Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[realrift]

I just tried swapping the 2-pin cables from left to right side. It was a very tight fit, with the cables barely making it from side to side under the carpet. So now the left side has the 2-pin (purple wires into factory purple/black plug socket)) and the right side has 2-pin (green wires into unused plug) plugged in. This now enables the right door tweeter and the mic. But, the left door tweeter is not working. All the other 5 newly enabled speakers have output

I ended up tapping a signal from the left pillar speaker and running that to the purple/black left door tweeter wire. Used a 4.7uF electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the tweeter as a crude high pass filter. (Not sure what values the capacitors are in the box the cable connects to). The left door tweeter is also working now

 

[Wy2sl0]

If they are using a DSP, why doesn't the DSP simply control the added speakers and run them active? Or do they? I don't know why time alignment isn't an option considering the source signal is for speakers further away.

 

[beachsideev]

I ended up tapping a signal from the left pillar speaker and running that to the purple/black left door tweeter wire. Used a 4.7uF electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the tweeter as a crude high pass filter. (Not sure what values the capacitors are in the box the cable connects to). The left door tweeter is also working now

I happen to know this because I took a picture of them They are 470uf caps. Unfortunately I can't read the voltage though.

But putting the cap in parallel with the speaker creates a low pass filter.

 

[realrift]

I happen to know this because I took a picture of them They are 470uf caps. Unfortunately I can't read the voltage though.

But putting the cap in parallel with the speaker creates a low pass filter.

Thank you for the info. I might change both tweeters to the same value at some stage. I believe the 4.7uF will give a higher crossover point than 470uF. I found a chart yesterday (which I can't easily find again today) with capacitors values vs crossover frequency for set impedence values. I measured the tweeter at around 4.4ohms.

The downside of using this type of high pass filter is that apparently as the speaker plays its impedence changes and the crossover point will then vary with impedence (inconsistent). This is my laymans understanding of it

 

[beachsideev]

I plan on putting the harness in this weekend. If I remember I'll check the voltage spec.

A single cap is a pretty crude crossover. Sure it works, but there are certainly better (and more expensive) ways.

 

[HKP_Tom]

I received my kit a few days back. I have a RHD 2020 car with no rear speakers, but have a complete 2019 rear shelf with speakers to fit in first. As my car is RHD, how do I avoid losing my Mic?

 

[Mojito]

Im interested in the DIY harness purchase but can I in the future order the amp and sub and add it to this harness? and can someone post a picture of the 12V on the penthouse to see where this is located to make the install easier. Thank you

 

[realrift]

I received my kit a few days back. I have a RHD 2020 car with no rear speakers, but have a complete 2019 rear shelf with speakers to fit in first. As my car is RHD, how do I avoid losing my Mic?

Hi, the mic problem seemed to be because I plugged in the right sided 2-pin connector into the left side and vice versa. When I swapped them over the mic worked again but I personally didn't have the left door/mirror tweeter working. The right door tweeter worked. This may just have been my particular kit though. Would be good to get some feedback from more RHD Model 3's.

 

[ivy_]

Can anyone help decipher the new models offered? I have a early 2020 built in November 19, so it has all the speakers.

 

[beachsideev]

I installed my diy harness this morning. I'm technically still not done as I had to run to autozone to buy some panel clips because one of them was mangled badly when it was installed and was unusable. I need to put the passenger side trim back together.

As for the sound, it is an improvement. The A pillar tweeters by your head are the most noticeable change. The sound stage doesn't feel so far away from you now. The speed sensitive volume is also a lot more noticeable. The car still badly needs a sub but I'm not going to go down that road. I don't think the rear shelf speakers are really noticeable in the front seats so if you don't have those I don't think you are going to miss much. Unless you spend time in the back seats.

Installation was a challenge. It took me 2 hours at this point and I still need to put a couple of trim pieces back together. I also took the time to check all the wiring out before I fished it through the center console. If I'm being charitable I'd say the instructions are a bit vague but also have extra steps that don't apply to the diy harness (i.e. the power and ground connections). Some of the videos I watched are also wrong. If they show you unplugging a connector at the bottom of the b pillar, it is for a different harness.

Here are some of the issues I ran into. These apply to the lhd model.

1. Getting the car to stay powered off is apparently impossible. Every time you open or close a door it turns back on.
2. The instructions don't clearly state which of the 2 wiring looms plug into the amp. Luckily all the connectors are different sizes and it appears to be impossible to hook it up incorrectly.
3. I used automotive double sided tape to mount the crossover box to the amp.
4. On the driver's side you need to unplug a purple 2 wire connector and plug in a wire from the new harness. The original wire is left dangling.
5. The 2 wire plug for the passenger mirror tweeter on my harness didn't match the instructions and there are two of these connectors in the kit. It took me a while to figure out which one of the two plugs to use. If you properly lay out the harness, you see that only one of them will reach. In my harness, it turns out the plug with the purple wires plugs into this plug.
6. You need to remove the carpet covered side panel on the driver's side of the center console as well. This isn't in the instructions. I moved the seat all the way back and pulled on the rearmost part of the panel to free it. It is a pain due to the pedals. Behind this panel, there is a plastic body rivet that I removed to run the driver's side wires up the firewall behind the carpet. You only need to remove the trim panel with the light and maintenance connector on it. I also popped the maintenance connector out of the panel so I could remove the panel.
7. The connector for the speaker mounted to the trim panel above the passenger footwell doesn't have a latch. You just need to pull really hard to remove it.

