Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

[tlr1000]

Good that the Hansshow is now doing what Tesla Offer was doing from the start with the CANBUS option. The ironic thing is that many Hansshow sellers used to say that the Tesla Offer CANBUS solution voided the warranty so curious how they will spin this v4 change. The Tesla Offer one was also quieter (soft closing) on opening/closing and seems Hansshow has improved this as well.

Looking at Hansshow, I'm not sure if their plug and play connector is available for cars 2018 and before vs 2019 and on as they require different connectors. Tesla Offer's site has a drop down box for year of your car to provide the right connector.

 

[tlr1000]

I was reading another thread about the Hansshow v4 and the complaint was that there was not noticeable difference with CANBUS connected or not. The 'animation' I described previously still exists so you still have to pay attention to when the screen button is in the right status before you activate the trunk closure. I would guess maybe they haven't released the firmware for this.

After the Hansshow v4 release, it seems TO made another update to further refine their trunk:

Youtube video description is: "Minor update on Electric Tailgate kit to make the opening and closing even more smoother and softer!" and it's accompanied by a firmware update. Just when Hansshow implements v4 to catch up, TO stays one step ahead. From what I understand this latch upgrade part can be purchased for around $10 shipped (I think it's primarily shipping cost).

 

[tlr1000]

Just got my Tesla Offer 2.5 kit. Here's a side by side of the differences. The Hansshow pic is a screencap for their latest YouTube video for v4. Time to install!

 

[tlr1000]

My friend came by today to help me install my TeslaOffer trunk kit and ended up doing 90% of the heavy lifting. The CANBUS connector was super-easy to hook up and glad they were able to supply the proper plug and play connector for my 2018 (2019+ have a different connector).

Likes:

• extra clips for the trim panel on the trunk as some broke when I removed the panel.
  
• even though some previous instructions I had said to have wire-cutters, not one single wire needed to be cut. Seems they've refined things so that not cutting, splicing is needed
• super smooth and quiet and always opens or closes with a single activation of touchscreen, fob, phone app, foot sensor, etc.

Dislikes:

• actually I have nothing negative to say about the kit other than there was a connector that wasn't used. We were scratching our heads what to do with it and only realized it was not used after re-watching a video. better if it was either cut off or labelled to indicate it is not to be used
• other dislikes were pain points during the install process. Getting two torx screws off holding bumper was a pain as there were seized on and why they use torx that are twice as long as required were odd. Power at VCright was not difficult to access and (at least in my 2018) VCright is not hidden behind a connector but the difficulty is that you can only get your left hand up there with a small 10mm socket and after you put the fork spade connector under the 10mm nut and tighten, it pushes the connector out as you tighten. This probably took 10 minutes rather than 10 seconds. Lastly the weather stripping around the trunk opening was difficult to reinstall properly. Before you remove this, you might want to put painter's tape at the edge of your bumper right where it meets the weather strip so that when you reinstall it you know how far to push it back down otherwise you won't get a good seal and the seal may be riding too high and interrupt the trunk closing.

Install notes:

• my friend is super picky about running cabling so we (or I should say, he) actually removed the bumper cover and the metal bumper support behind it. This gave the best clearance for running the 2 strut cables.
  
• Left strut cable went through blue round grommet on the left, right strut cable went through a factory body-colored grommet on the right corner and the foot sensor cable went though the oval blue grommet on the right. For the body-colored grommet it was removed and discarded. The grommet pre-attached to the right strut cable fit perfectly on this hole. For the two blue grommets, most people use a blade to cut slits to pass the cables through. I chose to hole punch them for perfectly round holes and then siliconed each one for extra water resistance.
• for cable management, I designed and 3d printed some cable clips that were attached using VHB. These were used in spots that zip-ties couldn't if there was no where to fasten the zip-tie.
• the main control box was double sided taped to the amp bracket. I didn't want to adhere to the sub enclosure to minimize vibration of the control box.

The whole process took just over 5 hours which felt like a long time but no corners were cut and the goal was to not have any water egress problems.

Now I patiently wait for the power frunk kit to arrive.

 

[tlr1000]

Thought I'd add a couple of pics. Pic 1 is fishing left strut cable and pic 3 shows same cable with 3d printed cable clip that's attached with VHB. These clips were added throughout to keep cable from rattling. Cable snaps in snugly to the clip. Pic 2 is foot sensor which I mounted further back than I really wanted to but it was the only spot that had a completely flat spot for the doublesided tape to adhere to for maximum adhesion.

 

[BEPA400]

Sweet.. ok how much does your heavy lifting friend want to come help install mine??!

 

[tlr1000]

Sweet.. ok how much does your heavy lifting friend want to come help install mine??!

I guess it depends which side of Canada you're in first.

