Hi, Do you guys cover the HV battery? And what the cap on milage?XCare can help. Check us out at www.xcelerateauto.com/xcare Cheers, Brent @ XCare
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Hi, Do you guys cover the HV battery? And what the cap on milage?XCare can help. Check us out at www.xcelerateauto.com/xcare Cheers, Brent @ XCare
Matt,Hi everyone!
If I may ask for the help of the Tesla think tank (and please be kind- this is my first post and I promise I'll poke around and learn more- I'm a dork pilot who loves technical stuff! and time is sorta of the essence) I was wondering if this is a good idea to buy:
2015 P90D (it's underlined which I don't really know or understand what that means)
122k miles
Black on Black
Turbine wheels
AP1
Premium sound
Roughly 29.5k
The questions I have like all newbie, non-EV, ICE type of guy:
How can I tell if this is a good car?
Is there any way to have some insights into the battery and how long it'll last?
Being a high-performance car, what can I look for as far as the motor goes and the general state of the condition it's in?
What other mechanical items should I look out for? HVAC? Braking system? Power steering?
How much more "ohh laward this thing is fast" is the underlined cars vs the P cars?
I live in the PHX area; is there anyone around who can fix these batteries?
Generally speaking how durable are these cars? Can an average guy or mechanic fix most things that are not HV battery related?
I've read all the consumer reports about how "bad" these model S cars are; ok real talk; how bad are they?
Is this car a generally bad egg to buy? What makes a "good buy" in the older model S series?
I thank and appreciate any responses the think tank can give. I truly hope this is like the small GA airplane community- lots of knowledge is stored up in the memory banks and that often flows freely to newbies who ask decent questions (not that I'm an old sage pilot; but if anyone has questions about 1966 Cessna 210's I'm your guy!)
Thank you kindly,
matt
These are all super fair points and I totally understand, however my budget is around the 30k mark and that car you described just doesn't exist. And that the fundamental problem with an older car; as they age, the price comes down but I keep hearing how you can't keep them for these motor and battery issues. So I guess the issue is that; take a risk and hope it doesn't need a costly repair? How many of these cars need these heady repairs? Do people take the risk and hope for the best? or should I look at a model 3 and get one with plenty of warranty left on it?Matt,
Most everyone has answered or tried to answer your questions, but I'll throw some thought in this as well.
The car in question is priced well because the cost to repair is so high, and it's either already out of warranty or will be this year. You'll likely eek out a few tens of thousands of miles (ideally much more) before anything catastrophic happens; however, when something does, you're, as my Mom would say, *sugar* out of luck.
In my opinion, owning anything sub-100kWh pack out of warranty is going to come back and bit you in the ass (at some point!). Drive units are upwards of $10k to replace, and the HV battery is either $15k or $22k to replace depending on whether or not you want a refurbished pack or a new pack. There are companies that can do the replacements for cheaper than Tesla (the prices I quoted), so there's that, too, but you're still measuring the cost in the thousands of dollars. Through Tesla, on the HV packs, you'll get a 4yr 50k mile warranty so there's value in that, at least.
Keep in mind, warranties on the older ones are 8yrs unlimited miles, and I want to say at some point they got rid of the "unlimited" miles, but I may be speaking out of my ass on that. Someone can confirm.
My 2c - spring for a 100kWh packed car, performance or otherwise and avoid the 3. Look for one that has a warranty stretching into 2025, find one with limited battery degradation (more important that overall mileage), transferrable full-self driving (you can limit the car to what you're comfortable with it taking control of), and if you are lucky, find one that has perforated leather seats (cooling/heating). They exist, at nearly 2x the cost of this example you found, but they'll hold their value and treat you better.
Some food for thought anyways...
These are all super fair points and I totally understand, however my budget is around the 30k mark and that car you described just doesn't exist. And that the fundamental problem with an older car; as they age, the price comes down but I keep hearing how you can't keep them for these motor and battery issues. So I guess the issue is that; take a risk and hope it doesn't need a costly repair? How many of these cars need these heady repairs? Do people take the risk and hope for the best? or should I look at a model 3 and get one with plenty of warranty left on it?
There's no need to lift the car. You can see the sticker on the battery pack if you look behind the front passenger wheel.Ahh very good! It's a dealership so I don't mind paying for them to lift the car and take a peak! Thanks for the pointers!
I actually did get the sticker off the car and I think it's a V1 battery pack... not good. I think? Also here is couple if pictures from the battery, any insight is this is a crappy car?There's no need to lift the car. You can see the sticker on the battery pack if you look behind the front passenger wheel.
For me personally, I would get an S but spend a little more and find something with warranty.
Fair enough, so to confuse this tread even more; if you had to choose between the car I listed or something like this:Another option to consider is a used Model 3 Performance. Acceleration is comparable to the S you're looking at, and it would be a newer car with better technology and lower mileage (most likely).
I have a 75D and a 100D. The P100D with ludicrous is so much faster. It's not close. The 75D is fast, I think 0-60 is in the 4 second range. The P100D with ludicrous can do it in way less than 3 seconds, and that's a big difference.
Depends if the 75D is uncorked or not. Uncorked, it is 4.2.2.8sec 0-60mph in the P90DL versus 5.2sec 0-60 in the 75D
Good point; the thing that stinks is I'll always know for a little more cash I could massively different ownership experience.... damn I hate the old car, is well... old. Or if it had a new battery and motor... shoot. The car I found for 28k that is a 2017 75D seems like it's in decent shape, any thoughts on it?When I dropped off my P100DL for the EMCCD chip replacement they gave me a 75D as a loaner, and it's fine. You can still whip around people on the highway well enough, but they're not comparable cars in terms of straight line performance for sure. Still fun though.
What is uncorked? Can that be done at anytime?Depends if the 75D is uncorked or not. Uncorked, it is 4.2.
Good point; the thing that stinks is I'll always know for a little more cash I could massively different ownership experience.... damn I hate the old car, is well... old. Or if it had a new battery and motor... shoot. The car I found for 28k that is a 2017 75D seems like it's in decent shape, any thoughts on it?
At some point Tesla boosted the performance of their cars. Some out in the wild were able to also be increased for free - mine excludedWhat is uncorked? Can that be done at anytime?
On Manheim, I can get a 2015+ Model S with tens of thousands less miles for nearly the same price ...fwiwGood point; the thing that stinks is I'll always know for a little more cash I could massively different ownership experience.... damn I hate the old car, is well... old. Or if it had a new battery and motor... shoot. The car I found for 28k that is a 2017 75D seems like it's in decent shape, any thoughts on it?
Good info so far. I still feel like a noob although I've had my Tesla since 2020 and have been researching them well before that. With that being said, my main priority was to find one with warranty, especially battery/ drive unit warranty.
Have you seen the car? Is it in good shape? It really surprises me but my car has 88k miles on it and some of the loaners I've had have half the miles but are ROUGH. You can usually tell when a car has been taken care of.
Pros-
That price is great. I'm tempted to ask if it's been in a previous accident but I would assume you (or the owner) would have mentioned that. The underline does indeed stand for Ludicrous, which is as fast as they get for that year.
Cons-
I hear the 90 batteries are the most... finicky? I don't want to use a word to scare you, but you can do some digging here and find the early versions have had some issues. Is it on the original battery? That would be a big hit out of warranty. A big hit...
It would be hard to pass up, but I don't think I would buy it. But like I said, to me, warranty was the most important item on my checklist. My purchase was a bit out of my means but I could stretch it, I couldn't however stretch a 15k+ repair bill.