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Is there an update on out of warranty battery replacement cost

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Attempting to convince people to purchase Tesla, I been getting feedback from them that it is too costly to change a bad battery. I would like to give them assurances that it would not cost that much; i.e. over 10K+. What do you recommend that I say to would be buyers if battery replacement was not so expensive?
 
Finally! After 4 months (of driving a loaner, so no complaints here) the battery replacement is complete. Didn’t help the first battery installed failed during installation so they had to order another. Interestingly, the loaner was a 2015 S with only 60k miles, yet it already had abysmal supercharging rates (something that didn’t happen to my old battery until ~100k.

It didn't happen until you got the software the reduced supercharging speed for all 400 volt 85s. You hitting 100K was just a coincidence. All 400v 85s have the reduced charge rate even if they only have 10 miles and have never been driven.
 
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I finally got my car back after 5 weeks in service. Replacement pack charges to 214 at 90%, which estimates out to about 238 full. That's a bit better than my old pack, which topped out around 218-220 recently. Not sure if things will change much after I drive it a while, can't imagine it will make any significant difference. Haven't tried to supercharge yet
Nice. Try to get photo of pack underneath front passenger tire.
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2AE7ECB0-E6AA-423C-84DA-CA8649CBB1A2.jpeg

Good point - should have checked the sticker. Looks like I got lucky and Tesla snuck in a 90kWh pack. I’d assume DRasheed’s story would be more typical with an 85 replacing an 85.

I did try out supercharging today - from 17% to 90%, started at 116kW, 90kW in the middle, and 40kW by the end. By far better than the old pack which would try about 113kW for a second, then quickly drop by half. Those who are more familiar with the 90kWh/350V packs might be able to gauge if this is typical or not.

As a side note, the Tesla’s charging time prediction was spot on +/- about a minute (50 minutes), something that I’ve never seen. Not sure if it’s due to the new software update that I’ve heard factors in pack temperature or if it’s related to the refurbished pack simply keeping up with expectations.
 
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I View attachment 807601
Good point - should have checked the sticker. Looks like I got lucky and Tesla snuck in a 90kWh pack. I’d assume DRasheed’s story would be more typical with an 85 replacing an 85.

I did try out supercharging today - from 17% to 90%, started at 116kW, 90kW in the middle, and 40kW by the end. By far better than the old pack which would try about 113kW for a second, then quickly drop by half. Those who are more familiar with the 90kWh/350V packs might be able to gauge if this is typical or not.

As a side note, the Tesla’s charging time prediction was spot on +/- about a minute (50 minutes), something that I’ve never seen. Not sure if it’s due to the new software update that I’ve heard factors in pack temperature or if it’s related to the refurbished pack simply keeping up with expectations.
Seems like Tesla is giving brand new 90kwh pack for ~$11k. Enjoy!!
 
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I View attachment 807601
Good point - should have checked the sticker. Looks like I got lucky and Tesla snuck in a 90kWh pack. I’d assume DRasheed’s story would be more typical with an 85 replacing an 85.

I did try out supercharging today - from 17% to 90%, started at 116kW, 90kW in the middle, and 40kW by the end. By far better than the old pack which would try about 113kW for a second, then quickly drop by half. Those who are more familiar with the 90kWh/350V packs might be able to gauge if this is typical or not.

As a side note, the Tesla’s charging time prediction was spot on +/- about a minute (50 minutes), something that I’ve never seen. Not sure if it’s due to the new software update that I’ve heard factors in pack temperature or if it’s related to the refurbished pack simply keeping up with expectations.
Man I'm so jealous. I specifically inquired about that pack and they told me it would be 23K plus a suspension adjustment or something like that. I wish I could have good range and decent supercharging so my car would be good to use for road trips. As it is now it is fine for short/medium trips < 200 miles or so, but more than that and it just gets to be a drag with long charging stops. I actually considered paying the 23k for the pack but couldn't justify it.
 
