Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Blog How I Created My DIY Clear Aero Wheel Covers

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
It all started at a Tesla service center in Vancouver BC in the summer of 2016 when I was talking to an employee about the wheels. I asked why there was a difference between the 19-inch wheels and the 21-inch wheels in terms of efficiency. The rep told me it had to do with the contact patch, as well as having more of a flat face on the 19 inch wheel. That got my mind going on this idea of covering the whole wheel to see what kind of benefit you get.

I started searching the internet to see if this kind of thing existed. I found out there were some existing products but they were not the best looking and did not fit 21 inch rims. After looking at some products used in the trucking industry I decided I wanted to make a cover that was as close to invisible as possible. I got some helpful hints from what I saw the truckers using and decided polycarbonate was the material I needed.

The next goal was to figure out how to attach a sheet of polycarbonate to the wheel. I did not want to have to modify the wheel at all, no drilling into the rims or drilling lug nuts required. After much thought on this subject, I decided the best way was to make a bracket that could be bolted on using the lug nuts that hold the wheel in place. I lucked out as there was just enough room to tuck some metal under the lug nuts and also leave enough room to still get your socket on the nuts for tightening and loosening them on and off. I found a 3D print shop and told them what I was thinking and they scanned my 21 inch rim and modeled up a bracket for me. They also 3D-printed a plastic model of the bracket. Plastic was not going to be strong enough, as the walls get pretty thin to pass the lug nuts.

Next was to find a CNC shop to machine 4 of these brackets out of aluminum for me. I contacted my uncle who works in this field and he directed me to a friend who he used to work with who had opened his own machine shop. After my uncle made some adjustments to the model he sent it to his friend’s shop and they cut 4 brackets for me out of billet aluminum. Before the brackets were ready, I used the 3D printed plastic prototype to get the polycarbonate sheets ready. I cut them to size using a band saw and a router. I had a spare 21 inch turbine wheel with no tire on it that I could use to router out the exact size of the rim. The 3D printed prototype was used to line up the holes for bolting the polycarbonate sheet to the bracket.

Bracket2.jpg


Components.jpg


The CNC machined brackets cost about $250 Cdn each, the polycarbonate is about $140 Cdn a sheet and I can make two sets per sheet. The retention plates cost me $35 Cdn for a set of 4. Then $10 Cdn for hardware.

It took a while to get the brackets from the machine shop, but once I had them it was time to bolt them on the car and do some testing. The bracket turned out great, it bolts to the car nicely and gives a great surface to mount the clear face to. At first I just used bolts with washers to attach the clear face to the bracket and I was getting some cracks on the clear face. I needed larger washers or a plate that would hold the face more stable at high speeds. So I got my uncle to model a retention plate for me and I got him to put the letters ‘EV’ on them. EV works in two ways for me; first my name is Evan so it works for that but also, as we all know, EV is electric vehicle! Once I added this plate to the assembly the clear cover was held properly and there is no more cracking at high speeds.

Cover.jpg


Now it was testing time. Before any testing I would do a trip to warm the car up. Being in Canada, this is often needed. I am located about 2 kilometers from Highway 401 in southern Ontario, so I can easily get to the highway and then set the cruise control to do a proper test trip. I am also fortunate enough to have a supercharger about 63 kilometers to the west of me just off the 401 and another supercharger about 90 kilometers to the east of me also just off of the 401. So these locations became my halfway points for multiple test runs.

I would only have 2 kilometers of stop-and-go driving, then at least 63 kilometers of highway driving with the cruise control set at either 110 or 120 km/h. Then upon exiting the highway I would have maybe 1 kilometers of stop-and-go to get to the supercharger. I would note the wh/km that the car reports at the time of hitting the exit ramp and then again when I reached my destination, either the supercharger or back at home. Every test run would give four data points. I would do a run with the covers on to get my four data points and then I would do that same route with the covers off. This would give me four more data points.

There were times when I hit traffic and would have to slow down but for the majority of the drive I would keep the cruise set at my desired speed. I also made sure to use the same amount of auxiliary energy draw. I only had the radio on, no heat or AC and I kept the seat heat on for all the rides, windows and sunroof closed the whole time. Have a look at the chart for performance numbers.

21″ Covers to Port Hope Supercharger at 110km/h

















Test

 Wh/km (covers)

 Wh/km (no covers)

 Improvement





Ramp

182

190

4.21%





Charger

177

186

4.84%





Ramp

183

200

8.50%





Home

179

197

9.14%







21″ Covers to Kingston Supercharger at 120km/h

















 Test

 Wh/km (covers)

 Wh/km (no covers)

 Improvement





Ramp

194

209

7.18%





Charger

189

205

7.80%





Ramp

198

212

6.60%





Home

193

207

6.76%







So from what I have gathered, these covers do improve efficiency considerably, which I expected since this is not a new idea. The new part of my idea is the fact that they are clear and are used on a fully electric vehicle.

