I have a '23 RWD so I ordered the DIY(New Version) 22+ (AMD Ryzen) LHD version of the Hanshow Premium Audio Upgrade.
Some notes for others who may find they don't like the sound of this.
The person who designed this either doesn't know anything about audio, or it was simply assembled incorrectly.
I tore my harness apart to see how what signals they were tapping into and how they had it wired. I intend to do more audio upgrades, so knowing what signals are available on this harness (so I don't have to cut any tesla wiring) will be important in the future.
They are tapping into the dash left and right speakers at the computer, and are putting all of the speakers (dash left, tweeter left, upper A pillar left, plus a 47ohm resistor) all in parallel on the single channel of the amplifier, (All the rights in parallel on the right channel) this is likely going to overload the amplifier channels and cause distortion at high volume levels that wasn't there before. Also with the upper A pillar speaker in parallel (receiving the same amount of power as the rest) it might be too loud and detract from the sound. I've read this is a 2w speaker and likely not meant to play at the same volume as the rest of the front speakers.
Perhaps they intended to put the 47 ohm resistor in series with the upper A pillar speaker to reduce it's volume relative to the rest and lessen the load on the amplifier. (This is the part I was referring to when I said it may have been assembled incorrectly). The 47ohm resistor is otherwise useless, as you don't need to add more load to the amplifier for no reason. (This is sometimes done in this resistance range when creating a line out converter that reduces speaker level to signal level for aftermarket amplifiers, but that isn't what's going on here so someone likely messed up).
For reference, the 4.7uF capacitors feeding the door tweeters make a 6db/oct crossover at approximately 8500Hz. This is what I would expect and it uses a reasonable quality capacitor, so I would say this part that was done well enough.
To be fair I haven't installed mine yet, but I probably won't do it as is. I plan to install a subwoofer and possibly power the door woofers from an amp while I'm at it, so I will want the door woofer signals and bring them to the back, then return the amplified signals, while using them to get the signal for the subwoofer as well.
If you are planning to install aftermarket amplifiers and don't want to cut any factory wires this could be a good kit to buy as most of the speakers are made available on the 3 connectors this taps into.
I'm not sure if I can attach a PDF here, but I have the Tesla schematics. You might still be able to sign up at service.tesla.com the whole right to repair thing made them open up a bunch of info.
Some notes for others who may find they don't like the sound of this.
The person who designed this either doesn't know anything about audio, or it was simply assembled incorrectly.
I tore my harness apart to see how what signals they were tapping into and how they had it wired. I intend to do more audio upgrades, so knowing what signals are available on this harness (so I don't have to cut any tesla wiring) will be important in the future.
They are tapping into the dash left and right speakers at the computer, and are putting all of the speakers (dash left, tweeter left, upper A pillar left, plus a 47ohm resistor) all in parallel on the single channel of the amplifier, (All the rights in parallel on the right channel) this is likely going to overload the amplifier channels and cause distortion at high volume levels that wasn't there before. Also with the upper A pillar speaker in parallel (receiving the same amount of power as the rest) it might be too loud and detract from the sound. I've read this is a 2w speaker and likely not meant to play at the same volume as the rest of the front speakers.
Perhaps they intended to put the 47 ohm resistor in series with the upper A pillar speaker to reduce it's volume relative to the rest and lessen the load on the amplifier. (This is the part I was referring to when I said it may have been assembled incorrectly). The 47ohm resistor is otherwise useless, as you don't need to add more load to the amplifier for no reason. (This is sometimes done in this resistance range when creating a line out converter that reduces speaker level to signal level for aftermarket amplifiers, but that isn't what's going on here so someone likely messed up).
For reference, the 4.7uF capacitors feeding the door tweeters make a 6db/oct crossover at approximately 8500Hz. This is what I would expect and it uses a reasonable quality capacitor, so I would say this part that was done well enough.
To be fair I haven't installed mine yet, but I probably won't do it as is. I plan to install a subwoofer and possibly power the door woofers from an amp while I'm at it, so I will want the door woofer signals and bring them to the back, then return the amplified signals, while using them to get the signal for the subwoofer as well.
If you are planning to install aftermarket amplifiers and don't want to cut any factory wires this could be a good kit to buy as most of the speakers are made available on the 3 connectors this taps into.
I'm not sure if I can attach a PDF here, but I have the Tesla schematics. You might still be able to sign up at service.tesla.com the whole right to repair thing made them open up a bunch of info.
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