I could swear I found a video that showed the installation for the harness I received but I couldn't find it today when I went to do the install. All the videos I found where for rhd and showed unplugging a connector at the bottom of the b pillar. This video was where I learned that you need to remove the driver's side center console panel. If I find it again I'll post it here.

Anyway, it isn't hard to install if you take you time. Pulling on the panels is the scariest part of the install because it seems like you are going to break something because you need to pull fairly hard on some of them. Watch the videos to see the correct place to start pulling on a panel. Some of the panels need to be removed in a certain way.

 

[beachsideev]

Used a 4.7uF electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the tweeter as a crude high pass filter. (Not sure what values the capacitors are in the box the cable connects to). The left door tweeter is also working now

I checked again before I installed mine. The caps in hansshow's crossover/junction box are 470 uF, 25V electrolytic caps.

 

[beachsideev]

This is the installation video I was looking for. Out of all of the ones I've watched, it is the best.

A couple of notes about it:

1. At 4:06 where he removes a couple of torx screws to remove the trim panel - I couldn't remove this panel. It didn't really matter though because you can fish the wires over to the driver's door at the top edge of the carpet. It probably makes removing the driver's side center console panel easier, though.
2. At 6:11 where he mounts the box to the amp - I mounted mine with the connectors facing down. His way with the connectors facing right might be better. If you do it my way, make sure you stick the box up high enough so that the wires don't interfere with the panel.

I spent some time sitting in the back seat and it really sounds better back there now. The shelf speakers made a huge improvement. I'm still not convinced it helps the front all that much though.

 

[B.K.]

This is the installation video I was looking for. Out of all of the ones I've watched, it is the best.

A couple of notes about it:

1. At 4:06 where he removes a couple of torx screws to remove the trim panel - I couldn't remove this panel. It didn't really matter though because you can fish the wires over to the driver's door at the top edge of the carpet. It probably makes removing the driver's side center console panel easier, though.
2. At 6:11 where he mounts the box to the amp - I mounted mine with the connectors facing down. His way with the connectors facing right might be better. If you do it my way, make sure you stick the box up high enough so that the wires don't interfere with the panel.

I spent some time sitting in the back seat and it really sounds better back there now. The shelf speakers made a huge improvement. I'm still not convinced it helps the front all that much though.

I just finished mine as well. I didn’t need to touch the horizontal panels underneath the drivers side. Also, instead of completely pulling out the drivers side center panel, I was able to pry enough from the lower section, seat side, to get to the rug rivet and push the wires underneath the carpet, leaving the upper section still connected (yes tight due to the peddle). The hardest part for me was unplugging the wire from the passenger foot well light (that isn’t effing enabled), but there are no latches, you just pull firmly.

 

[beachsideev]

My foot well lights definitely have latches. I thought about leaving them unplugged since they taunt me by coming on for a second when the car wakes up.

 

[B.K.]

Like most have said, the DIY kit is worth the effort and cost, early 2020 with rear deck speakers. I actually didn’t have any issues with the stock system, just wanted to enable what was already there. I’m not into heavy bass but I do like my music a little louder than most. Now I’m noticing that I am listening with the volume a little lower than usual, probably because it much more clearer. I’ve only had the car since the end of December, but I’m hearing things from my music collection that I haven’t noticed before (ymmv). I know that people have asked how it sounds when it is cranked high, but for me it starts getting uncomfortable to listen just beyond the halfway point (not distorted, just too loud for me).

 

[B.K.]

My foot well lights definitely have latches. I thought about leaving them unplugged since they taunt me by coming on for a second when the car wakes up.

I think you are right about the latch on the light. I do remember having a positive feel when plugging it back in.

 

[Spice]

I just installed the diy harness. Took a few hours to install, cut a few fingers, made my neighbors blush from some fowl language but ultimately succeeded.

Some immediate thoughts. It's a huge improvement, almost night and day compared to the stock SR+ audio system. Its so much louder that halfway is more than enough for my ears (and I used to roll at 80% normally). However in the name of science I took it to max volume with bass set at +4.0. The amp had no problems pumping out clear audio with big thump. I personally wouldn't waste the money on the more expensive models after having experienced the DIY harness from Hansshow. Highly recommend.

 

[Mitev]

I decided to use the 12V on the penthouse and the available ground. I just did not want to root around under the dash with a socket wrench. Since to power harness was separate, it was a piece of cake.

Did you use the ground right next to the 12V penthouse or the one next to the rear passenger like Hansshow indicated?

 

[BabyYeggie]

2. The instructions don't clearly state which of the 2 wiring looms plug into the amp. Luckily all the connectors are different sizes and it appears to be impossible to hook it up incorrectly.
6. You need to remove the carpet covered side panel on the driver's side of the center console as well. This isn't in the instructions. I moved the seat all the way back and pulled on the rearmost part of the panel to free it.

The plug with only orange wires goes to the driver's side and the plug with different colours goes to the passenger's side.

The removal of the console carpet bugs me the most about Hansshow's video. It came off like it wasn't even attached. Then, the installer just pulls the wire loom across the floor without securing it to anything...

Im interested in the DIY harness purchase but can I in the future order the amp and sub and add it to this harness? and can someone post a picture of the 12V on the penthouse to see where this is located to make the install easier. Thank you

There is no 12v with the basic harness. I'm guessing you'll need to replace the harness if you want to upgrade to another package.

 

[Spice]

There is no 12v with the basic harness. I'm guessing you'll need to replace the harness if you want to upgrade to another package.

I can confirm. I emailed Hansshow and they verified you'd need to replace the harness if you wanted to upgrade in the future.