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Lets talk mud flaps, spot welded nuts and loose bolts (also why every Model Y owner needs mud flaps)

907XCP

Member
Sep 10, 2020
158
124
Alaska
I purchased the EVMudFlaps in 2020 for our MY and yes it does require drilling but that sucker will stay on the car for good. It was a rock solid mud flap set and I used it for an entire year in Alaska including a long winter and those flaps exceeded my expectations. They look nice and are a perfect fit. They are on the pricier side but cheaper than Rally Armor. You will need a pivot screw driver piece in order to get it all installed but you do not need to remove any tires like someone mentioned a couple pages back. I will be purchasing them again for our MYP
 
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optx002

Member
Aug 29, 2021
16
9
Socal
My service appointment was pushed out to next friday. I will update you guys then.

These are the pictures of the bolt that was not coming out and the after picture showing the "nut" that the bolt goes into, but its cylindrical so it just spun with the bolt.

Also notice the 2nd hole without anything in there. It was the same on the other side. Is everyones like that?


View attachment 732320

View attachment 732321


So the mobile service technician came out, removed the underbelly plastic shield under the trunk and told me that the car needs to go to the body shop to have it repaired. The previous technician must not have put in the proper order as the 2nd technician brought a new underbelly but the nut needs to be "welded" on the car. If it wasnt a brand new tesla, i would be ok going to the hardware store and putting on a locking nut but figured i'll take it in to the service center and get it repaired the right way. sorry i dont have a real update but once I get it back from the body shop, i will update everyone.
 

e645824

Member
May 15, 2021
163
217
USA
I purchased the mud flaps from EVmudflaps for my MYLR:

The process took about a half hour to gather up the tools, move the car, and put in the four flaps. Here are my experiences:
  1. I did the procedure with the car on the ground with all of the wheels still attached and the wheels straight ahead
  2. A right-angle drill adapter is REQUIRED. His video shows a DeWalt but I have a Milwaukee.
  3. A small nail puller worked great. Probably much better than a screwdriver. I bought a small nail puller just for this.
  4. I heated up two cups of water in the microwave until boiling, then put the pop-ins in there and let them sit for 10 minutes. They sink.
  5. The textured side of each flap goes towards the rear of the car. They are textured on one side and smooth on the other.
  6. The front flaps have 3 vertical holes, the rear flaps have 2 vertical holes
  7. The hole for the rear flap that is in metal is a real pain to get in correctly.
  8. I used my DeWalt drill on torque setting #1 (the lowest) to drive the screws. It worked fine and didn't strip them.
  9. I did all of the pop-ins first on all four flaps, then I went back and did all of the screws.
  10. I also did the far screw on each of the two rear flaps. The video said that they were optional, but I think they are required. Once again, a right-angle adapter is required.

For the pop-in that went through metal on one of the rear flaps (step #7), I ended up trying 3 pop-ins before I got it to work. The kit includes extras. This isn't the kit's fault, it is just difficult to do; inserting the pop-in seems to push-back the plastic a little with-respect-to the metal so it isn't all the way in. A combination of pushing and twisting seemed to work, then the center pops in correctly with some leverage.

Milwaukee right-angle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VYL7299
Small nail puller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXHRTRF

Here are some photos. The flaps are large, but they look fine on the car. I've already chrome deleted the emblems, and have ordered Rimetrix hubcaps for the wheels. So these sized flaps seem apropos.

Basically, this kit is expensive for just four flat plastic pieces with holes drilled and a bag of pop-ins and screws. However, everything is well made, fits well, is the right shape, the holes are in the right places, and I'm happy with it.

