SoundDaTrumpet
Member
I realize much is intended load. The problem is that fire safety extends beyond tenant/homeowner cognizant/responsible for the receptacle (i.e. you move away or plain forgot about it). EV charging takes these one rarely plugged/unplugged appliances (e.g. stove / dryers) and presents them as convenience sockets for the EV revolution. I would conclude please use a #6 wire to cover all bases. A 30A circuit breaker (e.g. MP230) can accept #6 wire. The NEMA 14-30 accepts wire as large as a #4.Yeah, if you can get a 14-50 adapter for the Gen 1 UMC that signals only 32 amps to the car (was this for the Canadian thing? or does this not actually exist) then you could install a 14-50 receptacle on either a 40 or a 50 amp circuit and be code compliant. The load calc is done based on the intended load, so if it is 32a continuous then you calculate it as 40a of load regardless of the actual circuit being 40a or 50a. So I would generally always do it as 50a...
Of course this does set up a situation where a future owner could go plug a different EVSE in at 40a continuous and blow the load calculations... But from what I understand this is how the code works. Maybe we need a change to the code that forces you to calculate receptacles like this at their max available supply rather than based on what you intend to connect to them.
I did install using a GFCI. Those are pricey. Money is better spent bridging the money gap to do a hardwired Wall Connector. One less receptacle that you have to wrestle with get thick wire into a two gang box. The Wall Connect can be officially turned down lower amps which is the KEY feature.
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