Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR

[Rohhee]

Yeah I have a feeling that once I install the harness + the nvx sub, I'm probably going to find something else lacking. Down the rabbit hole I go.

(that being said, it honestly seems like the stock Model 3 speakers are pretty good outside of lows)

You shall see…

 

[read2achieve]

Hi everyone, just finished installing the DIY (New Version) in my 2023 M3 RWD LFP. Here are my notes that I definitely think will be helpful and useful for those trying to find what limited information that is out there:

- More for personal comfort, but be sure to bring a kneepad or something for your knees. A majority of your time will be spent contorting yourself in weird positions to be able to see the wiring. Being gloves, a flashlight (if you have a clip on / headlamp, even better), and a flat-nosed screwdriver (needed to remove some of the connectors - the white connector with black frame around it needs a screwdriver to undo the latch)

- When you begin, bear in mind that the lower trim piece is two pieces. I almost started trying to take the whole bottom off before by accident I realized just the section with the push-pins (there are 4 on mine) is separate and definitely easier to take off. The bigger section (you can tell it has the 3 "slots" alongside the seam that implies you just need to jam your pry tool in there and push to get it to come out. It doesn't.). Also, the push pins you can easily pop open just by using the forked-end of the pry tool. The pins themselves sometimes can pop right out of the "Expanding" part of the push pin. You can just pop them back in, they're not broken.

- The very LONG side trim piece that runs along the doorsill - you don't necessarily have to completely remove this, as it has some give and rotates slightly. I could not remove the triangular panel that sits to the right of the glovebox in order to move the OTHER rectangular trim to gain access to the push pin to remove the entire long side trim piece - the triangular panel had a clip that just didn't want to come out and I was getting scared of damaging the car if I just YANKED really hard.

- The long side trim piece has two plastic "flaps" that slip under the firewall/carpeting towards the right side of the footwell. They help to keep it flush. Be aware of these flaps when rotating/removing the trim piece.

- Removing/installing/connecting the first 2 of 3 parts (the "main" connector and the side connector with the black locking brace) isn't *too* hard, it just is a little hard to get to. The side connector hides behind the long side trim piece, if you are having trouble locating it. It definitely helps to have small fingers...

- Connecting the last connector by the B pillar is slightly more challenging. Some things to note is that it helps to remove the rubber sealing/trim - you can just pull and it comes off. You can easily put it back on. The blue connector is hidden underneath a white connector plug. You can lift the B pillar trim slightly, but just try to not pull it too hard.

- The white plastic cable guide that hides underneath the door sill has a few triangular "slots" that you can push a flat nosed screwdriver into and push to release the latches so you can remove it. It helps a lot to get to the blue connector.

- The most difficult part of the entire process, at least for me, was trying to find a way how to "hide" the frequency cutoff hardware that is built into the cable. I ended up being able to wedge it underneath the long side trim piece. That, and trying to hide/safely cable manage the extra connectors/cable girth putting the long side trim piece back.

In the end, after installation and cleanup, everything looks perfectly fine. There is a slight bulge where the long side trim piece meets the B pillar, and I believe that is due again to the size of the frequency cutoff hardware built into the cable.

Once installation is complete, I tested everything and all the speakers work! Some observations with the speakers on:
- The additional speakers make the sound feel literally like it is coming from a sound source that is physically higher. This of course makes sense, since the speakers are more above you. Before, the sound felt like it came from somewhere waist level. Now it feels more like the sound is coming from shoulder level.

- The speakers, being mid-range and tweeters, help to add a little clarity and expanded sound stage. Previously, the stock sound sounded very much like the speakers were directly in front of you. Now, they sound like the speakers are placed a little further apart from each other.

- The alerts don't sound any louder with the new speakers on. I have Joe Mode on, and it sounds the same to me.

- Bass sounds the same, as it should.

All in all, this process took me about two hours. Mostly because I have never done something like this and am DEFINITELY not a DIY person. Took everything slowly and being my *only* car, and a *Brand new* car at that, I was extremely terrified. I would recommend that if you are patient, take your time, and want to add more ... "spatialness" to your sound, then do it. The improvement is ... not mind-blowing - it is more subtle.


If anyone has any questions, I would be more than happy to answer them. I apologize that I did not take any photos, but would definitely recommend the following video - watched it a million times before doing myself to make sure I knew the process. I apologize if I am being very wordy here, but I just want to put out as much detail as I can for those that are on the fence about doing it or can't find any helpful info.

-

(One thing to note about this is that he is working on an older model. As I mentioned earlier, the first piece you need to remove is not the piece that has the 3 slits/slots. It is further back, and has the actual push-pin holes. Also, this video is for a different installation involving adding rear speakers, and uses a different main connector. The Hansshow one uses the main connector above the one used in this video )

Hello, i installed this kid back in April. I have still yet to get a software update. I am still stuck on 2023.2.12. Have you or anyoneelse on here had the same issue? I’m starting to worry that this disables software updates. Thanks in advance

 

[Rohhee]

Hello, i installed this kid back in April. I have still yet to get a software update. I am still stuck on 2023.2.12. Have you or anyoneelse on here had the same issue? I’m starting to worry that this disables software updates. Thanks in advance

Maybe you just need a reset and connect to Wi-Fi again.