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Man I'm so jealous. I specifically inquired about that pack and they told me it would be 23K plus a suspension adjustment or something like that. I wish I could have good range and decent supercharging so my car would be good to use for road trips. As it is now it is fine for short/medium trips < 200 miles or so, but more than that and it just gets to be a drag with long charging stops. I actually considered paying the 23k for the pack but couldn't justify it.
Weren't some of the 90KWh packs problematic? At least with the P90D, there were a greater number of failures than the P85Ds. Tesla was bringing silicon into the chemistry. I'm sure you're covered, but I think a few of those have been in/out.
 
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Weren't some of the 90KWh packs problematic? At least with the P90D, there were a greater number of failures than the P85Ds. Tesla was bringing silicon into the chemistry. I'm sure you're covered, but I think a few of those have been in/out.
I have one of those early 90 packs in my P90DL, 350 volts and so far it’s holding up nicely with good SC speeds. Degradation seems higher than average (approx 12%) though.
 
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Good point - should have checked the sticker. Looks like I got lucky and Tesla snuck in a 90kWh pack. I’d assume DRasheed’s story would be more typical with an 85 replacing an 85.

I did try out supercharging today - from 17% to 90%, started at 116kW, 90kW in the middle, and 40kW by the end. By far better than the old pack which would try about 113kW for a second, then quickly drop by half. Those who are more familiar with the 90kWh/350V packs might be able to gauge if this is typical or not.
.....

you lose somewhere and you gain somewhere. the 350V as name suggest has less voltage, meaning the maximal car performance is reduced from 400 to 350, losing some 10-15% on max power as motor drivers are current limited. on a P85 you would have 280kW max instead of 320kW
 
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I have a2013 p85+ with 71k miles that just went into “limp mode” limiting charging to 43% ?!? :( any advice? Thank you
Things got worse from here. I bought a mx+ OBD tool and the scam my tesla app. I found that one of the 16 modules/bricks was a at a slightly lower voltage. This progressed into a HV battery failure warning. I ended up replacing the HV battery with a new 90Kwh battery. $22K ouch!
Now it supercharges faster and has more range, 300 miles. So there is an silver lining.
 
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Things got worse from here. I bought a mx+ OBD tool and the scam my tesla app. I found that one of the 16 modules/bricks was a at a slightly lower voltage. This progressed into a HV battery failure warning. I ended up replacing the HV battery with a new 90Kwh battery. $22K ouch!
Now it supercharges faster and has more range, 300 miles. So there is an silver lining.
I have some recommendations for people with older cars.
Things I wish I had done.
1. Leave my car plugged in for balancing and heating from charging and managing a higher average battery temp.
2. Preheat the battery in cold weather(temps below 60F 15C)
here is how:
The battery heater will kick on if you "defrost" the car in the app.
Turn on the car heat, go to the climate menu and scroll down to "defrost" click yes. this will turn the cabin heater on HI and also turn on a coolant heater and water pump for the battery heater.

When temps are 31F 0C it can take 20-30 minutes (5%-7% of battery capacity) of preheating to get the yellow re-gen bars to disappear.

3. Never supercharge a cold battery. defrost/preheat the battery before you leave and set your destination as a supercharger so it will be at an ideal temperature by the time you get there

4. If the battery is still cold (yellow bars are still showing ) when you have to leave your house:
drive slower/accelerate slowly
turn the re-gen to low.
make your destination a supercharge. This will trick the car into turning on the battery heater.
 
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I have some recommendations for people with older cars.
Things I wish I had done.
1. Leave my car plugged in for balancing and heating from charging and managing a higher average battery temp.
2. Preheat the battery in cold weather(temps below 60F 15C)
here is how:
The battery heater will kick on if you "defrost" the car in the app.
Turn on the car heat, go to the climate menu and scroll down to "defrost" click yes. this will turn the cabin heater on HI and also turn on a coolant heater and water pump for the battery heater.
Thanks for the detailed suggestions.

