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M3P vs MYP driving dynamics and ride quality

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Totally with @dfwatt on coilovers.
Just remember that tires are a trade-off. Wider or stickier will affect range.
I'm not as sure about the wheels. Wheel weight has less impact than the industry will lead you to believe, and there is no need to go to multi thousand dollar full forged wheels- a $1000 set of 19" wheels will work great, handle and ride better, and the $2000 in savings can be spent in other places more effectively if fast is your goal.
 
@dfwatt - I appreciate the offer. I might take you up on it. I used to live not far from Port Charlotte. When I lived there, Port Charlotte was sort of the local hub for a good street racing scene. I used to set up some good road race courses in Rotunda.

Thanks for the concrete suggestions. What you describe is pretty much what I experienced. Going bigger on wheels and tires can often hurt performance. I did some testing on one of my race cars previously with different-sized wheel/tire combos and various weights. It was really shocking to see how much a wheel/tire combo can kill acceleration. Sometimes the improved grip in the turns didn't offset the amount it killed acceleration. So I am always a big fan of lightweight wheel/tire combo. As light as my budget allows while maintaining structural integrity.

The challenge with the Teslas is not only lightweight, but also aerodynamic efficiency. On the M3P, what is the smallest wheel you can fit and still clear the brakes?

The Mountain Pass kit looks interesting. Looks like you went with their sport coilovers. Did you do the work yourself or have a shop do it? I'd be curious what the install costs are if you didn't do it yourself. If I buy the M3P, I could do the upgrades I think it would need and still come under the cost of the MYP and my wife would definitely like that.

Do you have a thread on any of the mods you did to yours? I checked out your sig which seems to cover some of it.
 
Totally with @dfwatt on coilovers.
Just remember that tires are a trade-off. Wider or stickier will affect range.
I'm not as sure about the wheels. Wheel weight has less impact than the industry will lead you to believe, and there is no need to go to multi thousand dollar full forged wheels- a $1000 set of 19" wheels will work great, handle and ride better, and the $2000 in savings can be spent in other places more effectively if fast is your goal.
Fast and Loud is my goal! Quick and fast is my goal. Are you suggesting going with a set of the factory 19" wheels? That is definitely something to consider.

I don't have an unlimited budget and prefer to use my money as effectively as I can. My wife is very tolerant of my wanting to mod things. Normally no issues if I stay within about 10% of the purchase price. So that gives me roughly 6k to play with if I buy the M3P. If I can sell the stock wheels and tires, that would free up more money. I have gone down to many rabbit holes in my life with modding cars and bikes.
 
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@dfwatt - I appreciate the offer. I might take you up on it. I used to live not far from Port Charlotte. When I lived there, Port Charlotte was sort of the local hub for a good street racing scene. I used to set up some good road race courses in Rotunda.

Thanks for the concrete suggestions. What you describe is pretty much what I experienced. Going bigger on wheels and tires can often hurt performance. I did some testing on one of my race cars previously with different-sized wheel/tire combos and various weights. It was really shocking to see how much a wheel/tire combo can kill acceleration. Sometimes the improved grip in the turns didn't offset the amount it killed acceleration. So I am always a big fan of lightweight wheel/tire combo. As light as my budget allows while maintaining structural integrity.

The challenge with the Teslas is not only lightweight, but also aerodynamic efficiency. On the M3P, what is the smallest wheel you can fit and still clear the brakes?

The Mountain Pass kit looks interesting. Looks like you went with their sport coilovers. Did you do the work yourself or have a shop do it? I'd be curious what the install costs are if you didn't do it yourself. If I buy the M3P, I could do the upgrades I think it would need and still come under the cost of the MYP and my wife would definitely like that.

Do you have a thread on any of the mods you did to yours? I checked out your sig which seems to cover some of it.
Here is a listing and description of all the modifications. Including a short note on what I did with my wife's car. Building the Teslarossa - A Max Model 3 for the Street?
 
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That is one of the best paint by numbers I've seen to create what I think I am looking for. Thanks for sharing. That pretty much seals the way I want to go. The color is the one I'd go with as well. I think I would probably paint the calipers black to make it even more stealthy. Hard to call a Tesla a sleeper now, but without the red calipers, people might not notice it is the M3P.

I'll send you a DM and maybe see about connecting to check our your M3P if you don't mind.
 
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Fast and Loud is my goal! Quick and fast is my goal. Are you suggesting going with a set of the factory 19" wheels? That is definitely something to consider.
Not necessarily the stock 19" wheels, although they will fit. The 18" Aeros fit too with some very minor grinding on a brake caliper protrusion that you can't see.

