M3P sets new record in Bjørn's 1000km test

[tm1v2]

The latest European market M3P set a new record in Bjørn Nyland's 1000km test. Ambient temperature was pretty ideal, but still, a great result if not entirely surprising. It really shows how good the Model 3's combo of efficiency (including octovalve heat pump!), overall range, and charging speed (with preconditioning!) is.

And this was without any Supercharger DCFC benefit...if a similar test were performed in most parts of the US, all the non-Tesla EVs would unfortunately be even further behind with the inferior state of public DCFC here.

I believe all 2021+ North American market M3P with the heat pump should have essentially the same efficiency, range, and charging performance as the car Bjørn tested - same octovalve heat pump system, and same 82kW Panasonic battery pack. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about that!)

InsideEVs has a useful summary:

Tesla Model 3 Performance Sets New Record In Bjørn's 1,000 Km Challenge

The latest 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance has been recently tested in Bjørn Nyland's 1,000 km challenge, setting a new all-time EV record.

insideevs.com

Last thing I'll note is this is exactly why my wife and I ended up getting another Tesla - our 2021 M3P - as our second car, instead of another EV that we also quite liked. Our driving is of course different than Bjørn's test, but all the aspects that led to this great result have been really useful for us too.


Edit: Last last thing I'll note is switching our M3P to smaller diameter, much lighter 18x8.5" wheels with 245/45R18 tires improved its efficiency further, even though I stayed with "max performance" summer tires! (Ones that grip better than stock.) A 2021+ M3LR with 18" aero wheels and LRR tires - or M3P modded with such - ought to do even better than this result, weather willing. (We changed wheels just for better road/pothole protection, the efficiency gain was a surprising side benefit.)

 

[Candleflame]

tbh im not sure how much the heatpump actually contributes to on long journeys....
It doesnt get that cold here but I did do a 3h drive in 3-6 degrees and setting the A/C to 1 or 2 and 21C manually was actually enough together with the heated seats. Once the cabin is heated up it doesnt use much power to keep heating it it seeems.

 

[tm1v2]

The efficiency of our resistive heater S goes to absolute *sugar* on cold evening highway drives. I blame the glass roof in part for the cabin not retaining heat.

No such issue with our heat pump 3, despite also having a glass roof of course. I can run the heat toasty warm without caring about the efficiency impact at all, whereas doing that in our S is a serious range hit. Granted the 3's roof doesn't open so maybe it's better sealed and doesn't lose heat as rapidly.

 

[Candleflame]

The efficiency of our resistive heater S goes to absolute *sugar* on cold evening highway drives. I blame the glass roof in part for the cabin not retaining heat.

No such issue with our heat pump 3, despite also having a glass roof of course. I can run the heat toasty warm without caring about the efficiency impact at all, whereas doing that in our S is a serious range hit. Granted the 3's roof doesn't open so maybe it's better sealed and doesn't lose heat as rapidly.

in mid-coast Australia a lot of houses have heatpumps as opposed to central heating (I guess not worth it here as the winters are mild, short)
The reality is that a heatpump is about 2.5-3x as efficient as a blow heater which the old 3s and S/X have. So our 2.5kw resistance S heater now suddenly only uses 1kw...And if your battery has supercharged it will be even less as the heat can be syphoned from the battery pack too.

like my heatpump in the living room uses 2kw but has a heating power of 5.6kw I think. once the cabin has been warmed up maintainance heating really doesnt use much power for me though.... I suspect in the USA it just gets really fricking cold and you dont have the benefit of warm daytime temperatures. I.e. When I leave in the afternoon it might be 16C and then quickly drop to 0 over a few hours but the car will of course not need to be completely reheated as the metal, doortrim, trunk will still be warmish and just needs a bit of maintainance heat.

 

[mpgxsvcd]

I wish more people understood that “speed kills”….. your efficiency that is.

My morning commute has construction zones almost the whole way but no real traffic. That limits me to a 55 mph average highway speed.

When I utilize the S3XY buttons for true coasting I can achieve 162 Wh/mi for the 12 highway miles in my 2022 Model 3 Performance. That is with my 18” T Sportline TS5 wheels and Michelin PS4S tires.

When people say these cars need more range I say “simply slow down and you can have all of the range you want”. It gets me there 1 or 2 minutes later and not even that if I have to wait for the extremely long traffic lights .

 

[tm1v2]

I wish more people understood that “speed kills”….. your efficiency that is.

My morning commute has construction zones almost the whole way but no real traffic. That limits me to a 55 mph average highway speed.

When I utilize the S3XY buttons for true coasting I can achieve 162 Wh/mi for the 12 highway miles in my 2022 Model 3 Performance. That is with my 18” T Sportline TS5 wheels and Michelin PS4S tires.

When people say these cars need more range I say “simply slow down and you can have all of the range you want”. It gets me there 1 or 2 minutes later and not even that if I have to wait for the extremely long traffic lights .
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When you're getting passed by semis, driving slow doesn't feel safe.

Yes speed kills efficiency due to air resistance, but if it's cold out, speed also saps cabin heat really quickly in our S at least. Using the resistive heater to keep the cabin warm becomes a significant use of energy too.

As they say, Tesla doesn't build'em like they used to (our old S)...and probably that's a good thing.

 

[mpgxsvcd]

When you're getting passed by semis, driving slow doesn't feel safe.

Yes speed kills efficiency due to air resistance, but if it's cold out, speed also saps cabin heat really quickly in our S at least. Using the resistive heater to keep the cabin warm becomes a significant use of energy too.

As they say, Tesla doesn't build'em like they used to (our old S)...and probably that's a good thing.

It is an excuse when people say they can’t drive slower. Sure 55 mph isn’t practical on every road but there is always room to keep right and slow down 5 mph slower than what people typically drive at.

Most people are going so fast that they constantly have to use their brakes. That is the single worst thing you can do for efficiency. Even Regen braking is not as efficient as coasting.

I don’t use friction or regen braking while on the highway. Our roads have construction so no there aren’t any trucks passing me. Everyone is forced to go slow because of the construction.

People can slow down they just simply don’t want to. Yet they still want to complain about EV range and gas prices.

Slowing down works and it is safe if you do it within reason and keep right at all times which people should do anyway.

 

[KenC]

Speed limits in the northeast are typically 65 to 75mph. I like to drive about 8mph above the posted limit, keeps the cops away.

ABRP will calibrate its estimate based upon your car, for 65mph.

I'm showing 225Wh/mile @ 65mph, for a LR-AWD, which seems impressively efficient to me. I'm on Vredestein all-season snow tires! I did a 4400 mile trip last Summer, and I drove fast, 75 to 90mph, and averaged 274Wh/mile. Below is my return part of the roundtrip. Such a great roadtrip vehicle.

 

[Neilio]

No doubt the efficency of a modern tesla is stunning and the drive train and charging g curve very good. But I'm not understanding what the heat pump benefit is, in the middle of summer? Am I missing something? Does it help the AC compressor too?

 

[Candleflame]

No doubt the efficency of a modern tesla is stunning and the drive train and charging g curve very good. But I'm not understanding what the heat pump benefit is, in the middle of summer? Am I missing something? Does it help the AC compressor too?

yes it does very slightly. the heating will still run in summer unless you are in very dry heat. Car ACs cannot dehumidify properly, so what they do is that they exessively cool the air and then heat it back up. to prevent this (i do that sometimes on longhauls where theres no charger for >400kms) you have to set the AC to LO and then manually set the fanspeed. On LO the car will not heat the air.

tbh not sure if heat pump cars have a backup induction heater, technically speaking the AC is the heatpump/reverse cycle ac?