Keeping my model 3 Long term.

[fafrost]

I have a 2018 Tesla model three, all wheel drive for self driving, has been ceramic coated PPL from the start.

It is paid off, still looks and runs, great, and out of the 310 original range I still get 286 on a full charge.

88,000 miles no issues, and replace the back up battery one time about six months ago, that is my total maintenance. I’m only the second set of tires with are still great.

I would like to keep my Tesla for five additional years. I know the car hasn’t been out that long, but how many of you are keeping your Tesla model threes similar to me, and what’s the longest range you’ve gotten out of them without major maintenance?

From what I’ve read the only thing I may have maintenance is if part of the battery goes bad, which would run about $5000 per module.

Really would rather continue to invest that car payment.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Shelburne]

We bought our M3LR almost exactly three years ago. We are hoping to keep it for as much as 10 years. We've always tried to keep our cars for that long. Right now we have just over 23,000 miles on it. The only repairs we've had were when our left front fender camera stopped working (it was a loose connection, fixed in our driveway in 20 minutes) and a loose piece of trim on the interior of the B pillar. That was fixed in less than 40 minutes. We love the car and as long as it continues to work this well we plan to hold on to it. Our biggest concern is how will it hold up to rust and corrosion. We live in New England, so lots of salt on the roads from November till April. Time will tell.

 

[LoudMusic]

I think Tesla refined the battery building and maintaining processes with the Model S prior to the Model 3 development. I'm sure there have been high voltage battery failures in Model 3s, but the statistics are almost certainly tiny by comparison to Model S where we have the longest data to build estimates from. The expected range loss from this point forward shouldn't be much more than a percent or two.

I have a 2020 Model Y with 81k miles. I intend to keep it very long term. Basically I'm curious how many miles I can put on it.

 

[tashtibet]

I waited 2 yrs, 2 months & 6 days for my 2018 M3 RWD-2nd M3 in Northern Colorado. Did tint, PPF, Ceramic coat etc but sold in 2020 for MY. Never a car person but eco friendly and since supported/invested in T$LA. Right now, looking to trade in for newest MY.

 

[al-capone]

RWD is projected to be at $35k or lower come December. (in inventory). With the fed rebate that is $27.5k. Assuming you get $15k to $20k for your trade that is like getting a new M3 for $10k with all the RWD goodness, handling and LFP long term durability that NCA cannot hold a candle to. Plus, you get the newer comfort tuned suspension, double pane glass, heat pump...and what not. You really want to keep your car still.?

 

[skygraff]

I’m not the OP but I’m gonna say yes to that question.

Paid off is paid off and, with so little maintenance, the few enhancements in newer versions just don’t necessarily offset benefits of that first point as well as, maybe, a few others.

For example, even without double pane, still the quietest road tripper I’ve ever owned. The resistive heater may not be as efficient but, other than finding the sweet spot of keeping the windows defogged while using seat heat for comfort, there are ways to keep range pretty close. Speaking of range, I never got the 325 bump but, at 40k, I still see 308 of my original 310 when the battery and BMS have rebalanced.

Grandfathered into premium connectivity, nearly lie flat back seat when folded (sure, not as comfortable for back seat passengers but great for car camping), and bought FSD (even if it is annoyingly unpredictable) way before the price gouging for the same annoyingly unpredictable functions (wasn’t goaded into quick decisions because of a one-time “amnesty”).

I plan to keep mine at least as long as my last car (1994 Acura Integra purchased in ‘97) and, despite concerns with Tesla paint and a similar environment as the OP, hope body corrosion can be minimized. That was the deciding factor for my pulling the trigger on RWD in spring of 2018 (without knowing when AWD would come out) since both fuel and brake lines of the Integra were massively corroded (bad design with channel just concentrating road salt).

I did just replace my upper and lateral control arms (the squeak!) and there was more corrosion on nearby suspension parts than I would’ve liked. While I garage and the winters have been relatively mild over the past 5 years, I didn’t take my car to a car wash to get the underside cleaned until just this past winter. Before that, I was doing waterless by hand (while searching for touchless) and underbody wasn’t accessible.

 

[ks1972]

I’m not the OP but I’m gonna say yes to that question.

Paid off is paid off and, with so little maintenance, the few enhancements in newer versions just don’t necessarily offset benefits of that first point as well as, maybe, a few others.

For example, even without double pane, still the quietest road tripper I’ve ever owned. The resistive heater may not be as efficient but, other than finding the sweet spot of keeping the windows defogged while using seat heat for comfort, there are ways to keep range pretty close. Speaking of range, I never got the 325 bump but, at 40k, I still see 308 of my original 310 when the battery and BMS have rebalanced.

