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"Hard" reboot... nonsense, right?

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A few times I've come across posters mentioning a "hard" reboot vs a soft or normal one. Some go to painstaking detail in outlining the crazy voodoo steps required to engage this magical hard reboot. Some even purport to say there are times when such a reboot is "necessary".

I say it is all nonsense. [skip to end for a short version]

Here's a particular and recent thread on the subject (different forum, sorry) where you'll see several people explaining that there's a difference. One even links to a different thread, presumably as evidence that there is in fact a difference... but that thread contains more of the same: pure conjecture and a bunch of - I believe - nonsense. There are many MANY other threads, blogs, etc all spreading the same [mis]information.

The general "consensus" seems to settle on two different ways to achieve the same magical state: 1) Press the brake... no wait, press it "hard", while doing the common reset and you'll do a "hard" reset; 2) hold the reset switch down for 20, no 30, no 45 seconds to get to the "hard" reset.


Neither of these made much sense to me, but both were plausible. First, the time component: We've all had experiences when some low-tier tech support rep at our ISP says to unplug the router and wait 30 seconds, so that must be how to do it right? The time element is ONLY to clear a capacitor, ensuring power has fully been turned off. Once a reset is triggered, it is triggered. You can't trigger it "harder" by holding it down longer. Now... it is possible to trigger a true hard reset by having the button pressed at the beginning of a power on vs. while powered on, so holding it down through the complete cycle *can* make a difference. But does it on the Tesla? We'll see. As far as the brake goes: pressing it hard vs. not had to be complete nonsense, but it could be possible that the brake is a secondary hardware input signaling the computer to do a "hard" reset vs. a quickie... to me that made little sense because if there truly is a difference between "hard" and normal resets, surely they'd want a less conspicuous trigger than something you probably press out of muscle memory whenever you're sitting in the driver seat and not driving. I mean, if there REALLY is a difference, they don't want you doing one vs the other all willy-nilly, right?

But... I'm not one to put my thoughts as correct and others as nonsense without at least SOME experimentation, so that's what I did.

In all my years working with electronics, I have never ever EVER experienced a system where one type of startup vs. another didn't affect the time to some degree. For example, you do a soft restart of your Windows system vs. a full power down, power on... one takes longer than the other, right? If you unplug your router and plug it back in, that takes a different amount of time than if you do so while holding the reset, right? A "hard" reset is simply going to take longer than a soft one... right? If we can't agree on that, then you're dismissing my entire premise so no need to read on.

I went out to my car with stopwatch in hand. I engaged the reset of the instrument cluster (holding down both buttons above the thumbwheels) without the brake pressed and the display went down at 14 seconds. I immediately let go. The display started back up 11 seconds later and was fully on 4 seconds after that. I repeated this TEN TIMES, because if this wasn't consistent than there was no way I could convince myself that witnessing a "hard" reset was or wasn't real. It was precisely consistent, with each and every one taking the same timing plus or minus half a second. Then I repeated it with the brake pressed with normal pressure... same result. Then I pressed the brake hard... same result. Then I pressed the brake SUPER HARD - just in case that really was the trick... same result. No variance at all. There's no way a magical "hard" reset was being performed. Then I tried again but this time I never let go of the buttons. Again, the display went out after 14, on 11 later and fully on 4 after that... I continued to hold... for 5 boring minutes. Nothing. That was simply 5 minutes I'll never get back. Myth busted. I then repeated the same nonsense with the 17" display (holding down both thumbwheels). This one resets after only 4 seconds, takes 21 to come back on and another 12 to be ready to rock. Brake, no brake, hard brake, keep holding... no variance whatsoever.

So then out of curiosity I decide to do a real factory reset. To me, that's a "hard" reset. Because if that too took more or less the same amount of time then maybe I'm wrong and maybe hard vs soft just doesn't make enough time difference to notice. The funny part is that I didn't want to inconvenience my wife to reset her profile, so i put it in her profile before doing the reset. Now let me set the stage for you: I'm 6'4 and closer to 300lbs than I'd like to be. My wife is 5'1 and a tiny little thing. So here I am contorting myself as best I can with her profile squeezing me like a grape while I do this reset. I'm thinking instead of the 30 seconds or so that it might be a minute. No such luck... I was smashed up for over 6 minutes while it did its thing. Now THAT is a hard reset! Lest you think that there's actual demons in the box that have to paint over the memory sections one stroke at a time... that isn't explained simply by settings getting deleted. Deleting settings happens in nanoseconds. That time difference has to be due to a complete kernel reload.

Conclusion? Yes, there is a "hard" reset. No, it isn't dependent on how hard (or even if) you press the brake or whatever other nonsense voodoo. Its right in the settings screen.