 

[beachsideev]

This harness does not effect updates. Are you on the advanced schedule, or whatever they call it?

 

[acaurora]

Hello, i installed this kid back in April. I have still yet to get a software update. I am still stuck on 2023.2.12. Have you or anyoneelse on here had the same issue? I’m starting to worry that this disables software updates. Thanks in advance

It does not affect your car's ability to get updates. I am on 2023.12.5 as of this writing.

 

[read2achieve]

This harness does not effect updates. Are you on the advanced schedule, or whatever they call it?

Yes i have it set on advance. I have yet to get an update. Thank you for the response.

 

[read2achieve]

Maybe you just need a reset and connect to Wi-Fi again.

I have tried that numerous times. Still waiting for an update.

 

[Andriy1]

Got it installed! Was a super fun weekend project, I think I did a fairly decent job tuning the audio settings and I’m fairly happy - especially with the backseats down. Thanks a ton for all the resources in this thread, especially @RWAudio and @Rohhee

That CCM plug on the passenger side is pure misery.

My only reservation is it sounds kind of poor at low volumes, like it’s too aggressive. It sounds great at higher volumes, but if I go below 25% it’s a little annoying. Any way to clean that behaviour up? I’m brain new to car AV.

Thanks all!

 

[Andriy1]

Oh man, I totally get the rabbithole now. I didn't realize what I was missing, and now I want to at the very least upgrade the door + front speakers.

Might get the door woofer + tweeter (though honestly I might unplug the door tweeters, they seem like they're playing highs too loud on my system) + front speaker alpine kit from hepaking...

Also, oddly enough my Hanshow DIY kit didn't have any resistors (from what I can tell). I cut into all the electrical tape and didn't find any. Might be a difference in year (2021), I guess.

 

[RWAudio]

Oh man, I totally get the rabbithole now. I didn't realize what I was missing, and now I want to at the very least upgrade the door + front speakers.

Might get the door woofer + tweeter (though honestly I might unplug the door tweeters, they seem like they're playing highs too loud on my system) + front speaker alpine kit from hepaking...

Also, oddly enough my Hanshow DIY kit didn't have any resistors (from what I can tell). I cut into all the electrical tape and didn't find any. Might be a difference in year (2021), I guess.

Welcome to the rabbit hole, there is no exit!
What was included in the kit? One thing I find is that it's hard to get the right bass level for being parked and driving. Dial it in for being parked and it's lacking at highway speeds, dial it in for highway and the bass is a bit overwhelming when parked. I added the bass knob but haven't decided where to mount it, so it lives in my trunk right now.

What aspect of the stereo is not quite right below 25%?

 

[Zangief1977]

I have a '23 RWD so I ordered the DIY(New Version) 22+ (AMD Ryzen) LHD version of the Hanshow Premium Audio Upgrade.

Some notes for others who may find they don't like the sound of this.
The person who designed this either doesn't know anything about audio, or it was simply assembled incorrectly.

I tore my harness apart to see how what signals they were tapping into and how they had it wired. I intend to do more audio upgrades, so knowing what signals are available on this harness (so I don't have to cut any tesla wiring) will be important in the future.

They are tapping into the dash left and right speakers at the computer, and are putting all of the speakers (dash left, tweeter left, upper A pillar left, plus a 47ohm resistor) all in parallel on the single channel of the amplifier, (All the rights in parallel on the right channel) this is likely going to overload the amplifier channels and cause distortion at high volume levels that wasn't there before. Also with the upper A pillar speaker in parallel (receiving the same amount of power as the rest) it might be too loud and detract from the sound. I've read this is a 2w speaker and likely not meant to play at the same volume as the rest of the front speakers.

Perhaps they intended to put the 47 ohm resistor in series with the upper A pillar speaker to reduce it's volume relative to the rest and lessen the load on the amplifier. (This is the part I was referring to when I said it may have been assembled incorrectly). The 47ohm resistor is otherwise useless, as you don't need to add more load to the amplifier for no reason. (This is sometimes done in this resistance range when creating a line out converter that reduces speaker level to signal level for aftermarket amplifiers, but that isn't what's going on here so someone likely messed up).

For reference, the 4.7uF capacitors feeding the door tweeters make a 6db/oct crossover at approximately 8500Hz. This is what I would expect and it uses a reasonable quality capacitor, so I would say this part that was done well enough.

To be fair I haven't installed mine yet, but I probably won't do it as is. I plan to install a subwoofer and possibly power the door woofers from an amp while I'm at it, so I will want the door woofer signals and bring them to the back, then return the amplified signals, while using them to get the signal for the subwoofer as well.

If you are planning to install aftermarket amplifiers and don't want to cut any factory wires this could be a good kit to buy as most of the speakers are made available on the 3 connectors this taps into.

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I'm not sure if I can attach a PDF here, but I have the Tesla schematics. You might still be able to sign up at service.tesla.com the whole right to repair thing made them open up a bunch of info.

