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Using the first location as a main breaker vs load breaker is equivalent electrically.Not sure to make of this. Schneider Electric sent it to me saying this first space can be used for a 100 amp breaker.
Is that only when used for back feeding, or could it be used for a normal 100 amp branch?
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There is no real benefit to 100 amps as Tesla only charges at a max using a 60 amp breaker (48 amps),
True, but even with a 90 Amp breaker, 72A charge limit, you get 17kW which would let you full recharge two 100kWh vehicles in about 12 hours (ignoring taper).The advantage is if/when you have two chained HPWC. With a 100A circuit, you can charge two vehicles at once at 40A apiece.
True, but even with a 90 Amp breaker, 72A charge limit, you get 17kW which would let you full recharge two 100kWh vehicles in about 12 hours (ignoring taper).
Also assumes the house load is light enough to allow that rate.
Now, if you have two cybertrucks
I am preparing for CyberTruck, which may end up with a 300kwh battery. So it may take 3x as long for a full charge as current cars. Not that it would ever need a full charge since it is charged every night.
In other news, Schneider Electric swears you are not supposed to use a 100 amp branch breaker even for the first position, even though it is allowed to be 100 amp for back-feed use.
Here is what their customer rep said:
"Yes I have also confirmed this with one of our Senior Engineers. Those first two spots are designed, tested and UL listed to accept a 100A QO breaker only if that 100A breaker is used as a back fed main and that is the reason why you can see 2 wiring diagrams. The one above is if the load center is used as an MLO. The wiring diagram below it is used if the load center is used a back fed Main breaker load center."
I asked if there was one that would work, and they said HOM1224L125PC or HOM816L125PC
Is it against the NEC to drive a main-lug 125 bus-bar panel from another panel using a 100 amp breaker over wire that is rated for 100 amps?
The Schneider rep said it was fine because "HOM816L125PGC just have a 125A rated bus bars. It does not imply that it will pull more than 100A from your main panel. Also, it has a main lug interior so its load capacity will solely depend on the breaker from the main panel where it would be connected to" but who knows - NEC might say that if it says 125 on it, it is not allowed to be driven with wires that can't take 125 because some future person may want to change the breaker that is feeding it.
I asked if there was one that would work, and they said HOM1224L125PC or HOM816L125PC
Is it against the NEC to drive a main-lug 125 bus-bar panel from another panel using a 100 amp breaker over wire that is rated for 100 amps?
The Schneider rep said it was fine because "HOM816L125PGC just have a 125A rated bus bars. It does not imply that it will pull more than 100A from your main panel. Also, it has a main lug interior so its load capacity will solely depend on the breaker from the main panel where it would be connected to" but who knows - NEC might say that if it says 125 on it, it is not allowed to be driven with wires that can't take 125 because some future person may want to change the breaker that is feeding it.
Couple tips you may already know:This 125 amp panel is way better. Feels about 3x the weight and has a 125 amp bus bar. Still only about $45.
Somehow I managed to have my conduit come through the wall at exactly the right spot.
Waiting on some parts now to finish this. Had to return the splice kit as it was not rated for AL.
Not sure why the site makes my photos sideways.
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This 125 amp panel is way better. Feels about 3x the weight and has a 125 amp bus bar. Still only about $45.
Somehow I managed to have my conduit come through the wall at exactly the right spot.
Waiting on some parts now to finish this. Had to return the splice kit as it was not rated for AL.
Not sure why the site makes my photos sideways.
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View attachment 489806
So when I installed this, it was for a Cybertruck that is 2-3 years away. On Christmas, my wife made a certificate gift for a family Tesla, and wanted something for us now. We don't need a car now since we won't have an extra driver until the summer, but I decided to call Tesla for a test drive to see how much I liked a Model-3.
Today I bought a Model 3 Stealth Performance (which I had never heard of this variant) because it was in stock and the tax credit and Stealth savings would make it cheaper than waiting until the summer (to the best I can predict) - and it was a 2020 VIN so no downside that I could see.