with best practices.
You are free to do your install w/ 6 awg. But heck, why stop there? If 6 is good then 4 must be better right? How about 1? That is better still.
Please stop coming on here and spreading FUD and scaring people into overpaying for their installs. The code is there for a reason.
I would make the claim that it's not an EV charging port, it's a specific device, a Tesla charging station with integrated GFCI protection (per the manual), therefore the requirement does not apply.Family member did our sub-panel which was done with a permit and passed inspection. No concerns on that front. I do want to be in compliance with code for EV charging, and outside of the GFCI breaker, it is. I did a quick internet search and I couldn't find any instances of a person getting injured while charging, so maybe this code change is an abundance of caution for a possible issue that has not yet occurred. So do I change the breaker to meet the new EV code, or just use it as is. Almost as hard as choosing the paint color....
I would make the claim that it's not an EV charging port, it's a specific device, a Tesla charging station with integrated GFCI protection (per the manual), therefore the requirement does not apply.
We can certainly argue about whether it is sensible or stupid or ridiculous or whatever that this requirement is in the code, but unfortunately it is really clear, and it does apply.I would make the claim that it's not an EV charging port, it's a specific device, a Tesla charging station with integrated GFCI protection (per the manual), therefore the requirement does not apply.
I was being facetious. I apologize for not inserting a winking emoji.no. Of course there is a cost/benefit analysis to be done. #4 would require a large junction box, conduit, ect. And would 1awg even fit under a connection for a 50 amp receptacle?
It's the minimum acceptable SAFE level. As long as you follow the code correctly (type of wire, temperatures, distance, etc) you can be assured that your install will not be a safety hazard. If you choose to over build in your house then you are free to do so. Are you telling me that your entire house wiring is up sized from code?you have no idea what you are talking about. The code is there for the minimum acceptable level. Not what is best. Running one gauge higher than required for large loads like this has many benefits. There is not a huge cost difference between running 8-3 or 6-3. Wake up...
. As long as you follow the code correctly (type of wire, temperatures, distance, etc) you can be assured that your install will not be a safety hazard.
The OP has already run the wire. What you are saying is that they should rip out their installation and redo it.
Finally, I speak from experience. I have 2 x 14-50's in my garage for charging and both are running on #8. They have been charging Tesla's for 4 years now without any problems. For the first 3 years one of them was charging at 40A (Gen 1 Mobile Connector) and the other is still charging at 40A (Roadster UMC).
No need for those code books everyone, we will all just do whatever @qdeathstar tells us. It'll be fine!tell that so the people who had aluminum wiring installed in the 70s or whose stab locked outlets melted down....
You implied it. Your posts make it sound like 14-50's run with #8 are wrong or not "best practice" (whatever that means). Why does everyone think that charging an EV is some super special thing? Electrons don't behave differently if they're going to an oven, a welder, or an EV.when did I say that? What I am saying is he didn’t avoid a Tesla tax. He also didn’t get an outlet well suited for ev charging.
Except that it is up to code. And yes it has been working for years.....Yay anecdotal evidence! What ya mean it isn’t up to code, it’s been working for 100 years....
No need for those code books everyone, we will all just do whatever @qdeathstar tells us. It'll be fine!
Your posts make it sound not "best practice" (whatever that means).... Electrons don't behave differently if they're going to an oven, a welder, or an EV.
We can certainly argue about whether it is sensible or stupid or ridiculous or whatever that this requirement is in the code, but unfortunately it is really clear, and it does apply.
"625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase
receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to
ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection
for personnel. "
https://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/AboutTheCodes/70/Proposed_TIA_1242_NFPA_70.pdf
It does not say a single thing about whether or not the device you are plugging into it also has GFCI, so that is not relevant.
I don't know what thread you think you are reading. There is nothing "direct-connected" about this. Quoting from the very first post from the original poster:It's not a receptacle, it's a charging device, direct-connected. The fact that it ultimately plugs into the car does not make it a receptacle; in fact, if anything, it's quite the opposite. Refer to any good dictionary.
He said he got an "outlet" installed. What we call outlets in informal parlance is referred to in electric code as "receptacles".In preparation for getting our MY we had an electrician install a NEMA 14-50 outlet
Yep, I think that is going to be a source of much heartburn going forward for any plug-in EVSEs. The new 2017 NEC requires the GFCI breakers now on those outlets, but that is frequently going to cause a lot of problems with EVSEs always having their own internal GFCI that is going to create those kinds of conflicts. It's making for a better case for just going hardwired to not have to deal with this problem.Installed a 14-50 outlet with gfci and when I plugged the TMC into it, I had a blinking yellow trying to charge MY. My electrician came over and tested everything and it was testing ok. We finally swapped out the gfci for a normal 50amp breaker and everything worked great. Installed the Grizzl-e charger on the same outlet and everything has worked great. The grizzl-e install instructions say NOT to install with a gfci downstream as it has an internal gfci built in.
Ser cable most likely, if it is grey.