TheCharlesChen
https://etsy.me/3Fao24t
What we did is cut the T-badge across the screw holes and then drilled new screw holes or use self tapping screws. It looks much better that way.
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This is easily adjusted by cutting more of the black plastic on the T's
You have to cut the front end ducting to fit the radar in the middle of it. Look at my pics.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
They've got this really big machine out in back of the service center. I've seen it. The machine is like a big chicken rotisserie on a barbque. They take these really soft moving pads and put them on the front and back of the car. They spin the car around and use shrink wrap to secure the pads. Once they get it wrapped, they pull the two pieces of the big machine apart and slide it over to the front and back of the car. They use the really big flat bungee cords to hold the front and back machine piece on the car. Just before they turn it on, they use the car's GPS to align it so its front points true north The turn it on. This shakes the car up and down and back and forth while its turning it like a pig on a spit. Not only does it calibrate the AP1 radar, it cleans the golf clubs in the trunk and knocks the loose screws and nuts stuck inside the doors. The last action done before they shut it down is turn the car upside down to let the stuff in the doors fall out, and the dirt loose from the clubs. The tricky part of this is, the true north only works on the first and last week of each month.
SC just plug in laptop and calibrate. They will tell you if Radar needs to be moved forward.
I had to move mine forward...and after calibration...it has been working fine....a little bit over $100 for mobile service
T
Here is the radar that I did balance .
thank you for yr info , I just did adjust the radar , basically I did balance the radar mount( adjusted the crews) then took the car for little drive, 5 mins or so, parked the car and reboot, voila the radar works , showing the object on front. And I just took the car for 30 mins drive , Works good, I did the reboot so I can take the picture so I can schedule for recalibration, but accidently its work fine now.
Here is the radar that I did balance .
Attachments
Hi Ben, I'm considering the Unplugged refresh fascia, but I like keeping my frunk secure and don't want anyone to be able access through the manual release. I'd prefer to have access to the battery terminals to jump the vehicle and unlock the vehicle. Is there an alternative solution to access the terminals with the UP refresh bumper? Thanks.
Wnix05
Member
If you need a quick rundown of a bumper refresh retrofit, I made this video as a resource:
TheCharlesChen
https://etsy.me/3Fao24t
I ran into the same issue. It still fits but it's a very tight fit. There may be a few people who have an inch too short. If someone could come up with a cable extender with the same connectors... I'd be willing to pay money for it. Maybe $50 a set of extenders or something like that. Totally worth it if someone wants to fab them up and sell them back to the community.
Wnix05
Member
The parking sensor issue was fairly easy. We cut the sensors and added about 4" soldering and heat-shrinking to make them water tight. Everything is working perfectly. We didn't run into any resistance issues. Hood fitment pretty much worked itself out as we attached the lower valence.
I had to extend 2 driver sides sensor...cut and solder..fairly easy
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