 

[EV-Fixme]

My friend came by today to help me install my TeslaOffer trunk kit and ended up doing 90% of the heavy lifting. The CANBUS connector was super-easy to hook up and glad they were able to supply the proper plug and play connector for my 2018 (2019+ have a different connector).

Likes:

• extra clips for the trim panel on the trunk as some broke when I removed the panel.
  
• even though some previous instructions I had said to have wire-cutters, not one single wire needed to be cut. Seems they've refined things so that not cutting, splicing is needed
• super smooth and quiet and always opens or closes with a single activation of touchscreen, fob, phone app, foot sensor, etc.

Dislikes:

• actually I have nothing negative to say about the kit other than there was a connector that wasn't used. We were scratching our heads what to do with it and only realized it was not used after re-watching a video. better if it was either cut off or labelled to indicate it is not to be used
• other dislikes were pain points during the install process. Getting two torx screws off holding bumper was a pain as there were seized on and why they use torx that are twice as long as required were odd. Power at VCright was not difficult to access and (at least in my 2018) VCright is not hidden behind a connector but the difficulty is that you can only get your left hand up there with a small 10mm socket and after you put the fork spade connector under the 10mm nut and tighten, it pushes the connector out as you tighten. This probably took 10 minutes rather than 10 seconds. Lastly the weather stripping around the trunk opening was difficult to reinstall properly. Before you remove this, you might want to put painter's tape at the edge of your bumper right where it meets the weather strip so that when you reinstall it you know how far to push it back down otherwise you won't get a good seal and the seal may be riding too high and interrupt the trunk closing.

Install notes:

• my friend is super picky about running cabling so we (or I should say, he) actually removed the bumper cover and the metal bumper support behind it. This gave the best clearance for running the 2 strut cables.
  
• Left strut cable went through blue round grommet on the left, right strut cable went through a factory body-colored grommet on the right corner and the foot sensor cable went though the oval blue grommet on the right. For the body-colored grommet it was removed and discarded. The grommet pre-attached to the right strut cable fit perfectly on this hole. For the two blue grommets, most people use a blade to cut slits to pass the cables through. I chose to hole punch them for perfectly round holes and then siliconed each one for extra water resistance.
• for cable management, I designed and 3d printed some cable clips that were attached using VHB. These were used in spots that zip-ties couldn't if there was no where to fasten the zip-tie.
• the main control box was double sided taped to the amp bracket. I didn't want to adhere to the sub enclosure to minimize vibration of the control box.

The whole process took just over 5 hours which felt like a long time but no corners were cut and the goal was to not have any water egress problems.

Now I patiently wait for the power frunk kit to arrive.

You should not have to remove the weather stripping for either kit. We did that initially, cant remember why... but have not been removing it for a LONG time.

 

[tlr1000]

You should not have to remove the weather stripping for either kit. We did that initially, cant remember why... but have not been removing it for a LONG time.

Rookie mistake! lol

 

[TonyT]

Rookie mistake! lol

Yes, was ours too lol

 

[lkstaack]

Thought I'd add a couple of pics. Pic 1 is fishing left strut cable and pic 3 shows same cable with 3d printed cable clip that's attached with VHB. These clips were added throughout to keep cable from rattling. Cable snaps in snugly to the clip. Pic 2 is foot sensor which I mounted further back than I really wanted to but it was the only spot that had a completely flat spot for the doublesided tape to adhere to for maximum adhesion.

tlr1000: I appreciate the time you took to share on your install. One question though: where did you run the strut cables on the way down to the bumper? Did you hide them within the trunk weatherstrip? If so, didn't that distort the weatherstrip? The Tesla Offer unit uses some good quality components, but their instructions leave a lot to be desired. You must play search the web to install their product.

 

[tlr1000]

tlr1000: I appreciate the time you took to share on your install. One question though: where did you run the strut cables on the way down to the bumper? Did you hide them within the trunk weatherstrip? If so, didn't that distort the weatherstrip? The Tesla Offer unit uses some good quality components, but their instructions leave a lot to be desired. You must play search the web to install their product.

The strut cables were run near the weather strip but at no point pushing against it to cause any distortion for potential water ingress issues. I know some people aren't so worried and they run it under the weather strip or through the tail light hole since they might live in drier climates but they still have to wash their cars. As mentioned, the steel bumper support (under the bumper cover) was even removed to run the cables. I clipped the cables down along the way with 3d printed clips and VHB. Cables entered the car through factory holes with punched out grommets, drip looped cable, and silicone on the cable. Probably as weather proof as you can get. Hopefully it works.

 

[lkstaack]

The strut cables were run near the weather strip but at no point pushing against it to cause any distortion for potential water ingress issues. I know some people aren't so worried and they run it under the weather strip or through the tail light hole since they might live in drier climates but they still have to wash their cars. As mentioned, the steel bumper support (under the bumper cover) was even removed to run the cables. I clipped the cables down along the way with 3d printed clips and VHB. Cables entered the car through factory holes with punched out grommets, drip looped cable, and silicone on the cable. Probably as weather proof as you can get. Hopefully it works.