There are lots of 19" Rotary Forged wheels at around $200-$250 that fit great, are 10 lbs lighter than stock, and you can get wider wheels and tires if you go this way. Again, trades range for grip, but maybe that's worth it. Also gives the car a different look than just going with stock 19's.

I'm still not as fixated on the wheels though. I AutoX my car all the time and I use the stock wheels/tires as my wet tires because the MPS4's are amazing (possibly the best) wet tires around. I can't really notice any difference in acceleration with 10lb lighter wheels at each corner. This is not a Miata. You should absolutely start with coil overs, and I still believe you'll get more performance from camber arms than new wheels unless you are going to much wider tires. The Stock arms are highly limited in camber.

Of course, in the end, the thing that actually makes a car fast is the driver. Sometimes the best mod is spending money on yourself. Most people can't drive a modern performance Tesla anywhere near the limits.

I can't help you with "loud" in an EV. Maybe this is what you are looking for:
 
Service center just let me test a 2021 Model 3 Performance for the weekend. Was seriously impressed. Was pretty much better than my BMW F30 335 in every way except for the doors (feel cheap and didn't close well) and lack of some tech (HUD and 360 cameras). Wind noise was surprisingly low and my wife even commented how comfortable it was (been a lot of talk about the 2021's being softer tho). It was likely as quiet and definitely more comfortable than my BMW but not nearly as good as my wife's new Ford Edge, all of which are many many leagues better than our previous vehicles (Honda Element and Jeep Patriot).

Most importantly, the driving experience was incredible. Instant power, flat handling and direct steering was so much fun.
 
I had a chance to drive the M3P today. It was clearly quieter and seemed to handle and ride better than the MYP. At least from what I remember about the earlier test drive. I plan to go back and drive them back to back over the exact same route and make a decision.

As for acceleration, they both seemed very close. The M3P might be just a touch quicker off the line but after that I couldn't really notice a difference. Both had impressive acceleration for a car. The M3P was clearly quieter. It did feel more tossable and the steering felt more accurate. It would have been an easy choice for me to go with the M3P over the MYP if was a bit easier to get into and had a taller trunk. While I'd prefer a hatchback, I am fine with a trunk if it is tall enough. I'll have to measure and see if what I might need to carry will fit.

While the cockpit is very similar, I am fairly big guy and getting in was definitely more contortions to get in. Once I was in, it was fine though I would like a bit more leg room but in both. The rear was clearly smaller. While I could fit behind the front seat with it all the way back, I wouldn't want to be there long. I'll need to see if I can fit a car seat behind my seat. That might make or break it for us.

Emotionally I feel like I would enjoy the M3P more. Intellectually the MYP would be a better fit for our family and I could tow a trailer occasionally with it and still maintain the warranty. For my wife the versatility of the MYP would trump the M3P and she would like the higher seating position. Now I see why the MY has been selling so well. Our local dealer said the MY's outsell the M3's other than someone looking for the cheapest Tesla.

I thought today's test drive would end up with a clear winner for me so to speak. In some ways, it just muddied the waters. Anyone else wrestle with this decision?
 
I had a chance to drive the M3P today. It was clearly quieter and seemed to handle and ride better than the MYP. At least from what I remember about the earlier test drive. I plan to go back and drive them back to back over the exact same route and make a decision.

As for acceleration, they both seemed very close. The M3P might be just a touch quicker off the line but after that I couldn't really notice a difference. Both had impressive acceleration for a car. The M3P was clearly quieter. It did feel more tossable and the steering felt more accurate. It would have been an easy choice for me to go with the M3P over the MYP if was a bit easier to get into and had a taller trunk. While I'd prefer a hatchback, I am fine with a trunk if it is tall enough. I'll have to measure and see if what I might need to carry will fit.

While the cockpit is very similar, I am fairly big guy and getting in was definitely more contortions to get in. Once I was in, it was fine though I would like a bit more leg room but in both. The rear was clearly smaller. While I could fit behind the front seat with it all the way back, I wouldn't want to be there long. I'll need to see if I can fit a car seat behind my seat. That might make or break it for us.

Emotionally I feel like I would enjoy the M3P more. Intellectually the MYP would be a better fit for our family and I could tow a trailer occasionally with it and still maintain the warranty. For my wife the versatility of the MYP would trump the M3P and she would like the higher seating position. Now I see why the MY has been selling so well. Our local dealer said the MY's outsell the M3's other than someone looking for the cheapest Tesla.

