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Has anyone repaired cooling louvers?

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#123
update: this is weird.

So I wanted to manually open the flaps, which can be done when car in deep sleep. Left the car for over an hour and aproached it with no key. But I did use my app to open the trunk prior, to get some stuff out. Then I moved to front of the car and noticed flaps are MOVING.
I repeated the process just this time with front drivers door open/close (but no entry) and again, flaps MOVED.

So they are not moving on entering, starting AC, during SuC...

Next I wanna "hard reset" the car and/or unplug the F22 fuse "Thermal system controls". Its a PIA because this fuses are in a box next to air filter and I am not sure how to reach them? Would unplugging the 12V positive for 30mins do the job of "hard resetting"?
 
#124
Problem fixed.
Now I know why my Homelink module did not work.
It was not connected and was blocking the louvres!
Nice craftmanship in Freemont!
 

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#125
LonelyMS said:
update: this is weird.

So I wanted to manually open the flaps, which can be done when car in deep sleep. Left the car for over an hour and aproached it with no key. But I did use my app to open the trunk prior, to get some stuff out. Then I moved to front of the car and noticed flaps are MOVING.
I repeated the process just this time with front drivers door open/close (but no entry) and again, flaps MOVED.

So they are not moving on entering, starting AC, during SuC...

Next I wanna "hard reset" the car and/or unplug the F22 fuse "Thermal system controls". Its a PIA because this fuses are in a box next to air filter and I am not sure how to reach them? Would unplugging the 12V positive for 30mins do the job of "hard resetting"?
Click to expand...
That's EXACTLY my observation...going around car with my key in the pocket and both louvers continuously opening/closing. Therefore it doesn't seem to me like a HW issue. All of the louvers same behavior, that's also strange.
Regarding the third fusebox, you have to remove the filter box housing or at least some bolts on it and then it was reachable - badly, but it was feasible to remove the fuse. Nevertheless to me it didn't help. But I didn't turn the car off, so you may try it.
Bogd said:
Problem fixed.
Now I know why my Homelink module did not work.
It was not connected and was blocking the louvres!
Nice craftmanship in Freemont!
Click to expand...
Cool! Welcome to Tesla design :'D
 
#126
ResHacker said:
That's EXACTLY my observation...going around car with my key in the pocket and both louvers continuously opening/closing. Therefore it doesn't seem to me like a HW issue. All of the louvers same behavior, that's also strange.
Regarding the third fusebox, you have to remove the filter box housing or at least some bolts on it and then it was reachable - badly, but it was feasible to remove the fuse. Nevertheless to me it didn't help. But I didn't turn the car off, so you may try it.

Cool! Welcome to Tesla design :'D
Click to expand...
It’s very frustrating. I’m thinking there’s obviously a feedback problem - the ‘Rad’ shutters only seem to thunk once, but the ‘Cond’ shutters cycle a few times - seemingly attempting to self calibrate but then giving up and generating the error

I really wish there was a menu where you could individually address and move/calibrate each one
 
#127
LonelyMS said:
update: this is weird.

So I wanted to manually open the flaps, which can be done when car in deep sleep. Left the car for over an hour and aproached it with no key. But I did use my app to open the trunk prior, to get some stuff out. Then I moved to front of the car and noticed flaps are MOVING.
I repeated the process just this time with front drivers door open/close (but no entry) and again, flaps MOVED.

So they are not moving on entering, starting AC, during SuC...

Next I wanna "hard reset" the car and/or unplug the F22 fuse "Thermal system controls". Its a PIA because this fuses are in a box next to air filter and I am not sure how to reach them? Would unplugging the 12V positive for 30mins do the job of "hard resetting"?
Click to expand...
What I did while mine were broken was when I was plugged into a SC I'd reach my hand under the PS frunk and disconnect the whole umbilical cord for the front number harness. Then I'd manually open them and it would allow it to cool things while charging. Then I'd reconnect it before leaving so the sensors for cruise would work and the louvers would close. Mine worked but they were in a permanent closed regardless of what the car told them to do.

Also a full hard reset you need to disconnect the 12v and the fireman's loop with one door open then 15 min later plug fireman's loop then 12v sometimes the alarm sounds so be ready with the key fob and that will do a super hard reset. That's how I cleared the error when my power steering went out.
 
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#128
Guys, I also have the obd scanner and harness so I can check data via scan my tesla.

Is there anything useful for debugging the louver "issues"?

What I could check is the temp of the battery while SuC and see if it cools down, etc? What is the "normal" temperature of it?
 
#129
richrootes said:
It’s very frustrating. I’m thinking there’s obviously a feedback problem - the ‘Rad’ shutters only seem to thunk once, but the ‘Cond’ shutters cycle a few times - seemingly attempting to self calibrate but then giving up and generating the error

I really wish there was a menu where you could individually address and move/calibrate each one
Click to expand...
Yes, that's possible with the calibration...but then it might be somehow connected with the pos sensing potentiometer.. I'll probably disassemble one of them and deeply inspect it.. Such menu exists in Toolbox I believe, but that's not easily accessible.
LonelyMS said:
Guys, I also have the obd scanner and harness so I can check data via scan my tesla.

Is there anything useful for debugging the louver "issues"?

What I could check is the temp of the battery while SuC and see if it cools down, etc? What is the "normal" temperature of it?
Click to expand...
I believe the car tries to always keep temp up to 40deg C, but once while driving I had up to 46deg C, using SMT tool.
Useful are the temps, and you have there position of all of the louvers. So when the louvers are moving, it might be useful to log those values ..not a bad idea either ;)
 
#136
Than you. It seems by ordering the refresh harness I have different horn connectors, not just pigtails. Great, another part or adapter to buy/fabricate.
Have asked the vendor if the actuators will remain a permanent item in their store for others to order.
 
#139
maximizese said:
I could physically stick my hand through the left and right louvers. I wasn't able to physically verify the center but I ran the Thermal test in Service Mode and verified it was in proper working order. However, the test did signal the SHUTTER_RIGHT_RADIATOR as a failure. Interesting that there's differentiation between the left and right shutters for the radiator and condenser...I figured they were the same.
Click to expand...
Hi! how long does the thermal test take to finish? thanks
 
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