Thank you for your quick response. Yes, it looks like you ran those cables properly, and I'll do the same. It doesn't offer moisture new access into the trunk and doesn't stress the cable.

The "official" Tesla Offer solution is to run the cable under the trunk weather stripping and into the trunk. I wonder how long it will take before normal trunk operation causes the cable wires to break?

 

[tlr1000]

Thank you for your quick response. Yes, it looks like you ran those cables properly, and I'll do the same. It doesn't offer moisture new access into the trunk and doesn't stress the cable.

The "official" Tesla Offer solution is to run the cable under the trunk weather stripping and into the trunk. I wonder how long it will take before normal trunk operation causes the cable wires to break?

I definitely think there's value to take a little extra effort for the install. Hard to say how long it will take before cable gets worn when it's rubbing on that metal edge but at least it's trapped and not bouncing around. The more immediate problem there is distorting the seal.

I looked at a lot of videos and picked up what I thought were best practices. So many YouTube videos make me cringe and even a professional installer on YouTube who prefers drilling an extra hole for the left strut rather than going through an existing factory hole is odd. If I found no better option but to drill a hole I'd at least cover the exposed bare metal with some rustproof coating before installing the grommet.

By the way, I tried opening my trunk with my fob at a full stop but in 'D' and it doesn't open unless in 'P'. I suppose the foot sensor would not trigger as well in a situation like being stopped at a red light while in 'D'. This is a great feature with Tesla Offer and maybe Hansshow does this too (but not sure).

Good luck with your install and reach out if you have snags or questions.

 

[bsk997]

Thanks for the write up and pics tlr1000!
Hoping to get our kit in a couple weeks.

 

[m3snowy]

@tlr1000 thanks for all the useful info!

I wonder how long it took for the package to arrive and how much you had to pay in import duty and taxes. Thanks!

 

[tlr1000]

@tlr1000 thanks for all the useful info!

I wonder how long it took for the package to arrive and how much you had to pay in import duty and taxes. Thanks!

Mine was shipped DHL Express and took 3 days from leaving their door to mine. Superfast! As soon as it is in DHL's hands, they will send you an electronic invoice for sales taxes and their brokerage/processing fee. I don't recall the exact amounts but DHL charges a flat fee (maybe $15 or so) for their service fees plus GST/PST on the value of the item but no duty.

It's a nice setup and now that I can also control it by voice using Google Routines, it's even better.

 

[tlr1000]

Been waiting patiently for my frunk kit to come and TeslaOffer updated me that it is almost ready. They've been revamping the kit (Mk.3) which includes some new features. As some of you know, the water-proofing solution for both companies had room for improvement. Hansshow came up with a silicone/rubber accordion sleeve around the control box which probably is a reasonable solution. TeslaOffer has redesigned the entire electronics box for water-proofness which seems to be a better solution. I understand there are further improvements to noise reduction and some other benefits for the Mk.3 so I am really looking forward to getting it.

 

[univ0298]

Been waiting patiently for my frunk kit to come and TeslaOffer updated me that it is almost ready. They've been revamping the kit (Mk.3) which includes some new features. As some of you know, the water-proofing solution for both companies had room for improvement. Hansshow came up with a silicone/rubber accordion sleeve around the control box which probably is a reasonable solution. TeslaOffer has redesigned the entire electronics box for water-proofness which seems to be a better solution. I understand there are further improvements to noise reduction and some other benefits for the Mk.3 so I am really looking forward to getting it.

Interesting, thanks for letting us know. I went ahead and bought Hanshow's latest trunk and trunk last week (should be delivered today). Hopefully won't miss out on anything too big in newer versions, or in the TO product vs Hansshow.

 

[tlr1000]

Interesting, thanks for letting us know. I went ahead and bought Hanshow's latest trunk and trunk last week (should be delivered today). Hopefully won't miss out on anything too big in newer versions, or in the TO product vs Hansshow.

Are you installing it yourself? If so, just take your time and be prepared to use some colorful language. Both companies have come a long way in product progression and I really don't see too much more they can improve on so jumping in now is good. As I've mentioned, there are things I prefer about the TO kits (no screen animation, soft trunk strut material, and now the way they will weatherproof the frunk control box) but either way both should work well. I'm sure you will enjoy the power trunk/frunk once you get it all installed. Have fun.

Oh, btw I know this sounds like overkill but I purchased a specific cable pulling lubricant from Amazon to get the wire through that rubber tube. Some installers use window cleaner, baby shampoo, etc and although those all get the job done, I was worried about long term impact on the cabling. Specifically formulated lubricants are likely safer for the wiring and dry without harmful residue. I figure for $8 or so, why not.