Has anyone repaired cooling louvers?

[LonelyMS]

See this post, thread

Toolbox 2 connection trouble

I do have a subscription, how to i get toolbox 2? @Hamen the TB2 version that is available from Tesla indeed works, but it is lacking a ton of functions. I managed to get the old TB2 version with every function available (the so called offline version), but I am not sure if it will work with...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[LonelyMS]

Now this is odd.

I no longer have the both shutters error, only the left one.
When I reboot the car (via change the rim option), I can see left one cycle open/close, but the right on is stuck closed. My POV is in front of the car.

How is tesla naming them, left/right, from the drivers POV or from outside the car?

Now I did have a minor accident a few weeks ago on the same side as the stuck one is. Accident kinda “removed” the bumper from the side and also the parking sensor was torn out of the harness and the housing. Maybe because of this also the louver wont move? Can I see the harness/cable connectes to the louver without removing the bumper? Maybe to remove the frunk?

 

[LonelyMS]

Useful video

 

[KalJoMoS]

Can I see the harness/cable connectes to the louver without removing the bumper? Maybe to remove the frunk?

No, better look underneat. You can’t see the side lovers with the frunk removed. This is also one of the section if you need to remove the bumper. Get on four-point lift and unbolt the front section of the underbelly - it’s the section crossing from side to side. As you are not releasing the rest of the bumper you then need to pry this open as the front of the underbelly is quite firmly clipped on the front facia. Not good approach but achievable.

 

[kirkusss]

Anyone managed to replace one of the actuators on the front condenser? Just got one error and not sure if this is also related to my now way slower supercharging… If not, I saw this isn’t a DYI job as the system needs to be purged and radiators removed.

 

[r1200gs4ok]

Anyone managed to replace one of the actuators on the front condenser? Just got one error and not sure if this is also related to my now way slower supercharging… If not, I saw this isn’t a DYI job as the system needs to be purged and radiators removed.

not sure, but with the latest update, my supercharging has slowed down to where I can not get over 89kW charging speeds...

 

[kirkusss]

Same here…jumps at 130kW just to drop in few seconds to 90…. Very unpleasant

 

[ResHacker]

Same here…jumps at 130kW just to drop in few seconds to 90…. Very unpleasant

Whaat? You say guys that Tesla triggered new nerfing on 85s packs? I stopped sw updates on the version where I can open the diag port but would be very sad if they send it also to 100packs...And what Im also wondering about, why would they do that on packs which are out of warranty now....safety?

 

[LonelyMS]

Same here…jumps at 130kW just to drop in few seconds to 90…. Very unpleasant

Which tesla exactly do you own?

 

[kirkusss]

Whaat? You say guys that Tesla triggered new nerfing on 85s packs? I stopped sw updates on the version where I can open the diag port but would be very sad if they send it also to 100packs...And what Im also wondering about, why would they do that on packs which are out of warranty now....safety?

Or making people jumping in newer cars
I know that mine was doing pretty well in the supercharging side, from where the unpleasant surprise. Was checking the data in teslafi and can confirm the additional nerfing. Not sure if other packs are targeted, but haven’t heard of any. Even the 75s are now charging a lot faster and probably are around the same capacity with a used 85.

Which tesla exactly do you own?

2015 85D, MCU2 with latest update, 2024.2.7

 

[LonelyMS]

Thats odd @kirkusss ... afaik all olders Tesla's (based on 85 kwh packs) were nerfed years ago?

 

[LonelyMS]

and...FYI, 75's are newer packs that are not nerfed, or exatly, were nerfed but then tesla change it back to being "un-nerfed"...

 

[kirkusss]

Is there a consensus on what is the right side vs left?
My car seems to have both right condenser and rad having issues. At the same time, after supercharging the displayed ambient temp is crazy high and the temp sensor is supposed to be on left side (driver).
Wonder if they are linked (also have burnt plastic smell in the morning during preconditioning in the garage). Closer and closer to a dumpster fire…

 

[LonelyMS]

No sorry, i also asked how Tesla names these louvers, if the view is from infront of the car, or from the drivers position....and nobody answered

My gueeeeessss is its from infront of the car. But i might be wrong :/

 

[kirkusss]

I’ll need to do a full revamp on mine, but for now I am guessing the right is on the driver side, just based on the temp sensor reading. Will remove the frunk, start preconditioning and check if something is indeed melting and if the radiator actuator is easily reachable

 

[tldickerson]

Usually in the automotive industry the driver's side is considered the left side of the car. If Tesla is any different I wouldn't be surprised.

 

[richrootes]

I’ll need to do a full revamp on mine, but for now I am guessing the right is on the driver side, just based on the temp sensor reading. Will remove the frunk, start preconditioning and check if something is indeed melting and if the radiator actuator is easily reachable

The radiator actuators are easily accessible once the frunk is out

They’re the same part as those fitted to the condenser louvres

Once the weather warms up, I intend swapping them over to see what happens

 

[kirkusss]

Have removed the plug on the driver side, same error on for the right side.
Have unplugged the passenger one, the left rad error came on.
Have swapped the driver one with another actuator and now both are erroring out. It feels the system is messing with me.
After a termal test the ambient temp shown in the dash was 20 degrees Celsius (real temp outside is 5…) and the following errors were on, see the difference between service menu and thermal test…

 

[kirkusss]

Is there a way to test the actuators on a bench? Or they cannot operate without the can/lin signal?

 

[ResHacker]

Is there a way to test the actuators on a bench? Or they cannot operate without the can/lin signal?

I believe there certainly is a way if you will simulate the LIN signals properly using ie Arduino or similar ucontroller. Nevertheless I thing the problem is a Tesla bug and if the actuators aren't physically damaged, then it will be most likely on the SW side of the car.