We now know that the Model 3 will have aero covers on the base model, which Tesla claims will improve efficiency by up to 10 percent. The Tesla Semi also has wheels with a flat face to them. I wonder why?

During my testing, I noted the biggest improvement when driving into a headwind. I saw about 9 percent better efficiency in the headwind situation that day, so Tesla’s claims seem to be about right in my books.

cover2.jpg


I would say that yes one of the downsides to having these on is that the brake dust collects more on the wheel. However, you do not need to completely remove them to clean the wheel, you just need to remove the 5 small bolts, take the clear face off and you can clean the wheel and check your air pressure.

I hope you like the covers and learned a little about this DIY project. Thanks for reading!

TMC Member evogreen is a Model S owner based in Trenton, Ontario.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Supercharging. The brakes are almost never used in a tesla, and at speed airflow is good enough that it doesn't matter - a side effect of the massively oversized brembo racing discs is they dissipate heat extremely quickly because that's the entire purpose of big racing brakes. If you're tracking your car with regen turned completely off and discover a way to keep a tesla running on a track for more than 5 minutes so you actually do heat up the brakes, take off the moon discs first. Second, tell me how you managed to get the car to run on a track, I'd love to see what my car can do on a second lap.

When supercharging, heat from the battery is vented to teh front wheel wells, which is why there are vents on the car cover. Tesla does not expect your brakes to get hot when parked and covered, but the well area can when parked, covered, and supercharging. The venting is not there to cool the wheels, it's there to vent the entire wheel well area, and when parked and covered there is no airflow beyond the car's own fans to push air out of the wheel well which is why they put those vents on the car cover.
 
Last edited:
The next goal was to figure out how to attach a sheet of polycarbonate to the wheel. I did not want to have to modify the wheel at all, no drilling into the rims or drilling lug nuts required. After much thought on this subject, I decided the best way was to make a bracket that could be bolted on using the lug nuts that hold the wheel in place.
In addition to the center holes for the lug nuts, there seem to be a number of holes around the outer edge of the cover. In the photos, you can see dots that look like rivets or screw heads, but are probably some kind of clip? Is the outer edge attached to the rim?
 
My question stands as is, what do you want to compare? Here's the list.
The Tesla Model S Wheel Guide

Most posts say the 19" stock tires are about 3-5% better than the non-staggered 21" and 5-7% better than the staggered. About what you expect given the widths of the tires and the different tire types.
This is what I want to see..
IMG_9205.jpg

The Wh/km (mi would be nice but i can convert;)) data for OEM 19" Cyclones (no covers). But it looks like it's already out there somewhere @ 5-7% better than the staggered turbines, as you stated.
 
Old is new again. From the early 60s moon disks were popular wheel covers. Back then it was for style or for high speed salt flat runs.

We need something as simple for EVs.

your showing your age, if you remember correctly we used to use small screws into the lip of the steel wheel to hold them in place! Damn, I just showed mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kacey Green
In addition to the center holes for the lug nuts, there seem to be a number of holes around the outer edge of the cover. In the photos, you can see dots that look like rivets or screw heads, but are probably some kind of clip? Is the outer edge attached to the rim?
They look like rubber stops to avoid chatter and rub of the plastic disk against the wheel
 
A very creative project! However, have you considered the issue of lug nut torque? The "S" is heavy and the electric drive produces huge torque, all of which requires the lug nuts to be torqued to 130 ft/lbs, which is higher than conventional cars. With your custom bracket mounted on the lugs, you've got the equivalent of a washer between the nuts and the rim that is made of material that is either more flexible or less flexible than the rim's material, and this could affect the necessary torque rating required to hold both in place, and might affect the ability of the lug nuts to stay tight if there is any flex happening when the wheels are under severe drive-torque. For safety sake it would be prudent to periodically check to see if there has been any loosening of the lug nuts as you clock mileage on your design. It might also be instructive to check your design with a technical mechanic (racing mechanics are often the best to talk to since they are usually very technical) to see what they have to say about adding something between the nuts and the rim.

One suggestion for you: Have you considered a modified design that uses standard lug nuts like the ones used on the newer "S" that use a decorative plastic cap over the lug? Using these nuts leaves spare lug exposed (when the plastic caps are absent), which might be used to attach a simple mounting plate on the top of the nuts that hold the rim. This way, the lug nuts can continue to grip the rim directly as normal using the standard torque setting. Just a thought; don't know if it would work.

Cheers!