ICE/Audio SQ Build Log (Mosconi, ScanSpeak, JL)

[R1Fast]

Hi folks,

In addition to a decent list of upgrades to the interior, exterior and suspension of my P3D, I'll be doing my own custom audio install. This thread will serve as my build log to share with you all, and if it helps even just one person answer questions on a similar project, it's worth the time on my side to document as others have already helped me a ton with their informative posts.

I ordered on 7/11 and take delivery tomorrow (9/25/18). P3D blue on white interior with all options except the 'performance' package (I'm doing my own version with aftermarket forged wheels, spoiler, calipers, pedals).

I'll be picking up and promptly dropping it off 2 blocks away with my wrap guy to get paint correction, full frontal and rear bumper PPF, ceramic coating and 35% Photosync all around (windshield 70%).

Then it's up onto the rack to install the UP DR moderate springs and eventually, Titan7 TS-5 forged monoblock wheels in bronze (19x9) I'll be picking up thanks to @Xenoilphobe and the group buy thread.

Other upgrades are minor but will include:

- Tsportline spoiler
- Red powdercoat calipers
- Tesla wheel cap kit (uncovered Aeros til the Titan7s arrive ... and for wet months)
- RPM aluminum pedals
- 3dXpider cabin mats
- Tesla (WeatherTech) trunk/frunk mats
- Driver centric OSD (similar to this)
- Upgraded / addressable LED lighting throughout (running on ArduinoBT via Android)
- Dynamat and CCF all 6 sides of trunk
- Full custom audio install and probably more

Any fabrication work for the audio/ICE that is needed I'll do myself. Design is still on the drawing board until I can do some sine wave testing in the cabin with my Dayton Audio mic, but it will likely be a 3-way front stage with 1 sub. Rough goals in order of priority are:

1- Sound quality (SQ)
2- Optimal driver-side sound stage (or as close as is possible in the 3)
3- Efficiency (battery drain / implications)
4- Stealth installation (OEM appearance)
5- Budget (re-using components from previous vehicle + OEM... possibly)

On budget, I have heard HK manufactures the Model 3 audio system but have yet to confirm and it seems there are some conflicting reports on this. At any rate, ithe amp is out but the drivers have potential. It all depends on the quality of manufacturing and testing the linear distortion the OEM drivers. If it isn't in the same ballpark as the true audiophile brands I'll pull them.

Here is my component list - most of which came from my previous vehicle (drivers are ScanSpeak except sub):

DSP: Mosconi 6to8 with Bluetooth

Drivers:
Tweeter: D2904 / 60000
Mid: 12M / 4631G00
Woofer: 18w / 4531G00
Sub: JL Audio 12W7-3

Amplifiers:
Mosconi AS100.4 (tweeter, mid)
Mosconi AS100.4 (woofer bridged)
JL HD1200/1 (sub)

Whether or not this system will work on an EV is still totally grey box to me. As it peaked at close to 250A on my current car (and required a 275A DC Power alternator) it may be a pipe dream. Time will tell.

Pre-install pictures. Sub is in a fiberglass enclosure I built for my STi hatchback - will build a similar enclosure for the trunk hidden compartment (assuming it has enough cu. ft.).

 

[R1Fast]

Reserved for updates

 

[R1Fast]

Reserved for updates 2

 

[Xenoilphobe]

This will help with the amperage issue; 12V 50 AH Lithium Ion Battery | Deep Cycle Lithium Ion Battery | Smart Battery

 

[R1Fast]

This will help with the amperage issue; 12V 50 AH Lithium Ion Battery | Deep Cycle Lithium Ion Battery | Smart Battery

.

Thanks Xenoilphobe. I was considering a deep cycle but wondering about charging. I guess periodically using a trickle charger? Unless there's some way to tap into the factory charging system. Any thoughts?

 

[flashflooder]

Very interested in this thread. I'm looking to make a few upgrades to the system myself, though several orders of magnitude less than what you're planning here.

