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Is it okay to charge to 100% if I am immediately going to use it right away?

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Let me literally quote YOU on the subject of leaving the car at 0%: "Because of this, and that you get stranded it is not recommended (just as the Tesla manual states) to leave the car at very low SOC like 1 or 0% for extended time"

Are you now going to argue with yourself about it?
We need to understand that there is a difference between how batteries actually work and how to use the car with good practice.

What I say is that there is a lot of battery myths.
Lithium batteries do not get harmed by low SOC down to 0%.

As the car has about 4.5% SOC margin below 0% on the screen down to 0% is safe.
The car does not dislike to sit at 1 or 0%.

If you run your car down below 0% so the car shuts down, the lihtium battery will not get hurt. It will shut down and disconnect to protect itself. If not charged soon, the 12V lead acid battery will get discharged, and these lead batteries do not like to be discharged so it will take damage if the car is not charged.
The HV lithium battery will not get damaged from this, but if you leave it long enough it will/might get damaged. In most cases this will be very long as it is disconnected with very low self discharge.
Thats is the how the car/battery work part.

Common sense or good practice says that we shold not leave the car for long at 1 or 0% as we might be stranded. In the first place it is not connected to ”damage” but to the problem of getting stranded with a car that doesnt start or drive anywhere.

My statement was simply that the cars don't like to sit long term at either 100% or 0%. This is simply TRUE. I made no claim whatsoever about WHY.
It is not true. The car does not dislike sitting at 0%. It is very fine with that.
In the end, sometime, after the battery is discharged further, we can have a problem with the 12v batt.
You want to have a pissing contest about a non-existent claim that 0% causes degradation of the cells which no one on this thread ever made, including me.

No I do not want that at all.
We can agree to disagree, thats fine for me.
 
We need to understand that there is a difference between how batteries actually work and how to use the car with good practice.

What I say is that there is a lot of battery myths.
Lithium batteries do not get harmed by low SOC down to 0%.

As the car has about 4.5% SOC margin below 0% on the screen down to 0% is safe.
The car does not dislike to sit at 1 or 0%.

If you run your car down below 0% so the car shuts down, the lihtium battery will not get hurt. It will shut down and disconnect to protect itself. If not charged soon, the 12V lead acid battery will get discharged, and these lead batteries do not like to be discharged so it will take damage if the car is not charged.
The HV lithium battery will not get damaged from this, but if you leave it long enough it will/might get damaged. In most cases this will be very long as it is disconnected with very low self discharge.
Thats is the how the car/battery work part.

Common sense or good practice says that we shold not leave the car for long at 1 or 0% as we might be stranded. In the first place it is not connected to ”damage” but to the problem of getting stranded with a car that doesnt start or drive anywhere.


It is not true. The car does not dislike sitting at 0%. It is very fine with that.
In the end, sometime, after the battery is discharged further, we can have a problem with the 12v batt.


No I do not want that at all.
We can agree to disagree, thats fine for me.

You keep insisting that the car is "very fine' with sitting long term at 0%, and yet you refuse to do it with your own car, and it literally says in the manual to not do so.

You then dance around frantically on the head of a pin explaining that the reasons WHY doing it is a bad idea justify your claim that it's totally fine to do despite this being obviously not true.

I understand your passion for documenting that leaving the main HV battery at 0% does not tend to induce battery cell degradation. There's just 2 problems:

1. NO ONE in this thread claimed battery degredation at 0%

2. EVERYONE agrees that parking the car for a long time at 0% is a bad idea including yourself and Tesla.

Can we move on now?
 
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Looking at the graph and doing some rough eyeballing. Looks like at least the top 4 lines are all the same as far as battery degradation when compare total kwh of charging rather than number of times it is charged. For example, the best curve is the 76-65, or in other 10%. Compare that to the 85-25% curve, or in other words 60% per cycle, 6 times the number of kwh run through the battery. Look at the 1000 cycles for the 85-25 and compare to the 6000 cycles for the 75-65 . . . they are both about 93% battery retention (7% degradation).

Question, how does regen braking play into this? Effectively, every time you brake, you are doing a little mini charge cycle. Anyway, extrapolating on this graph, seems like that won't matter since doing 10% cycles performs the same as 60% cycles when measuring total kwh of charging. But 10% cycle is still quite large compared to a single regen braking which is probably only .1% or something.