Am I wrong? By all means, prove it.


[TL/DR Version]
- Instrument cluster takes consistent 14 seconds to engage reboot, 11 seconds to power back on and 4 seconds to normal state. This is regardless of whether or not brake is pressed or buttons held extended time.
- Similarly, 17" display is 4 + 21 + 12. Again, no difference with brake, etc.
- Factory reset takes several minutes.
- Conclude that no "hard" reset exists, other than the factory reset.
 
Bravo. Thanks for saving us the time to make these tests. I have a feeling that brake pedal requirement is left over from the old days when with battery disconnected the brake lamp was the load required to discharge capacitors. Our old BMW also had a quirky reset with the requirement to turn the steering wheel lock to lock after maintenance and the trip reset button provided access to the service parameters and timers for reset after an oil change or brake work.

I'm glad that our Model S with two buttons held down simultaneously does the job as I don't need to learn new voodoo at my age.

Thanks again.
 
I'm 6'3" an my wife is 5'2", so I felt your pain. But if I was doing your experiment, I would have sat on the passenger side -- I don't think the procedure you describe requires stepping on the brake to make it happen, but if so, I'd use a cane or something to press it from the other side!

Anyway, you didn't try what I consider a hard reset, which is what a second tier Tesla tech told me to do when I had a problem on a trip: park, and then perform a full Power Off (vs a factory reset): Controls -> E-Brake and Power Off -> Power Off. Wait a full minute, and then press the brake pedal to restart.

I tried it without waiting a minute, and that didn't fix the issue I was rebooting for. I repeated, and waited a full minute, which DID fix the issue (and there was a definite difference in the startup, though I don't recall the details; it was months ago).

So there you go. Your mileage may vary.
 
The way it was ‘splained to me was to simply hold down the upper buttons continuously until the logo appeared not once but *twice* upon the touchscreen.

Whether I depressed the brake pedal was not relevant to the outcome.

I had to do this a few times after the LTE upgrade in the first car and once in a great while with the current car.

This is what was referred to as a hard reset.

There’s another process beyond that, which involves one of the service tabs in Settings. Something about power cycling. Only had to do that once iirc.
 
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More Voodoo? :)

what I consider a hard reset, which is what a second tier Tesla tech told me to do when I had a problem on a trip: park, and then perform a full Power Off (vs a factory reset): Controls -> E-Brake and Power Off -> Power Off. Wait a full minute, and then press the brake pedal to restart.
The power off from the menu doesn't even remove power to the display computers, it is for the HV system. The screens go black... but I think that's just because that's what the user would expect, so its more of a confirmation rather than a functional part of the process. The screens come on almost immediately upon pressing the brake, so clearly there's no booting going on at all. I'm not sure I waited a minute though, so I'll confirm that tonight (wife has the car right now).
The way it was ‘splained to me was to simply hold down the upper buttons continuously until the logo appeared not once but *twice* upon the touchscreen.

Holding down the buttons for more than 5 minutes in my testing never resulted in a second reboot. And the upper buttons reboot the instrument cluster, not the touchscreen.
 
More Voodoo? :)


The power off from the menu doesn't even remove power to the display computers, it is for the HV system. The screens go black... but I think that's just because that's what the user would expect, so its more of a confirmation rather than a functional part of the process. The screens come on almost immediately upon pressing the brake, so clearly there's no booting going on at all. I'm not sure I waited a minute though, so I'll confirm that tonight (wife has the car right now).


Holding down the buttons for more than 5 minutes in my testing never resulted in a second reboot. And the upper buttons reboot the instrument cluster, not the touchscreen.

Eh. Lower buttons then. Point being the double reboot was effective. The brake pedal advice was probably for safety back in the day.

I’ve rebooted the touchscreen while driving before. Not the IC.

So... why not email Tesla for answers instead of trying to out-clever the wheel as it were?
 
No, it is the middle buttons. Point being, double boot doesn't happen so I'm not sure where you're getting that. If it did happen, then I'd guess you inadvertently let go of one momentarily and triggered it again.

"why not email Tesla"? And ask what, exactly? My point is that many, many (including you... just above) have explained various ways to trigger this so-called "hard" boot. Some claim they were told to by Tesla, others say they read it here or there, and others say this random thing they tried "worked".

Its all voodoo nonsense. A reset is a reset. Standing on your head and whistling while doing it doesn't change anything. If it did... if there really was a difference... it wouldn't boot up in the exact same time.

"trying to out-clever the wheel"... what's "the wheel" in your scenario?
 
Contacted Tesla and actually, the reboot itself with the pedal is still the right way (pedal + 2 wheels) BUT, and yes there is a but...
You should only remove your foot and fingers off the pedal and wheels when the T appears...
AND THEN
You should power off the car for 3 minute from the settings (and not open any door or do anything).