Grandfathered into premium connectivity, nearly lie flat back seat when folded (sure, not as comfortable for back seat passengers but great for car camping), and bought FSD (even if it is annoyingly unpredictable) way before the price gouging for the same annoyingly unpredictable functions (wasn’t goaded into quick decisions because of a one-time “amnesty”).

I plan to keep mine at least as long as my last car (1994 Acura Integra purchased in ‘97) and, despite concerns with Tesla paint and a similar environment as the OP, hope body corrosion can be minimized. That was the deciding factor for my pulling the trigger on RWD in spring of 2018 (without knowing when AWD would come out) since both fuel and brake lines of the Integra were massively corroded (bad design with channel just concentrating road salt).

I did just replace my upper and lateral control arms (the squeak!) and there was more corrosion on nearby suspension parts than I would’ve liked. While I garage and the winters have been relatively mild over the past 5 years, I didn’t take my car to a car wash to get the underside cleaned until just this past winter. Before that, I was doing waterless by hand (while searching for touchless) and underbody wasn’t accessible.

You forgot to mention you have USS and summon and auto park work. TeslaVision is a sh!tshow with no end in sight, it’s a shame really

 

[skygraff]

You forgot to mention you have USS and summon and auto park work. TeslaVision is a sh!tshow with no end in sight, it’s a shame really

Summon has only worked once when I needed it, all other attempts have failed but, in Tesla’s defense, those happened when I was trying to show it off and stage fright is a common phobia. As for auto-park, the same may apply but, even when I’m alone, it only shows available about 10% of the time. Usually, I’m surprised because I think it’s on software induced hiatus.

Yes, our older cars still have USS but I didn’t include that since, rumor has it, they may disable it someday like our vestigial radar hardware.

We do have adjustable passenger lumbar!

 

[ks1972]

Summon has only worked once when I needed it, all other attempts have failed but, in Tesla’s defense, those happened when I was trying to show it off and stage fright is a common phobia. As for auto-park, the same may apply but, even when I’m alone, it only shows available about 10% of the time. Usually, I’m surprised because I think it’s on software induced hiatus.

Yes, our older cars still have USS but I didn’t include that since, rumor has it, they may disable it someday like our vestigial radar hardware.

We do have adjustable passenger lumbar!

Smart summon is not that smart.
As for auto park, you have to be driving at 7-8mph. It shows up for me 80% of the time.
You also forgot the HomeLink

 

[father_of_6]

From what I’ve read the only thing I may have maintenance is if part of the battery goes bad, which would run about $5000 per module.

Unfortunately, that doesn't work. Replacing the battery is all or nothing. If even one cell goes bad (almost like a single AA battery), you need a whole new pack.

Pack replacement is still pretty expensive. It's like 11 hours of labor. Think it's around $15k.

 

[neurocutie]

I will probably also keep my LR AWD 2020 for quite a well. I just really like it, plus not sure I want to deal with a no-stalk steering wheel. Also not sure about the heat pump in -15F winters -- is it now reliable? it certainly wasn't before. But yes, the one thing I will worry about is rust...

 

[PianoAl]

Nick has 75k miles. I decided it's not worth it to plan a strategy now for down the road. I'll just evaluate how I feel now and then and see what's available.

Summon and autopark won't ever factor into my decision. I've rarely used them.

The lack of proper warning tones with Teslavision is annoying.

 

[hari-bhari]

I am at 60k and planning to just ride it out. Car is paid off and I am still at 93% range. Full FSD.

Unless they come out with a model with significantly more range (like at least 20-25%), I won't be compelled to upgrade. I mean in 5 years if this one starts giving me trouble, I'll still get a used one with 20k miles with the newer battery and probably still only pay $10k difference in price to upgrade. I'm not eligible for the tax credit so it doesn't factor into my equation.

 

[nicksp]

RWD is projected to be at $35k or lower come December. (in inventory). With the fed rebate that is $27.5k. Assuming you get $15k to $20k for your trade that is like getting a new M3 for $10k with all the RWD goodness, handling and LFP long term durability that NCA cannot hold a candle to. Plus, you get the newer comfort tuned suspension, double pane glass, heat pump...and what not. You really want to keep your car still.?

That cheapest model is 45k out the door. I don't think premium audio comes with that. Also not everyone may qualify for the tax rebate.