I have also been in the habit of varying my charge rate while charging (I have an automatic program managing this) that helps me to peak shave. Not sure if that does anything bad to the battery, I feel like no or I wouldn't do it, but that is just my gut feeling. I vary between 0kw and 5kw charge rate in 1kw increments depending on my other usage.
 
Looking at the graph and doing some rough eyeballing. Looks like at least the top 4 lines are all the same as far as battery degradation when compare total kwh of charging rather than number of times it is charged. For example, the best curve is the 76-65, or in other 10%. Compare that to the 85-25% curve, or in other words 60% per cycle, 6 times the number of kwh run through the battery. Look at the 1000 cycles for the 85-25 and compare to the 6000 cycles for the 75-65 . . . they are both about 93% battery retention (7% degradation).
Are you refering to the graph in post #5?
That graph do not test all SOC regions.
Because of that, you can get fooled to draw the wrong conclusions.

A ”correct” graph or research report should present the cycles in Full Cycle Equivalents(FCE). Then we can see direct in the graph which cycle alternative that gives less degradation per mile driven if we transfer it to an EV.

448FECF7-ACB7-4531-ABE9-E8012534ACE9.png


What we can see is:
Small cycles are better than large cycles.
We can also see that the lower a cycle is placed, the better.
There is only one cycle set with 10% DOD, 75-65% we can not see and compare for example 35-25 or 20-10%.

Batteryuniversity.com use this graph, which is quite missleading.
Recalculated to FCE we will get a complete other view of which cycle alternative that is best of the tested soc ranges (which might blind you from the SOC range that is actually best.

Still, the setup did not test low SOC cycle so it is very incomplete if we should use it to find the best SOC range there is.

That picture is as about as good as how people seem to interpretate Elon Musks soc range answer on Twitter. People took this as the best SOC Charging target is 80% for battery longivety.

6AAD1835-05BC-4FBC-A0A2-A7F04D556862.jpeg



Question, how does regen braking play into this? Effectively, every time you brake, you are doing a little mini charge cycle.
Regen makes the depth of discharge lower, which reduces the wear. Smaller cycles cause less degradation.
There might be one thing with high power/high current regen but we saw Tesla increase the limitstions for regen in an update this summer. It was probably done to reduce degradation.

Anyway, extrapolating on this graph, seems like that won't matter since doing 10% cycles performs the same as 60% cycles when measuring total kwh of charging.
The test has a faulty setup, or at least you can not se ”through” these issues.

Hig SOC cycles wear much more. This means that a 80-70% cycle wear about as much as 80-30%, counted per FCE.

Large cycles wear much, but the often used term ”deep cycle” is missleading. The bad part of a large cycle is not at low SOC, it is the high SOC part of that cycle that is bad.

So in the about same SOC range, a smaller cycle wear less than a larger one.
Regen reduces the need for chsrging with about 10-15%, so the DOD is 10-15% smaller. This reduce the degradation.


But 10% cycle is still quite large compared to a single regen braking which is probably only .1% or something.
Yes, its very small cycles, so the wear is low.
I have also been in the habit of varying my charge rate while charging (I have an automatic program managing this) that helps me to peak shave. Not sure if that does anything bad to the battery, I feel like no or I wouldn't do it, but that is just my gut feeling. I vary between 0kw and 5kw charge rate in 1kw increments depending on my other usage.
I dont understand the peak shave term, but any charging below *about* 0.25C or So (about 20kW on a long range) is considered slow charging and do not damage the battery. As AC chsrging is max 11 kW its well below the linit where the chsrging power can cause extra degradation.
At low battery temps this can happen anyway, but Tesla limits the charging speed to cope with the maximum ”safe” charging speed for the actual battery temp.
 
A ”correct” graph or research report should present the cycles in Full Cycle Equivalents(FCE). Then we can see direct in the graph which cycle alternative that gives less degradation per mile driven if we transfer it to an EV.
Exactly, that graph is a classic case of VERY badly presented data. At first glance, the orange line appears to be the best, since it has very little degradation after (say) 5000 cycles. HOWEVER, the orange line is only doing a 75% to 65% cycle, so the orange line represents far FEWER miles driven versus (say) the red line per cycle. The red line represents 100% to 40%, which is SIX times the energy, and hence mileage (assuming a linear relationship) per cycle.

If you normalize the graph for degradation per mile driven, then both orange and red cycles are pretty similar.
 