I was thinking replacing the front door woofers, and a handful of the mid-range speakers and tweeters in the dash / a-pillars. I'll probably end up putting a 12" sub in the trunk hidden compartment, and adding an amp to help out with those.

As of right now, I have next to no information on any of the OEM drivers or the amp.

 

[Glamisduner]

I can't wait to see pictures, most useful would be door panel removal without breaking anything, and where your mounting the sub. I have a feeling I will want more than the OEM stereo as well. but I want as much cargo space as possible, and not sure if simpyl replacing the OEM sub would be enough, or if it would require upgrading to a 10" woofer, or if the a stock fronts are up to snuff like you describe. I had DLS Irridiums put into my last self install and loved the way they sounded. Just sold the truck with them still in it because the OEM speakers had deteriorated so I couldn't pull them to re-install in something else.

If I get a sub I wouldn't need anything as crazy as your W7 though. I have a couple TC1000's laying around that would work, or maybe something like an IDQ? Always wondered what an arc audio 10" would sound like.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

.

Thanks Xenoilphobe. I was considering a deep cycle but wondering about charging. I guess periodically using a trickle charger? Unless there's some way to tap into the factory charging system. Any thoughts?

Just swap out the stock lead acid battery and have Tesla change the firmware to support the new battery.

12 Volt Battery Replacement

this install has 3 LiFPo batteries in it. Is this the best sounding Tesla?

 

[MO-T3SLA]

I'm also going to be following this post closely. I'm surprised at the lack of audio system related threads in here, and I'd like to do as much as possible within reason to get the audio system in tip top shape once I have mine (including road noise reduction).

 

[ppower]

Looking forward to following your findings on this. I have Stereo Integrity separates, sub (12" SQ sub that only needs 0.5ft), and Alpine PDX5 just laying around. It would be great to see what you do, and maybe my gear could go in my P3.

 

[flashflooder]

A great first step would be to simply find out how the stock system works (i.e. if the amp near the sub in the trunk drives the entire system, what size/impedance all speakers are, and how the crossovers are done [via amp or head unit or passive crossovers] and at what frequencies).

So many questions.

 

[TAREK7]

I'm planning to change my audio system too. I will try to to in phases and stop when I;m happy with the result. Something like iterations and SCRUM. So let's do it in an agile way

With my home setup I tried different amps and speakers before and every time the effect the speakers was much more notable than the effect of the amp.

First I will only swap the dashboard mids and the tweeters. At this moment I think it will be the ScanPeak 10f mids and the 3004/6020 tweeters. This will be below 500 USD for the gear.

Then I will go for a 10" sub, plus amp for the subwoofer (because the amp here matters the most).

I think SEAS have of the best 6.5 speakers. If I'm still not happy with the setup, I will try the woofers from Seas. The Lotus reference RW 165/1 L0017-04S is 230 EUR per speaker.

And as last (but I hope this is not needed), I will add a DSP (Helix DSP PRO II looks very promising) and AMPs. Especially the DSP can be very important to set the best possible crossovers and to time align everything.

PS: In my case it is a Model S.

 

[R1Fast]

Just swap out the stock lead acid battery and have Tesla change the firmware to support the new battery.

12 Volt Battery Replacement

this install has 3 LiFPo batteries in it. Is this the best sounding Tesla?

Strange, it was my understanding that only older Model S had lead acid. Newer models are using AGM (or so I thought) which has the same charging profile as LiFP04.

Anyway, thanks for the link to the video. That is very similar to what I'm planning. Good god that alcantara looks amazing. I'm conversing with Matt about doing something similar in my 3 when it arrives (seeing what guidance he can provide).

Only problem is, my delivery has been rescheduled twice more since posting the OP. Now scheduled for 10/17 (6th delivery appointment) and Tesla just keeps kicking the can down the road.

Oh well, more time to plan the build!