I thought today's test drive would end up with a clear winner for me so to speak. In some ways, it just muddied the waters. Anyone else wrestle with this decision?
MYP - 15% larger and a bit more practical - SUV body
M3P - a little quieter, lighter, better handling - Sedan body

If it really is a family mobile and you plan to tow stuff then the MYP is probably the better choice. Still super quick and practical. If this car is 90% you driving it alone and you prefer the smaller, more driver focus sedan than the M3P could get the edge. I prefer the look of the M3 better, not a fan of the bulging roofline on the MY but a worthy compromise for the extra space and towing capability.

If you have other more driver focused vehicles in the fleet than the MYP seems like the better fit.
 
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If my wife was onboard, I'd just buy them both. Would solve that dilemma. I had a great Italian teacher who constantly reminded us he came from the "old country" to the US. He maintained that happiness in Italy was having both a wife and a mistress. According to him it was pretty common as long as the two didn't cross paths all was good.

So his words put this decision sort of in the following context for me.

Wife/husband = MYP
Lover/paramour = M3P

So ideally I would want the M3YP if I could only choose one, which currently doesn't exist. There are so close to each other in a lot of ways. This is great and at the same time harder to decide between them. They are both so good, yet still have a few quirks or design choices that make it difficult to choose. If the MYP matched the M3P closer in acceleration, I'd probably go with it and slap on lightweight smaller diamter wheels, coilovers and some dynamat on it and call it a day.

It will definitely help to drive them back to back and take the family at the same time. I think a car seat would definitely be easier in the MYP to deal with. But if it can fit in the M3P and keep my kid far enough away to keep from kicking the front seat, I could live with that. I'll just try and talk my wife into buying both and see where that goes. I feel like I am splitting hairs but I am pretty much stuck with whatever I buy for a while to keep peace in the family.
 
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If my wife was onboard, I'd just buy them both. Would solve that dilemma. I had a great Italian teacher who constantly reminded us he came from the "old country" to the US. He maintained that happiness in Italy was having both a wife and a mistress. According to him it was pretty common as long as the two didn't cross paths all was good.

So his words put this decision sort of in the following context for me.

Wife/husband = MYP
Lover/paramour = M3P

So ideally I would want the M3YP if I could only choose one, which currently doesn't exist. There are so close to each other in a lot of ways. This is great and at the same time harder to decide between them. They are both so good, yet still have a few quirks or design choices that make it difficult to choose. If the MYP matched the M3P closer in acceleration, I'd probably go with it and slap on lightweight smaller diamter wheels, coilovers and some dynamat on it and call it a day.

It will definitely help to drive them back to back and take the family at the same time. I think a car seat would definitely be easier in the MYP to deal with. But if it can fit in the M3P and keep my kid far enough away to keep from kicking the front seat, I could live with that. I'll just try and talk my wife into buying both and see where that goes. I feel like I am splitting hairs but I am pretty much stuck with whatever I buy for a while to keep peace in the family.

These are good problems to have in life. I think you will be happy with either. Like everything the honeymoon will eventually wear off so ask yourself which model would be best in 6-12 months from now.
 
Great advice and that is exactly my thought process. What are the idiosyncrasies that would bother me long-term. Both cars have a lot of great positives that can mask the things you can't live with long-term. I just dodged a bullet like that on a fairly expensive motorcycle. On the surface, it seemed like what I would like. I did, and I still do, but long term it wouldn't have worked for me. Thankfully I took a long enough test ride to realize that.

Hard not to like either of the Teslas. One thing I did finally understand is I can probably live with only having the center screen. Not a fan of having only one screen but I think I can live with it. I still hate having a lack of analog buttons rather than a touch screen to do everything.
 
Emotionally I feel like I would enjoy the M3P more. Intellectually the MYP would be a better fit for our family and I could tow a trailer occasionally with it and still maintain the warranty.
This was exactly my issue. Hated how the Y felt on rough roads, and 90% of my driving is around town by myself. Ended up getting 3lr. Definitely a tight fit w one car seat and 65# dog, but it's a better commute for me...
 
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Great advice and that is exactly my thought process. What are the idiosyncrasies that would bother me long-term. Both cars have a lot of great positives that can mask the things you can't live with long-term. I just dodged a bullet like that on a fairly expensive motorcycle. On the surface, it seemed like what I would like. I did, and I still do, but long term it wouldn't have worked for me. Thankfully I took a long enough test ride to realize that.