Exactly, that graph is a classic case of VERY badly presented data. At first glance, the orange line appears to be the best, since it has very little degradation after (say) 5000 cycles. HOWEVER, the orange line is only doing a 75% to 65% cycle, so the orange line represents far FEWER miles driven versus (say) the red line per cycle. The red line represents 100% to 40%, which is SIX times the energy, and hence mileage (assuming a linear relationship) per cycle.

If you normalize the graph for degradation per mile driven, then both orange and red cycles are pretty similar.
My takeaway from the graph is: I’m gonna have at least 90% battery capacity left after 200k miles regardless, so I’m good.
 
My takeaway from the graph is: I’m gonna have at least 90% battery capacity left after 200k miles regardless, so I’m good.
Nope.

The graph shows cyclic aging only.
If you constantly cycle the battery ( charge discharge) with like 25-100 cycles per day, you could get the same result.

But your battery is exposed to calendar aging as well. Calendar aging is worse initially and eat a smaller part of the cspacity each year.
But for the first five or then years calendar aging is the dominant part of the degradation.
It will probably defrade your battery 5% the first year ( depending on the temperature/climate and the average SOC your car have.)

After five years, calendar aging might have degraded your battery 10-15% but the cyclic aging propably only degraded the battery 2-5%.
 
Nope.

The graph shows cyclic aging only.
If you constantly cycle the battery ( charge discharge) with like 25-100 cycles per day, you could get the same result.

But your battery is exposed to calendar aging as well. Calendar aging is worse initially and eat a smaller part of the cspacity each year.
But for the first five or then years calendar aging is the dominant part of the degradation.
It will probably defrade your battery 5% the first year ( depending on the temperature/climate and the average SOC your car have.)

After five years, calendar aging might have degraded your battery 10-15% but the cyclic aging propably only degraded the battery 2-5%.
This is a good point. Calendar aging is the reason I try to keep my SoC at below 60% except for before a trip - I think you helped me get to this figure actually.
 
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@AAKEE I compared 6000 cycles at 10% added charge to 1000 cycles of 60% charge and both ended up at about 93% on the graph. So that is an apples to apples comparison that tells me there is no reason to not run the battery up and down a bit.

But I know of no way to know what micro charging events associated with regen braking do to a battery. The massive volume of these events means that even if there is a small impact positive or negative to battery with each event, it could be meaningful. There could be a situation where it makes no difference on a new battery but does on an old one, or some other condition in the battery like maybe temperature. I have never seen any comparison of using an electric vehicle with regen braking on vs regen braking off as far as battery health. For example, if you took two of the same vehicle that ran the same route every day with one having regen on and the other with regen off and swapped drivers back and forth and then tracked battery health.
 
Exactly, that graph is a classic case of VERY badly presented data. At first glance, the orange line appears to be the best, since it has very little degradation after (say) 5000 cycles. HOWEVER, the orange line is only doing a 75% to 65% cycle, so the orange line represents far FEWER miles driven versus (say) the red line per cycle. The red line represents 100% to 40%, which is SIX times the energy, and hence mileage (assuming a linear relationship) per cycle.

If you normalize the graph for degradation per mile driven, then both orange and red cycles are pretty similar.

Yeah, most of the lines are similar when normalized to degredation-per-mile. The one obvious learning is that hotter temps have a significant impact.
 
@AAKEE I compared 6000 cycles at 10% added charge to 1000 cycles of 60% charge and both ended up at about 93% on the graph. So that is an apples to apples comparison that tells me there is no reason to not run the battery up and down a bit.
I would like to say one or a couple of things:

- A research report that do not use FCE but ”stress cycles” in the report should start ringing warning bells.
- Almost All other research reports give other results.
- Do not fall for the idea to build your knowledge on one single report. There is boobie traps hidden in a lot of research.
The reason is sometimes that the test setup is faulty so it doesnt show all aspects, like in this one the is no low SOC examples.
In some cases the trst was not supposed to show all aspects, that must be read in the ingress of the report. In some cases the researchers “assume” completely wrong things as a base for the conclusions they will draw. If the assumption is completely wrong, the conclysions built on it will most probably be wrong.

I did read the complete report that had that picture/graph. I might still have it, but that report is not one I would recommend.
The test setup is faulty for the things we want to know, and the result differs from the most other reports.
I classed this report faulty and do not rember very much of the content.

That graph/picture would fit better into the very mass of other good reports if it was FCE on the X-axis.
If it is important, I can dig the report up and saw it into small pieces so we can throw it in the trash together. But I would rather see people focus on more then one report and in this case, not the bad ones.

