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2015 Model S - Remove, Test and Replace Front Louver

2015 Model S - Remove, Test and Replace Front Louver

I outlined in a previous post how the passenger side louver was broken on the 85D here:
3000+ mile road trip in the 85D

I did not know about these louvers until after the near death of the 85D in the Mojave desert.
After I was home I found the driver side louver was always closed and the passenger side was hanging open and all busted up.

Driver side louver, I never saw it open before the tear-down.


The passenger side was hanging open and broken.


As a guide for removal of the fascia, I used this video primarily:
Tesla Model S bumper removal How To

Getting the S apart and putting it back together was fun but draining. Once I had the fascia off I was able to get to the louvers and clean up the radiators.


Since I did not want to remove the harness completely, I just swung the fascia around toward the passenger side. This was just before I cleaned out all of the bugs, but you can see how clean the driver side condenser is. I was testing to see if I had +12V where I expected it on the louver connectors. Sadly, I popped off the driver side sensor. It went back on with epoxy.


i like $5 fixes instead of $200 fixes, but I was skeptical if the cheap fix would hold up. It didn't. I didn't really expect it to, but the fin gear that i epoxied didn't hold up to the air pressure while driving. My epoxy fix just didn't hack the mission.



However... the $5 fix was well worth it because it proved the sub-system worked. When I had it back together, before going out on the road, everything else was working correctly. I had the mobile charger plugged in and going & the a/c was on in the car in the garage and the fins opened up together like I would have expected. So, that means that I know that the only problem is this busted fin gear. The ~$200 dollar new louver will fix the issue correctly and completely. Knowing that is worth the $5 and a weekend of tearing it apart.

Additionally.... some idiot has had this apart before. As I took this apart, I found missing screws, missing pop-nuts (or whatever they are called), mis-matched screws and bolts, wrong screws, an EXTRA screw that fell out of ?somewhere? that did not match any of the other hardware. Not to get too high on my soapbox but that kind of laziness and sloppiness irritates the **** out of me.

Also, if you read my thread about the trip it still gets me really spun-up that the Tesla service people did not see this when i had it in for service and asked them very specifically to check the car over for problems before the trip. They acted like they were patting a kindergartner on the head when they told me how smart the car was and that they checked the tire pressure for me.

I have a request in to Tesla parts to see how much the passenger louver is and when I can get it. At the Plano TX facility you have to send them an email to request a part. No response back so far after about 72 hours.

I found a few louvers on Fleabay and will probably pull the trigger on those soon since I have little confidence that I will hear back from Tesla.

I will update this thread when I get the part in and get it installed. It might be a couple of weekends until I do.

Hope you find this of some value.

2015 Model S 85D with 51k miles

Side note: While I had the Model S all apart I called the local fire station and asked the fire crew if they had ever seen a Tesla and if they wanted a view of it and the couple of areas that are marked for firemen for rescue purposes. They jumped at the chance, so I had a good number of firemen in my garage that I was able to give my limited knowledge of the Model S to about the cut loop and the rear driver door cut area. They really had no idea about much of the car, so I thought it was a good outing for them to see it.
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Some background information:

ACTIVE LOUVRE ASSEMBLY - RIGHT 1007269-00-F (the one I need, the passenger side)
ACTIVE LOUVRE ASSEMBLY - LEFT 1007268-00-F (the driver side)

What I did not realize previously is that the fans on the left and the right side bring air through the left and right radiators through the louvers above but also through the main center radiator through the third center louver system in this car.

I saw this when I had it apart but did not realize the routing of the air. The center louver covers the back section of the center radiator and there is a louver on both ends. Now that I know what I am looking for I see the electric motors for each louver in the pictures of the front end.

I have no idea if these center louvers are working properly. I will have to check them when I get the front section back apart.
Here is a view of the parts breakout or assembly drawing of the air distribution system

Tesla-MS-2015-Louvers-Right-Left-Center-Screenshot from 2021-07-17 18-08-37.png

When installed in the car, the 3 radiators cut this drawing roughly in half from top left to bottom right. The 2 fans sit behind the large air ducts on both sides.

The rest of the numbers and this drawing can be found at:

under the heading:
Model S Feb 2012 - Mar 2016 / 18 - THERMAL MANAGEMENT / 1850 - Air Distribution Cooling System and Air Ducting
  • Informative
Reactions: Xenoilphobe
this is excellent.. im am doing this on my p85d 2015.. both louvres is f...ked up because of a car firm repainted the front of the car before my time. so i have to replace them. got new louvres.

can you explain alittle more how to test that they work? not sure what triggers them to open/close
I had similar situation, both louvers were broken. I used a ss wire to support the epoxy fix that @broncoremy explains, sorry don’t have photos as have had no time to get them of the car. My passenger side fix failed also, it does not hold that firmly and it pokes open with every drive. Although if the car cycles them both sides does open and close as should.
You can check the functions if you plug in your car for charging or if the car opens connector to charge your 12V battery or during a software update. I have noticed that they also cycle on my car when I get to my car and the fob unlocks it. perhaps my 12V is so weak already that each revoke opens the the connector for charging.

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