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Installing NEMA 14-50 just like this guy, but not sure about load capacity

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I'm installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet exactly like the guy in this video. It looks pretty kosher and code friendly and I plan to follow it step-by-step.

Hubbell NEMA 14-50 Install

My outlet will be directly under the breaker box just like the video. The only thing I'm not sure about is load capacity and if it's something I need to worry about. Our townhome is about 7 years old and there appears to be plenty of space left on our 200A panel. We don't have anything on it outside of your typical household appliances. From what I understand, the main repercussion of overloading would be tripping it. I plan to charge at night, starting at 9-10pm and we rarely have anything going at that time except maybe the dishwasher.

This panel is in the garage. You might be able to see - it's an Eaton panel but the actual breakers are a mixture of Eaton and Cutler-Hammer. I didn't do that. I will use an Eaton 50A two pole breaker.

IMG_2472.jpg
 
I'm installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet exactly like the guy in this video. It looks pretty kosher and code friendly and I plan to follow it step-by-step.

Hubbell NEMA 14-50 Install

My outlet will be directly under the breaker box just like the video. The only thing I'm not sure about is load capacity and if it's something I need to worry about. Our townhome is about 7 years old and there appears to be plenty of space left on our 200A panel. We don't have anything on it outside of your typical household appliances. From what I understand, the main repercussion of overloading would be tripping it. I plan to charge at night, starting at 9-10pm and we rarely have anything going at that time except maybe the dishwasher.

This panel is in the garage. You might be able to see - it's an Eaton panel but the actual breakers are a mixture of Eaton and Cutler-Hammer. I didn't do that. I will use an Eaton 50A two pole breaker.

View attachment 733903
"The only thing I'm not sure about is load capacity and if it's something I need to worry about." It's not, it's like adding a second oven to your house.
 
In the video he did not use a GFIC breaker, this is required by code.

Also, let me put in a “plug” for installing of a Wall Connector instead. The 14-50 will run you about $50 for the plug, $100 for the GFIC breaker, $45 for the Tesla 14-50 adapter, and about $35 for the MC and cable management system - this totals $230. The Wall Connector is $500 plus $10 for a 60-amp (non-GFIC) breaker, so it is just $280 more. The wire is about the same price since for the 14-50 you need a 50A 3-conductor wire while the Wall Connector needs a 60A 2-conductor wire.

And for that extra money you will charge at 48A instead of 32A, and the MC can stay in the car. And if you find pulling 48A is too much, the Wall Connector can be set to a lower upper limit.

Just something to consider.
 
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In the video he did not use a GFIC breaker, this is required by code.

Also, let me put in a “plug” for installing of a Wall Connector instead. The 14-50 will run you about $50 for the plug, $100 for the GFIC breaker, $45 for the Tesla 14-50 adapter, and about $35 for the MC and cable management system - this totals $230. The Wall Connector is $500 plus $10 for a 60-amp (non-GFIC) breaker, so it is just $280 more. The wire is about the same price since for the 14-50 you need a 50A 3-conductor wire while the Wall Connector needs a 60A 2-conductor wire.

And for that extra money you will charge at 48A instead of 32A, and the MC can stay in the car. And if you find pulling 48A is too much, the Wall Connector can be set to a lower upper limit.

Just something to consider.
Both charges it 0-100 by the next morning. 14-50 also charges an RV
 
Remember this: the charging cable that comes with the car, when joined to a NEMA 14-50 adapter, only charges at 32A (so you only need a 40A breaker to make it happy and max it out). If you buy the (always out of stock) Corded Mobile Connector, that can charge at 40A (so you'd need a 50A breaker to make it happy and max it out).
 
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Remember this: the charging cable that comes with the car, when joined to a NEMA 14-50 adapter, only charges at 32A (so you only need a 40A breaker to make it happy and max it out). If you buy the (always out of stock) Corded Mobile Connector, that can charge at 40A (so you'd need a 50A breaker to make it happy and max it out).

The Corded Mobile connector is $400, given the cost of a 14-50 plug and GFCI breaker, it is same cost as the Wall Connecter, so why bother?
 
14-50 is universal and can be used for many other things like other EV chargers, welders, plasma cutters, etc. That would be my choice. If you really want a Tesla connector you can get the 14-50 wall setup
This. A 14-50 is the most universal install for EV charging. Tesla is not the be-all and end-all (and/or you may move someday). When I sold my Roadster I picked up a Volvo XC40. The XC40 came w/ a J1772 with a 14-50 plug. I did not have to do a single thing to my garage to change EVs. Unless you can't recharge at 32A in the time you have, why spend more money?
 
This. A 14-50 is the most universal install for EV charging. Tesla is not the be-all and end-all (and/or you may move someday). When I sold my Roadster I picked up a Volvo XC40. The XC40 came w/ a J1772 with a 14-50 plug. I did not have to do a single thing to my garage to change EVs. Unless you can't recharge at 32A in the time you have, why spend more money?

When I first got my EV I was looking for the "fastest" charge at home. After charging on everything everything from 110 to a SC, I realized that L2 charging is less about speed and more about having a car ready to go the next morning.
 
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