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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

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I know exactly what you’re saying. But I’m suggesting you’re making assumptions about the management of the 12v that I don’t subscribe to.

How do you know that regularly driving the car tops the 12v up above the threshold of what the car would do when it’s not being used and there is slow discharge?
I'm not saying it tops it up above the threshold.

Lead acid batteries don't like being deep discharged. Let's assume Tesla has set the threshold for "wake up specifically to charge the 12v" when it reaches 60% capacity (conventional wisdom is that 50% or below causes irreperable damage, so it's probably more like 70% or more). In the case of my car, not being driven for several days or even weeks, it is getting to that point, waking up, then spending 1-3 hours (usually more like 2-3) recharging it back to 100%.

Now imagine that instead you're driving the car every other day. When the car is awake, at all - including just being sat there with Sentry on - it is maintaining the 12v battery - which is to say, like an alternator, it is giving it ~14.5v+. You can confirm this by going to Service Mode and seeing that the PCS is doing this ("Support Status: Active") when you're sat in the car.

In the scenario where the car is being driven every other day the LV battery is never hitting 60% (or whatever the wake threshold is) because it's never sat there idle for long enough. This means the LV battery is healthier, requires replacement less often, etc.

Anyway, it doesn’t really matter because my main point is the convenience of a powered trunk/frunk is lost if you have to go through an extra step to use it.

Might as well just pull them up yourself.
That I can certainly agree with. :)

I was hoping that if I ran the kits off an auxiliary battery, then I could at least protect the main car 12v from discharging. It sounds like quite a faff though.
 
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Has anyone experienced issues with the trunk stopping half way? I installed the EV offer trunk about 1.5 years ago and occasionally (1-2 times so far) there have been instances where it would stop half way when closing. I usually have to manually push the trunk down and then any other open-close cycles work fine.
 
Looks like EVOffer have figured out a way of making their Mark 3 trunk kit to work with the OEM trunk config:


You'd need to update the config in Toolbox to make it work like OEM, which would come at a cost because I doubt Tesla would do that for you.

If you don't have a Mark 3 ECU (I don't), then they offer the upgrade kit for $100. I'm tempted.
 
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Looks like EVOffer have figured out a way of making their Mark 3 trunk kit to work with the OEM trunk config:


You'd need to update the config in Toolbox to make it work like OEM, which would come at a cost because I doubt Tesla would do that for you.

If you don't have a Mark 3 ECU (I don't), then they offer the upgrade kit for $100. I'm tempted.
Bit confused but what would “be like OEM” actually mean in practice?

Also getting Tesla to code that option would likely be easier said than done. Worst case scenario you’d have to pay someone circa $500 to do it (was looking into retrofitting matrix headlights at one point)
 
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Bit confused but what would “be like OEM” actually mean in practice?

Also getting Tesla to code that option would likely be easier said than done. Worst case scenario you’d have to pay someone circa $500 to do it (was looking into retrofitting matrix headlights at one point)
I think it means it can be fully operated by the infotainment and app without the hacky actions. I doubt it would change the actual open and closing behaviour. That’s probably as close to OEM as it’s going to get for a powered tailgate for my car so looks like a good option as I make good use of it.

If you buy a 1 hour subscription to Toolbox 3 it costs £40, and you can do it yourself. The trunk config one of the options they make available on the consumer version. I did this to code Trailer mode for my tow bar retrofit.
 
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I think it means it can be fully operated by the infotainment and app without the hacky actions. I doubt it would change the actual open and closing behaviour.

If you buy a 1 hour subscription to Toolbox 3 it costs £40, and you can do it yourself. The trunk config one of the options they make available on the consumer version. I did this to code Trailer mode for my tow bar retrofit.
Nice one. Didn’t know it was in consumer version.

Where did you hear it was a $100 upgrade? Couldn’t find that option on website. Is it just the control box needed if you have a 2.5 kit?
 
Nice one. Didn’t know it was in consumer version.

Where did you hear it was a $100 upgrade? Couldn’t find that option on website. Is it just the control box needed if you have a 2.5 kit?
Spoke to them on Telegram. They said I’d need to replace both ECU’s and the wire that goes from the small ECU to the trunk latch. But everything is the same and no fishing of wires required.

Just waiting on them to upload pics so I can see if it’s worth the effort because I’m not about to re run any wires going into the cabin or the 12V.
 