I have read perhaps 150 reports by now.
In many cases you need to know quite a little to find the hickups and faulty parts of a report you read.
The most of the reports is good.
Some have faulty conclusions but the result of the tests is in line with the good ones.

There is a lot of good reports, but heres twe good ones:

Good report, NCA in tests

Good report, lot of differebt SOC -regions
 
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@AAKEE I compared 6000 cycles at 10% added charge to 1000 cycles of 60% charge and both ended up at about 93% on the graph. So that is an apples to apples comparison that tells me there is no reason to not run the battery up and down a bit.

But I know of no way to know what micro charging events associated with regen braking do to a battery. The massive volume of these events means that even if there is a small impact positive or negative to battery with each event, it could be meaningful. There could be a situation where it makes no difference on a new battery but does on an old one, or some other condition in the battery like maybe temperature. I have never seen any comparison of using an electric vehicle with regen braking on vs regen braking off as far as battery health. For example, if you took two of the same vehicle that ran the same route every day with one having regen on and the other with regen off and swapped drivers back and forth and then tracked battery health.

This in the report: https://www.researchgate.net/profil...Life-Assessment.pdf?origin=publication_detail

Purpose, below:
A cycle-counting method is incorporated to identify stress cycles from irregular operations, allowing the degradation model to be applied to any battery energy storage (BES) applications. The usefulness of this model is demonstrated through an assessment of the degradation that a BES would incur by providing frequency control in the PJM regulation market.

They used LMO chemistry. While all Lithium batteries have some similarities, there also are differences. In some cases LMO are a outlier.

You might wanna look for research reports including NCA-chemistry, like Tesla Panasonci NCA. Prefered would be to read about Panasonic NCA that either is exactly the same as in some Teslas or very close.

Also, the C-rate (that means high high the load are on the cells) has a big impact on how the cells age. In some cases the cells like it better warmer when exposed to high loads than they do with lower loads. High loads also changes the best SOC range.

1C in a load that completely empty the battery in one hour. In a Tesla that will be 100-0% in 57 minutes. In most cases, and specially over one year or a life of an EV car battery, the load is lower.
Average driving is somewhere around 30-60mph, I guess. The power needed for this os aboiut 10-20kW. This will mean that the C-load is for example 20kW/80kWh = 0.25C at 60mph.
You would like to look at discharge cycles that is either around 0.2-0.3C, not more than 0.5C or cycles that emulate EV car normal driving.

This brings us to the actual report. 1C is about 80kW and 5C is about 400kW which is the most you will get from a Model 3Performance, but just momentarily as it will not give this at lower speed than 45mph and not above 70mph. The graph below is an example from the research report of the C-load they used. They are not very precise so they only give example rather than show just exactly what they actually did do. (Not good to be un-precise in a report. We have to guess....and that is not good).
The C-rate on the upper picture is 1 to 2C discharge, and then 1-2C charge and after this about 4C charge and 7C discharge. Dis is not even close to our cars, and a 250kW Supercharging session is about 3-3.3C

The lower picture shows a discharge från 80 to 50% in 1000seconds. Thats 1.08C in average. They also charge it to 80% with 1C. I guess you will not see 80kW at 80%.
IMG_0996.jpg


This report does not at all reflect a Tesla with a NCA battery, It does not have the right type of battery, it does not have even close right C-load for charge or discharge.

The report mentions some "rainflow cylce counting algoritm" I didnt bother to learn about that, but realized that the cycle count could be other than clean cycles. As it looks, it could even be FCE.

There are quite a few more things about this report, but I guess I already made my point clear. So we could leave that, and look at research reports that are more customized to what we need to learn about.
 
@AAKEE I compared 6000 cycles at 10% added charge to 1000 cycles of 60% charge and both ended up at about 93% on the graph. So that is an apples to apples comparison that tells me there is no reason to not run the battery up and down a bit.

Here's two research reports with the aim for EV and a mix of NMC/LMO batteries. These do not at all reflect the other research report.
Very worth reading and give a lot of insight on the basics!
https://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/249356/249356.pdf
https://research.chalmers.se/publication/512004/file/512004_Fulltext.pdf

But we should look at NCA specially(for Europe and maybe some other countries, NMC is delivered on M3 and MY right now.

