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Has anybody filled the gaps between glass panels and glass/roof with black silicon?

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Hey, that tool looks awesome; thank you very much. I'll buy it for sure. So which of the many appendages would you use??? I guess it might be better to leave a slight curved indentation (vs flat), at least between the glass panels, where the gaps are small. But the gaps between glass panels and painted surfaces are much larger, so maybe flat there? By the way, where in NM do you live? I live in El Paso, so if you live in Las Cruces (or closer), by any chance, we could do a 'caulking party'. Ha ha. Thanks again for your help. I think this would be the best solution by far. I don't want to do the side of the windshield, because it's very possible to need a new one in the future, so just the top with silicon would make it much easier to remove. Plus I'd probably use a blade to cut it right next to the windshield glass, leaving the silicon as a guide to position the new windshield exactly where the factory one was, no? So when are you thinking of doing this?
In my mind, WITH tape along both sides of every seam, a shallow concave (perhaps 1mm below the surface) is probably the best compromise between ensuring you push the caulking down into the seam, and being easy enough to get a smooth appearance with the least turbulence.
 
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So, has anyone filled the gaps with black silicon? I'm going to do so and I want to hear any cons.
As described above, it is not so hard: masking tape, rubber spatula, tool for silicon tube. I did it several times in bathrooms in every new rental flat :)
There is no need to worry about the level, the silicon is quite smooth and the masking tape is very thin
 
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Couldn't measure the effect today due to very windy weather, but the placebo effect is definitely present)

I made a mistake doing this: didn't remove the masking tape right after filling or after 30 minutes (better try somewhere what is the best option for your silicon, sometimes it's ok to remove the tape right after application). I was tired and left it till the next day and even till the afternoon and got 2 problems:
  1. The masking tape left a lot of glue on the glass.
  2. Silicon for aquariums didn't stick perfectly to the masking tape, so after removing the tape I had to slice a thin "extra layer" (see some leftovers on the last photo)
So I had a prolonged BDSM session today. Antisilicon helped remove the glue and the blade from the construction knife was handy while removing bits and pieces of silicon. In real life looks not so bad. I can say: difficult to see that something is wrong or "not as Tesla manufactured".
I'll check if there is any change in wind noise blocking (I have 2 measures on the same road at a constant speed of 100 km/h), but it anyway will be useful for me in winter - ice won't have extra places to freeze to.
 

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Tried to compare results, the weather was I guess similar to the previous test run, and traffic was a little bit different but I was able to keep 100 km/h on the same road section. The phone was "held" by the right sun visor.
In my opinion: a little bit better than it was before
noise.png
 
Tried to compare results, the weather was I guess similar to the previous test run, and traffic was a little bit different but I was able to keep 100 km/h on the same road section. The phone was "held" by the right sun visor.
In my opinion: a little bit better than it was before
View attachment 964128
Wow that’s not nothing! I understand 1db is hard to perceive, but it probably makes a difference in fatigue on longer drives, and for audiophiles may increase clarity.
 
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melvladimir, Thank you for having the guts to try this. I purchased the gasket but know it won't turn out this nice and level at all. I'm ordering the silicon now and will report back. I feel the 1mm concave is the best vs as level as possible. BTW, I feel that silicon is one of the safest products for clear coats.
 
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Tried to compare results, the weather was I guess similar to the previous test run, and traffic was a little bit different but I was able to keep 100 km/h on the same road section. The phone was "held" by the right sun visor.
In my opinion: a little bit better than it was before
View attachment 964128
I would say that's within the margin of error. 1dB is going to be almost imperceptible.

I should note the A-pillar noise does not come from the glass. Rather it comes from air getting into the A-pillar through the base. As per this thread:
Solved: wind noise

If you haven't tried that fix. I would suggest to try that.

The other source of noise (whistling) is when the mirror is loose. Some have fixed by applying a gasket or tape.
2021 Model 3 wind/whistling noise

These fixes can be tested by using tape to simulate it first than applying a more permanent fix.