In your opinion, when using scheduled departure with cabin preheating, does it achieve by default your recommendations ?
 
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I have some recommendations for people with older cars.
Things I wish I had done.
1. Leave my car plugged in for balancing and heating from charging and managing a higher average battery temp.
2. Preheat the battery in cold weather(temps below 60F 15C)
here is how:
The battery heater will kick on if you "defrost" the car in the app.
Turn on the car heat, go to the climate menu and scroll down to "defrost" click yes. this will turn the cabin heater on HI and also turn on a coolant heater and water pump for the battery heater.

When temps are 31F 0C it can take 20-30 minutes (5%-7% of battery capacity) of preheating to get the yellow re-gen bars to disappear.

3. Never supercharge a cold battery. defrost/preheat the battery before you leave and set your destination as a supercharger so it will be at an ideal temperature by the time you get there

4. If the battery is still cold (yellow bars are still showing ) when you have to leave your house:
drive slower/accelerate slowly
turn the re-gen to low.
make your destination a supercharge. This will trick the car into turning on the battery heater.

There is no proof that any of these things matter. On older cars, water intrusion is a big factor and none of these things help with that.

The car does not heat when plugged in unless it is very cold and it does not sit there and balance. It would probably not run a heater in Seattle at all if just plugged in. Maybe if left outside for a long time during a very cold spell. Most people garage and in most places that is a pretty happy place for a battery on the low side.

I don't know if the algorithm changed but it used to only run a heater below 32 degrees battery temp. Given the thermal mass, this takes awhile. A garage in Seattle should be above 50 most of the time I would think.

Your cautions about a cold battery are fairly reasonable - but there still is no proof that this makes a big difference. And it certainly doesn't impact water intrusion.
 
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Attempting to convince people to purchase Tesla, I been getting feedback from them that it is too costly to change a bad battery. I would like to give them assurances that it would not cost that much; i.e. over 10K+. What do you recommend that I say to would be buyers if battery replacement was not so expensive?
About $13,500 & some change for a refurbished 85 right now.
 
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There is no proof that any of these things matter. On older cars, water intrusion is a big factor and none of these things help with that.

The car does not heat when plugged in unless it is very cold and it does not sit there and balance. It would probably not run a heater in Seattle at all if just plugged in. Maybe if left outside for a long time during a very cold spell. Most people garage and in most places that is a pretty happy place for a battery on the low side.

I don't know if the algorithm changed but it used to only run a heater below 32 degrees battery temp. Given the thermal mass, this takes awhile. A garage in Seattle should be above 50 most of the time I would think.

Your cautions about a cold battery are fairly reasonable - but there still is no proof that this makes a big difference. And it certainly doesn't impact water intrusion.
Hi Dave, My recommendations are based on things I have read from Tesla and studies done on L-ion battery chemistry and longevity. google studies of battery longevity and the effect of cycles of charging and depths of discharge. Also look into the difference that temperature has on the same discharge charge cycles and longevity . Then look at rate of discharge and charge on battery longevity.

My post had nothing to do with water intrusion. My car was never in a flood. Or did I ever have a leak in my battery coolant system.
Did your car have a problem with water intrusion? I have seen the impact on batteries when a car has been in a flood. massive damage, dead battery. My battery failed slowly over the course of months. A slow decline in capacity and at the same time a gradual increase in the millivolt difference in the battery modules that make up the bricks(16) that make up the big 85Kwh battery pack.

My car has displayed a message that my car was heating the battery with the car plugged in as I was preparing to leave.
My car is parked outside many teslas are not but I have also seen many that are. In the winter we have at least a few weeks where the weather is near or below 0 in Seattle.
If you are interested google charging cold lithium ion batteries. see what you find. Short answer the chemistry in batteries is optimized for room temperature. remember 18650s are laptop batteries. They work best at that temperature. The old battery packs will heat up to 85F for optimal speeds supercharging. my replacement pack has a different battery chemistry H cell. The target temp for optimal supercharging with the new battery pack is 125F.
 
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