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Unplugged Super Performance (1.5" drop) springs on my P3D+
I had UP do the install at their shop two weeks ago and promptly went for an alignment (a mile from their shop for $75) and then to get wrapped. Considering I've never had a lowered car before, it hasn't been very problematic. One minor scrape due to approach angle entering a steep driveway. While it might be slightly less forgiving over crappy roads, the reduction in body roll when turning in makes up for it IMO. I don't go to the track enough to justify the spend on a full coilover setup, so I'm happy with the ~$800 mod.
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Unplugged Super Performance (1.5" drop) springs on my P3D+
I had UP do the install at their shop two weeks ago and promptly went for an alignment (a mile from their shop for $75) and then to get wrapped. Considering I've never had a lowered car before, it hasn't been very problematic. One minor scrape due to approach angle entering a steep driveway. While it might be slightly less forgiving over crappy roads, the reduction in body roll when turning in makes up for it IMO. I don't go to the track enough to justify the spend on a full coilover setup, so I'm happy with the ~$800 mod.
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Suggested MSRP $539, is that in usd? jeez that's high...Great. Now H&R is coming out with springs to completely cement my decision paralysis. And at 1.2" all around, hits a sweet spot.
H&R Special Springs, LP.
MSRP doesn't mean that's what they will cost. I last purchased coilers for my S5 which were about $1600 and they are just a tad over $1200 or about 25% off. That means a street price will likely be somewhere north of $400. Still more than most.....Suggested MSRP $539, is that in usd? jeez that's high...
Can someone explain lowering springs to me like a child? Lol. Dual motor awd in nj. I have 20” staggered wheels on the way this week which will be in use for warm weather and will use the stock Aeros during winters.
Tsportline are linear/progressive and 1” drop
UP are dual rate and say 1.5”
Eibach I think are 1” too but this thread seems to say they are not. not looking for reverse rake... is that a given if i go with eibach?
I just want to close the gap a bit and have a useable ride all year long on either set of wheels. Never plan on racing since I almost always have 2 car seats in the back, i dont mind a firmer ride, not looking for firmer but if the springs do that then so be it. also, what sort of install costs are typical for springs?
Suggestions?
Can someone explain lowering springs to me like a child? Lol. Dual motor awd in nj. I have 20” staggered wheels on the way this week which will be in use for warm weather and will use the stock Aeros during winters.
Tsportline are linear/progressive and 1” drop
UP are dual rate and say 1.5”
Eibach I think are 1” too but this thread seems to say they are not. not looking for reverse rake... is that a given if i go with eibach?
I just want to close the gap a bit and have a useable ride all year long on either set of wheels. Never plan on racing since I almost always have 2 car seats in the back, i dont mind a firmer ride, not looking for firmer but if the springs do that then so be it. also, what sort of install costs are typical for springs?
Suggestions?
Show offI'll try to explain like a child
So springs surround struts and work as part of the suspension system. I'll spare how they specifically work in conjunction, but they do dictate the height of the car. Much similar to when you put heavy objects in the trunk, you can feel the car get lower. You can even press down on the trunk and feel the car go down, then spring back up. That's the springs.
In fact, you can remove your stock springs, cut off some of the metal, reinstall and your car will be lower. This is not recommended for a variety of reasons, but people do it, typically to cheaper cars when they're broke
In terms of the spring options, when they mention a height, that is the height lowering from the springs. So a 1" drop and a 1.5" drop spring will effectively lower the car by that amount. It doesn't sound like a lot, but you'd be surprised how much half an inch is. The height of the car is dictated by the springs rates (how stiff the metal is), the weight of the car and other design factors.
Further complicating things for Tesla is that there are three different Tesla setups, RWD, AWD and AWD Performance. All of these utilize different springs, so when shopping or reading, you need to determine which spring anyone is talking about and in what configuration. I have an AWD Performance, so my Eibach posts are not really relevant from a height comparison to someone looking at TS or UP AWD springs. UP has told me in email that you can run AWD springs on P models, this was before they released P model springs. So they fit, but they're just designed for different applications.
In most cases, lowering springs do run stiffer, partially because there's less overall room to travel, so they need to be stiffer and not ride like grandpa's 70s Cadillac. Similarly, most people who lower cars tend to want performance so they don't mind stiffer. Most spring companies also realize their target audience, and as such, the springs available for Teslas aren't overly stiff. They're definitely firmer, but nothing outrageous.
Finally, linear vs progressive just means how spring rates work. A linear spring means it is effectively a single rate throughout the spring. Effectively, as the spring compresses against the shock travel, it does so at a linear rate. This creates a predictable and consistent spring rate. Progressive springs aim to try to give the best of both worlds. When less compressed and earlier in shock travel, they compress easier and provide a softer ride, but as they compress more, they stiffen up providing more performance under hard cornering or severe bumps. In my decades of lowering cars, I've never really noticed a difference. Remember, you need the spring to be stiff enough to avoid bottoming out, so again, spring rates of lowering springs are typically stiffer than that of stock springs as they have less total travel available. As a result, some people cut/recommend cutting bumpstops to get a little travel back.
Here's a decent chart:
Anyways, hope that helps, wrote it in a hurry. A .75"-1.0" drop is sufficient to dramatically increase the looks of the car while providing a compliant ride. Certain steep driveways, etc. may need a bit more care, but there are plenty of cars lower on the road.
Thanks! That is Spectra Photosync 35%That tint looks great with the white interior. Still shows them off and isn't too dark
What kind and what % is your tint?
Can you post a side profile pic? Thanks.Unplugged Super Performance (1.5" drop) springs on my P3D+
I had UP do the install at their shop two weeks ago and promptly went for an alignment (a mile from their shop for $75) and then to get wrapped. Considering I've never had a lowered car before, it hasn't been very problematic. One minor scrape due to approach angle entering a steep driveway. While it might be slightly less forgiving over crappy roads, the reduction in body roll when turning in makes up for it IMO. I don't go to the track enough to justify the spend on a full coilover setup, so I'm happy with the ~$800 mod.
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i cannot agree more brother ! feels just like if not better than stock! and the look is phenomenalJust lowered mine today with unplugged LOW springs and the ride is great! Really firm and no squeaks! I was shocked with the results, however the rear does look lower but the staff at unplugged said it’s the design and rear fenders from TESLA. I believe it’s for aerodynamic then if the rear fender is like designed like that...?