blurrybird
Member
Do any of you get door trim rattle when you have your bass cranked with these setups? Obviously with no engine noise, trim rattle is my concern with upgrading the stock stuff.
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I love this setup. Very affordable as well. I searched through your post history but couldn't find where you pulled the audio wires from? Did you just posi-tap them onto the existing subwoofer wiring harness?Tesla Harness here, RF 12 inch sub with built in amp, almost too much base (if that's possible)
I do get some trunk rattle, it’s only heard outside of the vehicle and when blasted. I plan to add some sound deadening to alleviate this. No discernible door/trim rattle otherwise.Do any of you get door trim rattle when you have your bass cranked with these setups? Obviously with no engine noise, trim rattle is my concern with upgrading the stock stuff.
There is an individual in Brampton that does hansshow installs (package f) for 1500 cad (parts included). I'll try to dig up the info.Do you know of any shops in the Guelph area doing the speaker mods?
My tesla offer kit had sub out wires...I love this setup. Very affordable as well. I searched through your post history but couldn't find where you pulled the audio wires from? Did you just posi-tap them onto the existing subwoofer wiring harness?
Please tell me that you completely sealed off the quarter sized hole on the edge of each 3D printed speaker baffle with some silicone or cld (dynamat, noico, etc.). you not you are not getting the full potential of your Focal 8's due to front/ rear wave cancellationI needed low end bass as well and upgraded my SR+ audio with the following:
Speaker Activation - Wire Harness (Teslaoffer) (2hrs Install)
- Enabled 6 speakers (4 front/2 rear)
Upgraded Front Door Mid Bass Woofers (Audioliphe.com) (2hrs install)
- Focal ISU-200 8inch
- 3D Printed Mounts - printed over 4 days (ABS plastic)
Sub/Amp/LOC: (3hrs Install)
- 12inch Polk in Ported Box db1212 (360W RMS/26-200Hz, old gear I had laying around w/ below amp)
- 500W RMS Alpine Amp MRP-M500
- AudioControl LC7i Line Out Converter
- Scosche UAKP Universal Amp KwikPlug
- Rockford Fosgate Amp Kit
Outcome: speaker activation was cheap and truly enhanced the clarity, front door woofers increased bass response in an adequate fashion, but the sub install really made the difference and I more than pleased with the quality of bass not to mention it shakes the car. Although my sub/amp was laying around, to increase space I would opt for a JL microsub to place in the "sub-trunk" (how fitting ). Difficulty for everything was not hard, take your time and read through all of the plenty info found on this site which helped guide me. hope this helps.
Yea. The more we draw from the 1`2v the more will be drawn from the HV battery, eventually dinging range. Exactly how much isn't known as there hasn't been much data in that department. However I think it's not too bad if we're using digital and keeping things within reason. Just don't get into the 90's with 1/4 ohm Soundstream setups. I've wondered about something as simple as a dual 2ohm VC 8in sub and just simply replacing the stocker, but the aftermarket subs have crap efficiencies so we may lose volume instead gain. Tesla's speakers are all custom low ohm neodymium setups so very efficient.I used to install car audio. Didn’t do much in years because car systems much better than in the 90s. However even if I want to add a sub. Aren’t we losing range by adding more equipment to drain the battery?
Update to system:
I decided to move on from the 12inch sub box as I felt I needed the trunk space.
I purchased a Polk DB DVC 10inch Marine grade sub ($~100) (with water sliding off the rear window after opening the trunk after a rain fall, I felt this was necessary). I bought 3/4inch MDF ($15) and cut it to match the existing sub trunk cover for an infinite baffle setup. Cutting everything was easy with a sawzall. The result was amazing as it sounds as good, possibly better than the 12inch in a box. Was well worth the time to gain my trunk space back - very easy to do. I have a sub grill on order to protect it as it’s in the middle of the mdf. I just need to spend time cleaning up the wire configuration and mounting the amp and line out converter. Also, I added Noico sound deadening mat (80mil) and it appears to improved the bass resonance even further. Will probably add black carpet so that it matches existing fabric for an oem look.
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@amorris Sorry for the seriously late reply. The MDF plate just sits over the trunk well. It's cut to match the original trunk cover so it doesn't slide around. Due to the weight of the sub, it doesn't really move at all.I really am curious about the IB setup. How did you seal that MDF plate to the trunk well? Or is it just sitting on there?
@T3SLACL3 you are completely correct! I'm not an audiophile so I didn't think to do this initially. However after noticing that the Focal 8 inchers were not putting out their true potential I did use sound deadener (noico) to help. I still think there is room for further improvement with more sound deadning throughout the entire door cavity, but only on the major flat surface areas. Did you by chance 3d print the same brackets and experience this issue as well? Looking to learn from others experiences.Please tell me that you completely sealed off the quarter sized hole on the edge of each 3D printed speaker baffle with some silicone or cld (dynamat, noico, etc.). you not you are not getting the full potential of your Focal 8's due to front/ rear wave cancellation
I only see one link?