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How-to: Changing the IEC 62196/Type 2 Charging Cable of Tesla Wall Connector

Discussion in 'Model S: Battery & Charging' started by ekrwaul, Dec 31, 2018.

  1. ekrwaul

    ekrwaul New Member

    Dec 31, 2018
    First of all, please forgive me any spelling mistakes as English is a second language to me.

    I want to give you my impressions on the Tesla Wall Connector and the possibility to change it's charging cable. I translated this from German. Also, I wrote more about my motivations and experiences going into this project. I can also translate this into English if you are interested. (Here is the link to my German article)


    (DISCLAMER: I do not take any responsibility for this guide or any faults that may be a direct or indirect consequence of it. Also I am no electrician AND English is my second language, so please forgive me for any false terms)
    This is a translated guide and the cabling is adapted to European power!

    2. Remove the old charging cable
      Unscrew the top cover of the wallbox. Also, the upper black panel has to come off. To do so, carefully insert a plastic pick under the round clip and lift it up.

      You will find the relay in the top. Unscrew the cables coming from the right and undo the ferrules as to separate the small cables to connect them to the new cord.
      Also you have to unscrew the grounding, located in the bottom of the case.

      Next, you have to unscrew the small communication cables. They have the following purpose:
      Purple: +-12V Control Pilot
      Red: +3.3V for the UHF switch, opening the Tesla-Charging Door
      Black-White: NTC temperature sensor of the charging handle
      Orange: Proximity Pilot

      As a last step, the strain relief in the very bottom has to be loosened. Now you can pull the old charging cable out of the wallbox.

    3. Installing the new cord
      My third-party cord came with the following cables (Again: EU configuration, can be adapted to US)
      3 x phase, neutral, PE and CP
      The phases as well as neutral have to be connected to the corresponding smaller cables and ferruled together and screwed into the relay.
      Next, the PE has to be screwed into its original position at the bottom.

      Now we have to deal with the small communication cables. (going left to right)
      - the CP cable of the new cord is inserted into the leftmost screw terminal.
      - the next terminal on the right (3V3) is left with no cable attached
      - in case your new charging cable does not have a temperature sensor you have to replicate the signal. Because the original cord had a temperature-sensitive resistor, we can use a regular resistor with 10K Ω which resembles a temperature of 20°C/68°F. (Again, I am no electrician and can not be held accountable for this guide! Please use your temperature sensor if your cable has one). The wallbox will measure the resistance against the PE of the charging cable. Thus we will connect the 3. terminal via a 10K Ω resistor to the PE of the charging cable.
      - the last terminal on the right is the PP. One of its tasks is to tell the car how many amps the cable can deliver because of its length and resistance. This information is delivered by fixed resistance values between PP and PE (63A ≈ 100 Ω, 32A ≈ 220 Ω, 20A ≈ 680 Ω, 13A ≈ 1500 Ω/again, please double check). My new cable is able to deliver 32A, so I am connecting the 4th terminal via a 220 Ω resistor to the PE of the charging cable
    4. Moment of truth
      The diagnostic LEDs on the front cover of the wall connector are a good possibility to check for mistakes.
      You can check in the Wall Connector manual for the LED sequences. They can be replayed by holding the RESET button on the left side of the box.

      Either way, if you get the all green: Congratulations!

      I hope I could save you some time on your own project!
      Also: See the attached diagram of the circuit board of the Wall Connector as well as the one of my charging cable.


    Attached Files:

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  2. NovapaX

    NovapaX New Member

    Jan 31, 2019
    Dordrecht, NL
    Thank you very much for this How-To!
    I just managed to successfully replace the TWC cable for a 1-phase type 1 cable. (for a Mitsubishi Outlander in this case)

    The cable only had a Control Pilot wire. I first connected only that pilot wire and tried charging, got the red lighti indicating a error (probably because of the thermal sensor/NTC) After some searching I found this How-To.

    Used a 10kOhm resistor between Thermal sensor and PE (ground) just like you. (I measured a 14kOhm resistance on the original cable at about 17 degrees Celsius, so that 10 kOhm sounded about right)
    Used a 680ohm resistor between PP and PE (ground) because I had a 16A charging cable.

    To get charging working with the Outlander (and suposedly some other cars) setting dip-switch no.2 to the down position is required. (legacy-mode)

    Again: thank you!

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