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How much super charging is considered too much for good battery health

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Cutting it so close between super chargers seems risky

Ok I want to arrive at the next charger with exactly 5%, what if a storm and strong wind comes up before I get there? Now I won’t be able make it.

I would like it to say I’ll arrive at the charger with 20-30% left so I’m prepared for unexpected things that will hit my range
Do what makes you comfortable, but you are costing yourself time. After several long road trips I use this easy strategy. If the next SC I plan to stop at is 100 miles away I aim to arrive at 10%. If it's 150 miles, aim for 15%, etc. If something comes up like unexpected wind or temperature drop, just slowing down a bit makes a big difference. I've never arrived at an SC at less than 4% but I have a few times decided to slow down by 5mph (and so far every time it turned out to be unnecessary).
 
Cutting it so close between super chargers seems risky

Ok I want to arrive at the next charger with exactly 5%, what if a storm and strong wind comes up before I get there? Now I won’t be able make it.

I would like it to say I’ll arrive at the charger with 20-30% left so I’m prepared for unexpected things that will hit my range
I don't think this is an either/or question. It's a blend of both. I will not depart a Supercharger with only a 5% arrival estimate. I do try to start with the estimate showing about 15-20% to account for some unknown variability. But then as you drive, the car is seeing what your real energy usage is and updates that in real time. So when you've driven for another 30 or 40 minutes, the car has seen what the conditions and consumption are, and you've got a really good estimate. Then, if things are going well, I can start turning up the cruise control speed to try to "use it up" and push that arrival estimate down toward 10%.
 
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I wouldn't count on it. Let's revisit this in 5 years.

Ack... and I can't go back and fix my post. I added an extra 0 for the shipping. (facepalm) I meant $1K or $1.5K for shipping.
Actually, consider Priuses. People used to be worried that a Prius battery would cost over $10k to replace. Now they’re under $2k.

No reason to think that the same won’t happen to Tesla batteries. Economies of scale, old technology costing less, and so forth.
 
Actually, consider Priuses. People used to be worried that a Prius battery would cost over $10k to replace. Now they’re under $2k.

No reason to think that the same won’t happen to Tesla batteries. Economies of scale, old technology costing less, and so forth.
9k for a new battery and 6k for refurbished is the least I want in the long term, it’s still expensive but reasonable
 
Would you seriously suggest people with out of warranty Model 3's go with a random supposedly $4250 + $1000 or $1500 for shipping pack found on eBay?
yes, why not?..
I would for sure, thats 1/3rd the price of tesla
I'd just be careful with which ebay seller to buy from, get it from reputable ones (good feedback n warranty, plenty of reviews)
Worst case ur out few hundred dollars on return shipping..
 
yes, why not?..
I would for sure, thats 1/3rd the price of tesla
I'd just be careful with which ebay seller to buy from, get it from reputable ones (good feedback n warranty, plenty of reviews)
Worst case ur out few hundred dollars on return shipping..
Where do these eBay batteries even come from? Are owners taking them out of their cars to sell them?
 
mostly from salvage cars...
there's a lot of recycles that buy wrecked, broken, lemon cars n part them out
Its been a standard business practice with ICE n now with EVs..
Occasionally it happens to normal cars, aka theft...
 
Getting a battery from a salvage seems kinda dangerous
Why? Almost all used parts for cars come from salvaged cars. Many cars get declared a total loss because the expensive body work. It doesn't mean they had been a high speed crash. All it takes is another car to scrape your entire side.

I feel like this discussion is going into the typical way when it comes to Tesla batteries. Very very few fail. If they fail early on, they are covered under warranty. If they fail after the warranty it is mostly because they have a ton of miles on them. They are just worn out. Just like any other car would be worn out if it had +300k on it. It makes no economical sense to put money into such an old car. Just like it makes no sense to put a new engine and transmission and exhaust system into an old ICE car. You are spending a lot of money but the car is still old and not worth much and will likely have other issues come up. It's like that with every vehicles. There is a point where you let it go and get a new(er) one as the repairs will just not end. You are dumping more and more money into an old car.

Teslas are no different. Citing the cost of replacing a battery on a high milage worn out Tesla is just like that. It makes no sense. I'm on my third Tesla now. I had more than 300k on the first one and 240k on the second one. I could have gotten a replacement battery for both for a reasonable price. Even a larger one for a little more range. But I decided it makes no sense to dump more money into those old vehicles and got a new one.
 
Why? Almost all used parts for cars come from salvaged cars. Many cars get declared a total loss because the expensive body work. It doesn't mean they had been a high speed crash. All it takes is another car to scrape your entire side.

I feel like this discussion is going into the typical way when it comes to Tesla batteries. Very very few fail. If they fail early on, they are covered under warranty. If they fail after the warranty it is mostly because they have a ton of miles on them. They are just worn out. Just like any other car would be worn out if it had +300k on it. It makes no economical sense to put money into such an old car. Just like it makes no sense to put a new engine and transmission and exhaust system into an old ICE car. You are spending a lot of money but the car is still old and not worth much and will likely have other issues come up. It's like that with every vehicles. There is a point where you let it go and get a new(er) one as the repairs will just not end. You are dumping more and more money into an old car.