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Spoke to them on Telegram. They said I’d need to replace both ECU’s and the wire that goes from the small ECU to the trunk latch. But everything is the same and no fishing of wires required.

Just waiting on them to upload pics so I can see if it’s worth the effort because I’m not about to re run any wires going into the cabin or the 12V.
Cool, would be interested to find out myself.

Not sure what or where the “small ECU” is, but I’m probably not remembering the installation clearly (was done by a forum member). The only ECU I remember is the one in the subwoofer recess.

Possibly also worth bearing in mind that there’s an official OEM powered boot retrofit that’s been available in the States since last year, so there is a good chance it will come over here soon-ish (PWS retrofit appeared there a few months beforehand too). It’s not cheap, you’d lose foot sensor control, but if you wanted that OEM experience (it’s actually better - two powered struts) and warranty it might be worth thinking about.
 
Cool, would be interested to find out myself.

Not sure what or where the “small ECU” is, but I’m probably not remembering the installation clearly (was done by a forum member). The only ECU I remember is the one in the subwoofer recess.

Possibly also worth bearing in mind that there’s an official OEM powered boot retrofit that’s been available in the States since last year, so there is a good chance it will come over here soon-ish (PWS retrofit appeared there a few months beforehand too). It’s not cheap, you’d lose foot sensor control, but if you wanted that OEM experience (it’s actually better - two powered struts) and warranty it might be worth thinking about.
There’s a small module that’s also placed on the inside of the lid right next to the latch.

I’m not holding my breath for the retrofit tbh.
 
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This seems like a nice project. I have a 2019 model 3 with HW3 and have the EVOffer mark 3.0 trunk kit installed. It’s possible to get the toolbox cable on eBay, Amazon etc. Also possible to get the plug itself if one wants to make a cable based on a normal CAT6 patch cable.
In Norway where I live it’s possible to pay around $40 for one hour Toolbox access. And that should be sufficient to do the change.

I will wait until EVOffer or anyone else come up with a guide for how to do the actual change in the Toolbox software/menus. And would love to hear others experience if anyone does this change before I get started on it.
 
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I think I'm going to order this week. I've got the cable already from a previous project and I've seen the setting in Toolbox so know what to do I think. I'll post details once I'm done.
One side benefit of you doing that (and me - if you get it working ok) is that the car won't lock with the boot open anymore. Because of how the 2.5 kit fudges the boot open status to make it possible to close it from the screen (it makes the car think the boot is closed when it isn't), the car will think it's ok to lock the car and do so, even if the boot is open.

I've never had the alarm go off when this happens, presumably because there's no motion sensors inside the boot area, but it's still a bit lame.
 
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I think I'm going to order this week. I've got the cable already from a previous project and I've seen the setting in Toolbox so know what to do I think. I'll post details once I'm done.
Spoke to EVOffer and they’re saying that the cable from the main ECU to the trunk lid (the horrible one you have to fish) has to be replaced too, as it “uses different connectors”. Damn.

Also can you point me in the direction of the cable you used for Toolbox please?
 
Spoke to EVOffer and they’re saying that the cable from the main ECU to the trunk lid (the horrible one you have to fish) has to be replaced too, as it “uses different connectors”. Damn.

Also can you point me in the direction of the cable you used for Toolbox please?
What?! They lied! Or I misunderstood…

Anyway, need to think about what I do now. Pulling out and re-fishing the cable sounds risky.

I got this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BR5371ZR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
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What?! They lied! Or I misunderstood…

Anyway, need to think about what I do now. Pulling out and re-fishing the cable sounds risky.

I got this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BR5371ZR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Me too. Would’ve gone ahead if it was just the ECUs. Replacing the wire that gets pulled through would be a massive pain in the ass.

Interesting that they wanted to know if I could get the config change. I wonder how it behaves if you haven’t done that?

IMG_7163.jpeg
 
I recently installed mark 3.0 into a 2019 model 3 and fishing the wire wasn't too bad. Not sure if it's because this due to the recall wire harness replacement. I had finally had the chance to get it repaired recently and fishing the wire was painless with some cable pull gel.

I could try to upgrade the tool box if someone can provide me the steps.
 
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I recently installed mark 3.0 into a 2019 model 3 and fishing the wire wasn't too bad. Not sure if it's because this due to the recall wire harness replacement. I had finally had the chance to get it repaired recently and fishing the wire was painless with some cable pull gel.

I could try to upgrade the tool box if someone can provide me the steps.
Do you have access to a service cable to connect the car to a computer?