This will do the proper reboot.
But I do not see how relevant it was as it did not fix my issue.
 
The power off from the E brake screen literally cuts all power to the car and if you wait long enough gmbefore pressing the brake you will hear the high voltage contact era click off and the car will be fully powered down 3-5 min then press the brake.


I’ve had this clear weird hardware issues with my car in the past. One time I was driving on a road trip and the dash went crazy saying emergency braking disabled auto pilot disabled etc etc I pulled over and called Tesla and this was what they asked me to do. Being a computer guy my self this also makes the most sense to me a full power down and wait for the system to fully power down then press the brake petal to power up... I believe my car gave me some kind of systems starting message of some kind saying to wait to press the brake again to start the car while the systems were powering up...
 
The power off from the E brake screen literally cuts all power to the car and if you wait long enough gmbefore pressing the brake you will hear the high voltage contact era click off and the car will be fully powered down 3-5 min then press the brake. .
since you said that with some authority, I figured I better go check. So I did, but I'm still sure you're mistaken. It *can't* possibly have cut all power, for two reasons:. First off, as I said before, the screens come on immediately upon pressing the brake... even the cellular is still active. Second... if power was completely cut, the system would have no way of knowing the brake was pressed.

I left it for seven minutes, btw. I'm sure it's just cutting the HV and nothing to do with the computers at all. It certainly does nothing in terms of a reset.
 
What are you trying to achieve with this reboot what’s broken that your trying to reset?

The reset I described cleared all my hardware issues... while waiting on hold before they instruccted me to power off the car as described above I also did try the scroll wheel reset and the top steering wheel button reset, to reset the dash and center screens but it did not clear my hardware issue... only the full power off did...


I believe the scroll wheel reboot also resets the cellular and WiFi hardware as it usually is unavailable for 30 seconds or so once the screen comes back...
 
What are you trying to achieve with this reboot what’s broken that your trying to reset?
Truth. I'm trying to achieve truth. Nothing is broken in my car... what is broken is the nonsense spewed throughout various forums.

Cause and effect is not always as clear as people think. For example, you say your issue wasn't resolved until the full power off, so therefore you believe the power off was the cause of the fix. But it could have been many things. Time, most notably. Or possibly the power off did do something, but that doesn't mean it is a "hard reset". My whole point is that everyone has their own personal routine of the "correct" way to reset the car, and I still maintain it is all nonsense.

upper buttons reset the instrument cluster computer... done.
middle buttons reset the infotainment computer... done.
menu power off... well, I don't think that resets anything with the computers, but perhaps by powering down the high voltage systems it also resets some sensors and that may have some resolving effect for certain conditions.
menu factory reset... that is the only one that obviously does a full reset and clears memory to some degree.


There's no indication at all that brakes or number of resets or time buttons are held (longer than triggering the reset) does anything at all.
 
BTW, I'm not saying the four resets do nothing. I want to be clear on that. I'm sure they DO resolve many issues! I'm just saying there is no special way of engaging a different level of reset ("press the brake HARD" is a common one that has me shaking my head). So @Tech_Guy, I'm not at all arguing that a power reset didn't resolve your problem (I was suggesting that it *may* have been coincidence, but likely not). It certainly is one of the four things to try.

For *any* weirdness, I'd suggest doing the three primary resets (top buttons, middle buttons, power off) because they're quick and easy and don't have any inconveniences associated with them beyond having to wait for wireless connectivity to return. The final one (full factory reset) I would advise if the other three didn't work... but know that it clears your settings and takes quite a long time to complete.

I *would* suggest the factory reset if your car isn't receiving updates, as I recently posted. It was possibly coincidence, but I'm fairly sure that the reset triggered the update despite Tesla (and forums) telling me there's no way to do that.
 
upper buttons reset the instrument cluster computer... done.
middle buttons reset the infotainment computer... done.
menu power off... well, I don't think that resets anything with the computers, but perhaps by powering down the high voltage systems it also resets some sensors and that may have some resolving effect for certain conditions.
menu factory reset... that is the only one that obviously does a full reset and clears memory to some degree.


There's no indication at all that brakes or number of resets or time buttons are held (longer than triggering the reset) does anything at all.


I agree with you the 3 main methods you list are all that is available to reset the car without fully factory resetting the car. Also with mentioning the 2 listed steering wheel resets can be done while driving but the power off option in the end ale menu requires you to pull over and park your car.

I do not think that doing the resets multiple times while standing on your head :rolleyes: or standing on the brake petal do anything different then what the standard reset methods you desribed!
 
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