Scott

--

MYLR | Red ext | White int | 19" | 5 seats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021


IMG_0199.JPG


IMG_0201.JPG


IMG_0200.JPG


IMG_0204.JPG


IMG_0206.JPG
 
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Well, I'm late to the party.. My MYP is really stuck, and the mobile service could not get this screw out. I was helping him by holding a long pliers to try to hold the nut while turning the wrench, but no luck.
Sad part is, I didn't even have mud flaps to install at the time. I was just playing around with different(size) socket and it was unreasonably hard to turn it as if it was not threaded correctly. Then SNAP!
My car was only few days old, and below 100 miles at the time, and I do have other minor issues, so they scheduled me to come in for service.
It's currently just rattling around on its own, but I don't hear anything in the cabin for sure.
6.jpg
5.jpg
 

e645824

Member
May 15, 2021
163
217
USA
Well, I'm late to the party.. My MYP is really stuck, and the mobile service could not get this screw out. I was helping him by holding a long pliers to try to hold the nut while turning the wrench, but no luck.
Sad part is, I didn't even have mud flaps to install at the time. I was just playing around with different(size) socket and it was unreasonably hard to turn it as if it was not threaded correctly. Then SNAP!
My car was only few days old, and below 100 miles at the time, and I do have other minor issues, so they scheduled me to come in for service.
It's currently just rattling around on its own, but I don't hear anything in the cabin for sure.
View attachment 747520View attachment 747519

Trying holding the head with plyers and then use a small cut-off wheel to cut the thread (Dremel or other small hand-held). I don't know if this would actually work, but it seems like it might work. According to previous reports elsewhere, the alternative is to remove panels.

Or just ignore it until you actually need to remove that screw for some reason. The screw is still doing it job...

Likewise, the EVmudflaps that I installed (photos above) don't require removing that screw. So your photo is the poster child of why to avoid mud flips that require removing that screw ;) Sadly, there are numerous threads about people running into exactly the same problem that you've experienced.

Scott

--

MYLR | Red ext | White int | 19" | 5 seats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021
 
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PackMan730

Member
Jul 11, 2021
322
205
Glendale CA
I purchased the mud flaps from EVmudflaps for my MYLR:

The process took about a half hour to gather up the tools, move the car, and put in the four flaps. Here are my experiences:
  1. I did the procedure with the car on the ground with all of the wheels still attached and the wheels straight ahead
  2. A right-angle drill adapter is REQUIRED. His video shows a DeWalt but I have a Milwaukee.
  3. A small nail puller worked great. Probably much better than a screwdriver. I bought a small nail puller just for this.
  4. I heated up two cups of water in the microwave until boiling, then put the pop-ins in there and let them sit for 10 minutes. They sink.
  5. The textured side of each flap goes towards the rear of the car. They are textured on one side and smooth on the other.
  6. The front flaps have 3 vertical holes, the rear flaps have 2 vertical holes
  7. The hole for the rear flap that is in metal is a real pain to get in correctly.
  8. I used my DeWalt drill on torque setting #1 (the lowest) to drive the screws. It worked fine and didn't strip them.
  9. I did all of the pop-ins first on all four flaps, then I went back and did all of the screws.
  10. I also did the far screw on each of the two rear flaps. The video said that they were optional, but I think they are required. Once again, a right-angle adapter is required.

For the pop-in that went through metal on one of the rear flaps (step #7), I ended up trying 3 pop-ins before I got it to work. The kit includes extras. This isn't the kit's fault, it is just difficult to do; inserting the pop-in seems to push-back the plastic a little with-respect-to the metal so it isn't all the way in. A combination of pushing and twisting seemed to work, then the center pops in correctly with some leverage.

Milwaukee right-angle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VYL7299
Small nail puller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXHRTRF

Here are some photos. The flaps are large, but they look fine on the car. I've already chrome deleted the emblems, and have ordered Rimetrix hubcaps for the wheels. So these sized flaps seem apropos.

Basically, this kit is expensive for just four flat plastic pieces with holes drilled and a bag of pop-ins and screws. However, everything is well made, fits well, is the right shape, the holes are in the right places, and I'm happy with it.

Scott

--

MYLR | Red ext | White int | 19" | 5 seats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021


View attachment 736550

View attachment 736551

View attachment 736552

View attachment 736553

View attachment 736554
These look like the rally armour ones.
 

boriska007

New Member
Jan 15, 2022
1
0
USA
My car had a 2nd hole without anything there also.
I was lucky one of the nut just fell off when I was trying to put the bolt back, the other one fell got lose when I was trying to unscrew it, I eventually had to cut it with a saw 🤯 I don’t understand how did they manage to screw up such a basic mechanical design. On top of that they made the nut round so there was no way to grip it while unscrewing. I also put those plastic fasteners instead of the screw, hope it will hold…
 

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