Hi, I think the A-pillar speakers are not 2W. I remember a thread where it was redacted, but I cannot find it.
Also, the gray thing you have pictured above is a wirewound resistor fuse right?
I have the focals (doors) and infinities (dash) and the Hansshow harness for speaker activation. I don't hear any distortion. I do notice my YT sometimes goes blank (no video, only audio). Not sure if it's related since its only recently started doing that.

Would you like me to show you how Hansshow wired mine for comparson? It is also a 23 RWD.

 

[RWAudio]

It would be good to know if these aren't actually 2W, I haven't been able to confirm this personally and was using the information referenced in multiple places. Probably worth some research, thanks for the heads up!
The grey things with coloured stripes are fairly standard 47ohm resistors, not fuses.

If you have the ability to show your harness I'd love to see if their manufacturing is consistent or if there's been a design change.

 

[Zangief1977]

It would be good to know if these aren't actually 2W, I haven't been able to confirm this personally and was using the information referenced in multiple places. Probably worth some research, thanks for the heads up!
The grey things with coloured stripes are fairly standard 47ohm resistors, not fuses.

If you have the ability to show your harness I'd love to see if their manufacturing is consistent or if there's been a design change.

Found it.

 

[Zangief1977]

The left dash channel powers the left dash speaker, left tweeter, Left A pillar speaker. This would be okay if you don't replace the dash speakers and disconnect the A pillar speaker.

Could you explain this? I currently have in my 23 RWD Infinity Ref (3x) in the dash, Focals in the front doors, and the Hansshow activation (tweeters and a-pillar speakers). Are you saying this is not OK to do?

Thanks

 

[error]

hey guys
i just spent over 3 hours trying to figure it out

I have installed the diy (new version) on a model 3 2023

the 4 speakers work.. but something weird happened after the installation.

after reconnecting both battery, the passenger window started acting up.. and the door handle and the door opening button of the passenger stopped working.

i can open the windows but i can not open the door.. the door handle outside also doesn't work anymore.

i though i had burned something… but the rest of the car was working, the radio too.. the other doors were working juts fine.

only the passenger doors isn't working anymore.

so i have disconnected and removed the hansshow harness and put back everything to factory… and the passenger door is working again..

so i had more time to kill, so i went forma second attempt.. disconnected both battery and re installed the harness again.. this time without finishing up the trims.. just a quick test.. and no go.. passenger door isn't working again.

can't open from inside can't open from outside.. even by pressing the open button, there was no mechanical sound whats.
so i have removed the harness again and put everything back to factory.. and closed all the trims.

the only thing good about this is that now im quick at installing this harness… but doesn,t work.. i just killed 3 hours of my time.

any clue?

do you think my harness has an issue?

my wife is a very clumsy person and she keep opening her door with the manual lever… to her that manual lever is more intuitive than the open button.. she keep thinking that the open button is to open the wind… to her, the little pic above that button looks like a window.. i know ..i know.. i got to live with her..

but i doubt it has anything to do with that.


why was the windows activing up after i first installed the harness… and why is there no power to the door after installing the harness and reconnecting the battery?

 

[acaurora]

From what you're describing, that makes me believe something is wrong with the harness then. Since it is kind of passing through the signals, makes me think that there may be something wrong with it. Perhaps reach out to Hansshow for a replacement?

 

[Zangief1977]

I installed the Hansshow harness recently in my RWD 23. It is working fine. Watch this YT video to double check your connections.

 

[error]

I did exactly, and I really mean exactly like on the video.. and the door won't open.

i took my fluke meter and checked every pins for continuity and the hansshow harness seems fine..

did i blow something? I know that on my very first attempt to install the harness i disconnected the battery under the rear seat but maybe it was still not properly disconnected.. the plug was still in its socket but im sure i did push the lever to disconnect it.. maybe there was still some connection since i did not remove it from the socket..…. I remember that the main screen turned on while i was installing the harness… i wasn,t sure at that time i though it was normal.. that means maybe the 12v battery was still connected after all.. fkin noob mistake. maybe it was my fault For going too fast.

on my second attempt to install the harness i disconnected the 12v battery and this time i did it completely by pulling it out of the socket..

after connecting everything back i even did a reset by pressing and holding the two reels on the steeringwheel.

nope, passenger door will not open… the door button doesn't make any mechanical or electrical sound either.

all other doors were fine though.

as for the 4 speakers they were working just fine.. i was happy to hear them..

but like I said, door is way more important that the speaker, so i had to remove the harness again…to put back everything to factory default.

using the fluke meter continuity i couldn't find anything wrong with the harness.

is there a pinout schematic that tells which wires operate the door? And which plug is related to the door harness.

my guess its the big plug with the black lever Thing.. but which wire would it be

hansshow didn't reply to my request thats why i trying this forum.

 

[error]

Yessss,! It works! I had to give it another try..

i only pushed all the plugs more firmly this time.. especially the one with the black retainer..

going to test it further tomorrow in daylight… can't blast the sound while everyone s sleeping

 

[beachsideev]

Glad you figured out. Fwiw, I never disconnected either battery when I installed mine in my old car.