 

[nicksp]

I was in the same boat. I purchased a 18 M3LR for 28.9k out the door. Great inside out abs I still get 296 miles range. I haven't done a BMS reset yet. I priced the new M3LR and the out the door price was 52k. I absolutely had to have the premium audio system. The standard audio is not that good.

 

[rpiotro]

RWD is projected to be at $35k or lower come December. (in inventory). With the fed rebate that is $27.5k. Assuming you get $15k to $20k for your trade that is like getting a new M3 for $10k with all the RWD goodness, handling and LFP long term durability that NCA cannot hold a candle to. Plus, you get the newer comfort tuned suspension, double pane glass, heat pump...and what not. You really want to keep your car still.?

Being the resident pedant I feel a need to point out yet again, it is not a rebate. It is a tax credit.

 

[afadeev]

I have a 2018 Tesla model three, all wheel drive for self driving, has been ceramic coated PPL from the start.
[...]88,000 miles no issues, and replace the back up battery one time about six months ago, that is my total maintenance. I’m only the second set of tires with are still great.
[...]It is paid off, still looks and runs, great, and out of the 310 original range I still get 286 on a full charge.

I am at 60K miles, and considered ditching my TM3P last fall. Residual values were unappealing (45-48% of new vehicle price from initial paper offer, which dropped down to <40% once you showed up to consummate the transaction). It was cheaper to keep her.

I would like to keep my Tesla for five additional years.
From what I’ve read the only thing I may have maintenance is if part of the battery goes bad, which would run about $5000 per module.

There is a LOT more to maintenance than just occasional battery and tire replacements.
There is a separate thread on that here: My 5+ years of "low maintenance" ownership

BTW, tesla's battery does not have individual modules. You either swap the whole thing, or not.
Parts and labor for Tesla battery swap have been various quoted between $15-20K.

Replacing The Battery Pack On A Tesla Model 3 Costs More Than You Think - SlashGear

There's no doubt the Tesla Model 3 is an appealing car, but prospective buyers should keep in mind the eventual battery replacement costs when budgeting.

www.slashgear.com

Which will likely be the value of the car after 4-7 years, depending on what model you had bought.
After that, the car is, basically, disposable.
I plan to enjoy it until it either falls apart, or I get bored with it and want something new. Whichever comes first.

a

 

[KenC]

I have a 2018 Tesla model three, all wheel drive for self driving, has been ceramic coated PPL from the start.

It is paid off, still looks and runs, great, and out of the 310 original range I still get 286 on a full charge.

88,000 miles no issues, and replace the back up battery one time about six months ago, that is my total maintenance. I’m only the second set of tires with are still great.

I would like to keep my Tesla for five additional years. I know the car hasn’t been out that long, but how many of you are keeping your Tesla model threes similar to me, and what’s the longest range you’ve gotten out of them without major maintenance?

From what I’ve read the only thing I may have maintenance is if part of the battery goes bad, which would run about $5000 per module.

Really would rather continue to invest that car payment.

Thanks in advance!

Same here. 2018 LR-AWD, made 5yrs ago, with 53k miles. I typically keep my cars for 10 or more years and 200k miles, but I'm retired now, so I'm thinking I'll get the CT towards the end of the first year of production, and then give my 3 to my older brother, in SoCal. For some odd reason, he's risk-averse, so he won't buy himself a new one, would rather have mine.

What have I spent on my car? 2 sets of tires; warranty service on squeaky arms; warranty on blurry backup cam; CPU upgrade to v3; 12V replaced myself after 4yrs; air filters replaced 2x; battery fluid checked annually; two sets of wipers. A couple bottles of wiper fluid. And two wheel alignments.

 

[PianoAl]

I've wondered whether a model with, say, 600 miles or range would tempt me but realized that it wouldn't make much difference.

For local driving, no difference.

For trips, we usually eat or have coffee while supercharging, so fewer stops wouldn't be a big advantage.

 

[afadeev]

I've wondered whether a model with, say, 600 miles or range would tempt me but realized that it wouldn't make much difference.

I had similar thoughts a few years ago.
Even if there was no delta price increase for 2x range (unrealistic), 2x battery would add another ~1,000 lbs to the weight of the car, and turn it into an SUV/cross-over to fit a second layer of batteries.
And on top of that, add another $10-20K for the extra batteries.

For local driving, no difference.

Exactly.

For trips, we usually eat or have coffee while supercharging, so fewer stops wouldn't be a big advantage.

That, plus the mid-size car/sedan form-factor would no longer be realistic.
With all that in mind, I would prefer staying with 300-350 mile range for EV sedans.
Definitely longer for EV trucks, to offset towing range penalties.