Teslas are no different. Citing the cost of replacing a battery on a high milage worn out Tesla is just like that. It makes no sense. I'm on my third Tesla now. I had more than 300k on the first one and 240k on the second one. I could have gotten a replacement battery for both for a reasonable price. Even a larger one for a little more range. But I decided it makes no sense to dump more money into those old vehicles and got a new one.
It could have some kind of damage that can’t be seen
 
... It makes no economical sense to put money into such an old car. Just like it makes no sense to put a new engine and transmission and exhaust system into an old ICE car. You are spending a lot of money but the car is still old and not worth much and will likely have other issues come up. It's like that with every vehicles. There is a point where you let it go and get a new(er) one as the repairs will just not end. You are dumping more and more money into an old car.
either get new or what i always do n suggest, match the cost of repair to the cost of the car...
if the ICE engine is $500 then sure i might swap it n keep driving it
if HV pack is $3-5k, sure might be worth swapping n keep driving but 14k?.. heck no...
 
It makes no economical sense to put money into such an old car. Just like it makes no sense to put a new engine and transmission and exhaust system into an old ICE car. You are spending a lot of money but the car is still old and not worth much
I’m having hard time deciding when the cut off should be for this, like if my warranty expires and my battery dies at 130k miles would it still worth it to buy a battery then

Or if the battery dies at 200k miles should that be the point when I’m like ok I’ll just get a new car
 
It could have some kind of damage that can’t be seen
from impact? i doubt it..
if its like bms u029 error that's been reset?.. could happen to any pack
buying used car can be the same, owner could have been in a wreck n never reported to ins n fixed it, u will never know...
on top of whatever was already mentioned, lots of salvage cars have no deployed airbags, meaning there were no significant impact at all

anyhow, we derailed the thread too much already 😅
/end.
 
from impact? i doubt it..
if its like bms u029 error that's been reset?.. could happen to any pack
buying used car can be the same, owner could have been in a wreck n never reported to ins n fixed it, u will never know...
on top of whatever was already mentioned, lots of salvage cars have no deployed airbags, meaning there were no significant impact at all

anyhow, we derailed the thread too much already 😅
/end.
Salvaged cars can’t super charge though so you would find out eventually one way or another
 
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Actually, consider Priuses. People used to be worried that a Prius battery would cost over $10k to replace. Now they’re under $2k.
I can't speak to your claim that "now they're under $2K", but I used to be a Prius fanboy and had one for 13 years, but I pulled away from being active on Priuschat and following Prius closely in mid-2013, once I got an EV.

That said, we used to maintain Failed traction (HV) battery, what to do? and Toyota USA Newsroom | Our Point of View: Prius Battery Change is No Big Deal written by Toyota in 2008 said
"The MSRP for a battery pack for a first-generation Prius is $2,299, while the MSRP for the battery pack for the second-generation cars, those from the 2004-2008 model-years, is $2,588. This reflects three price reductions for the first-generation battery since it was introduced and two price reductions for the second-generation battery. Naturally, labor charges, which are set by each dealer, as well as possible charges from ancillary parts that could be required, should be added to that figure. Finally, we assume responsibility for recycling all of our hybrid batteries."

I can't speak to where that "$10K" comes from. "Worry" is one thing but whether it's a valid baseline is another. My dad now has my former 06 Prius (bought new in Jan 2006). It's past the 18 year mark on its original HV battery. If the HV battery fails, we will be hunting around for repair/replacement options but keeping in mind the value of the car now is minimal due to age.
No reason to think that the same won’t happen to Tesla batteries. Economies of scale, old technology costing less, and so forth.
I've seen no evidence that replacement Tesla batteries from Tesla itself have gotten significant price reductions to make them more palatable. Just look at folks who need new Model S packs.
 
I've seen no evidence that replacement Tesla batteries from Tesla itself have gotten significant price reductions to make them more palatable. Just look at folks who need new Model S packs.
Model S batteries are a lot more expensive than the y and 3, that’s one reason they came out with those new batteries to reduce cost

Panasonic said they will be able to reduce the price further of the 2170 cells by the end of this year
 
How close is the % it says you will arrive at from your experience, does it say you will get there with 12% and you arrive with 5% or is more like arriving with 10% instead of 12%
While the percentage is one thing, the number that you should use is the range on the energy graph page. That has the most accurate representation of range.

While charging, I find out how far away the next Supercharger that I want to stop at it and then add some buffer miles and that's what I charge up to.
 
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While the percentage is one thing, the number that you should use is the range on the energy graph page. That has the most accurate representation of range.

While charging, I find out how far away the next Supercharger that I want to stop at it and then add some buffer miles and that's what I charge up to.
What’s a good mileage buffer to you