Short report about NCA calendar aging: ShieldSquare Captcha

This one is really good: https://mediatum.ub.tum.de/doc/1355829/document.pdf
The purpose:
As there are different basic operating scenarios for the traction battery of an EV, such as driving periods, charging periods, and nonoperating periods, these operating conditions have to be examined separately for a thorough understanding of the ongoing aging mechanisms. For each operating condition, various influencing factors, such as SoC, temperature, and amperage, affect Introduction 3 the degradation behavior. This leads to complex interdependencies and a substantial variety of load conditions that need to be examined and compared.

Panasonic NCA, one chapter for non-operating periods, one chapter for how charging protocolls ages the battery and one for aging during driving.
In the aging studies, more than 250 cells were examined and tested with different load profiles under different operating conditions.
One might skip to page 50 to see chapter 4 non-operating periods. Page 50-52 is recommended. Page 69 is also a nice page to see their calculation on long term calendar aging.

Page 83 show us about charging protocols, and the big difference from the other resport with the bad setup/bad presentation and way to high load.
0.5A of 2.8 nominal capacity is 0.18C, quite probably for some of the driving. It give us 14kW so perhaps 50-60mph driving speed.
1A is 0.36C or 28kW, high speed at highway. By reducing the charing from 100% to 80%(4.0V) we gain more than 50% cycle life.

Page 88-89 shows a clearer view of the pages before of the soc range. The lower the charging target the better.

Page 118+121 shows the result from different SOC ranges.

Chapter 7 page 141 is showing the conclusions about how to reduce calendar aging, cyclic aging etc. Read this!

If you ever start thinking about how they did these tests, go to the Appendix - then you know exactly.
 
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Oh, good Lord, I've aged a day while reading this thread. Don't sweat the small stuff -- the impact of occasionally charging to 100% will be barely visible in your car's lifetime. About once a month I charge my battery to 100% the night before I leave on my 200 mile road trip the next day.
Well, that is one of the conclusions we should draw (I have already, > two years ago) .

The "100% is dangerous" advice is a myth.
The "Do not leave the car at 100%" is also a myth. At high ambient temperatures, it causes increased wear. But not with very much, compared to 80 or 90%.

Teslas advice about 90% daily and 90-100% for longer trips comes from that this reduces the cyclic wear by quite much.

I have some 25-30 100% charges since the car was new 2 years ago. I have, ehh...did a exact calc but about 45 Supercharging sessions. Still, my car shows the best range of the M3P 2021's at teslafi with the same mileage as mine.

Miles will degrade the battery way less than calendar aging for the first 5 or ten years.
 
So I know that Tesla recommends charging only to 90%, but is that for those of you that have home chargers and it will sit at over 90 for a very long time?

I only charge at public chargers and I have to drive away from them just to go home so in my case would it be okay to charge to $100 since I am going to use that battery right away?
I'm going to be moving to a condo with no charging capability right now, so was investigating charge limits. In the owner's manual, Tesla says that if you have a RWD, which I do, to charge to 100% - always! Previously, the number was 90%, or 80%, depending on when I looked it up. I'm so confused....
 
I'm going to be moving to a condo with no charging capability right now, so was investigating charge limits. In the owner's manual, Tesla says that if you have a RWD, which I do, to charge to 100% - always! Previously, the number was 90%, or 80%, depending on when I looked it up. I'm so confused....
Do you have a 2023 RWD Model 3? If so then you should charge the lithium iron phosphate chemistry (LFP) battery in the Tesla SR+ (RWD) Model 3 to 100% at least once per week (but not all of the time.) The reason is that with LFP batteries the voltage of the cells in the battery are highly linear from high to low state of charge. The Tesla battery management system does not have a good way of gauging the state of charge of the LFP battery except by regularly charging to 100%. An LFP battery should not be charged to 100% all of the time. Tesla recommends at least once per week.
 
so was investigating charge limits.
The lower the charge limit the better. Use 55% or so if it works for you. If not, it at all inconvenient, use whatever you need.

You can also use a higher value if you don’t let it sit at that value for extended periods. It’s not the value that matters, it’s the time spent at the levels above about 55-60%.

And of course charge to 100% weekly as directed.

Charge every day, or even more often if time-of-use electricity rates are not punitive. Always be charging (to 55% or lower).

In the end none of it matters that much. It’s likely the difference between having 10% loss in 3-4 years, vs. 5%, very roughly. This is in some cases important, but for many owners doesn’t matter (unless reselling your own vehicle - then it might net you a few dollars).

It’s not going to affect whether your battery fails - those events seem to be uncorrelated with charging habits, and there is likely nothing you can do to prevent them.