Hard not to like either of the Teslas. One thing I did finally understand is I can probably live with only having the center screen. Not a fan of having only one screen but I think I can live with it. I still hate having a lack of analog buttons rather than a touch screen to do everything.
The minimalist design with a single screen does take some getting used to especially if you like the wrap around cockpit feel of a sports car. I miss that element from my Corvette, you feel more embedded and a part of the car which makes it feel special. On the flip side moving all those gauges, buttons and dials into software on a single center display does make a whole lot of sense. The Tesla software is light years ahead of the traditional auto manufacturers. This is where Tesla has been able to shake up the whole auto industry. The EV aspect is just one element, it is the big iPad like control system with voice recognition, high res google earth maps, streaming audio, Netflix, video games, farting noises, etc. that draw even more folks to the brand. Once you use the Tesla infotainment system for a bit it will feel archaic when you get back in a traditional vehicle. People who don’t even like cars or driving enjoy the Tesla due to the enhanced software and tech. IMO, this is where Tesla hit a home run.
 
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The minimalist design with a single screen does take some getting used to especially if you like the wrap around cockpit feel of a sports car. I miss that element from my Corvette, you feel more embedded and a part of the car which makes it feel special. On the flip side moving all those gauges, buttons and dials into software on a single center display does make a whole lot of sense. The Tesla software is light years ahead of the traditional auto manufacturers. This is where Tesla has been able to shake up the whole auto industry. The EV aspect is just one element, it is the big iPad like control system with voice recognition, high res google earth maps, streaming audio, Netflix, video games, farting noises, etc. that draw even more folks to the brand. Once you use the Tesla infotainment system for a bit it will feel archaic when you get back in a traditional vehicle. People who don’t even like cars or driving enjoy the Tesla due to the enhanced software and tech. IMO, this is where Tesla hit a home run.

Well put. Have you tried the screen tilt mechanism– I can't remember who's making it but it's not an easy install. But it might give you that slightly more driver-centric instrumentation.
 
Well put. Have you tried the screen tilt mechanism– I can't remember who's making it but it's not an easy install. But it might give you that slightly more driver-centric instrumentation.
I have not but that sounds pretty cool though. I usually mod my cars a little bit but for some reason I am hesitant to do so on the Tesla. If I could order factory parts online and stuff like that I would feel more comfortable. When I got my car it had some scuffs on the rocker skid plates when it came off the transporter. I downloaded the parts manual online, found the part #s and I had to open a service ticket with Tesla to have them order them under warranty. The service was great but I just like being able to search for a part # online and have 10 different parts departments competing to drive down the price. Tesla appears to keep all the pricing detail out of the public eye. I guess that is one downside of not having a traditional dealer network.

It would be informative to see the price of the motors, batteries, center display, compressor, inverters, charge port, brake rotors, etc.
 
I have a M3P.

I use a sound measuring tool, and use my Apple Watch quite a bit for frequent monitoring of road noise simply out of curiosity and because I love a quiet cocoon of an interior. I also am deliberate about keeping sound safe for my ears.

The M3P with 20” wheels is not super loud car, but it’s a little louder than my work vehicles that are late model Camery but only by 1-2 dec at most of on the same surface. These work cars also have very new tires all the time, and the base model 4 cylinder motor which is super quiet unless you’re at 6000 rpm because it has no power at all, has no power band, and you have to floor it to slowly pass someone. Then it sounds like it’s going to blow up. Just cruising at 80 it’s quiet though because it’s a tiny low power motor designed to run at 1000rpm gearing wise and make 40mpg.

Now on the negative, the stereo is terrible in the Camery so to get the listening level at s point to make the music sound ok, you end up with more decibels than the M3 to have a good audio experience. Win for the M3. The stereo in the M3 is very good without having listen very loudly which means, in my opinion anecdotally, as well as with my dec meter, the M3 catches up a bit with even some of the nicer cars I’ll mention later.

I had an RS7 and a Porsche Panamera Turbo S. The Porsche was a bit quieter by 1-2 decibels, but that is a very sound dampened car. These cars with my meter are 68-74 dec depending on road surfaces, and radio. I take measurements with and without because I try to keep my radio + car sound at safe levels for me ears.

My modified GTR was 84-86 dec with the radio on, on the highway a good 10 dec or so higher than anything I’ve driven on the highway. It wasn’t fun for cruising to be honest, and I’m a danger sound for long term exposure.

There are tons of factors that contribute. Keep in mind that with sound, sound on top of sound isn’t a simple equation. Adding 10 dec to something that is 30 dec doesn’t equal 40. Direction, type, frequency, and I’m not an acoustic expert, all effect the perceived noise too.

1) The lack of engine and transmission sound is a factor and does allow for a perceived increase of other noises.

2) You hear more wind nose because of item 1, and the M3 itself has more wind noise that other cars that I’ve owned. The glass roof, and frameless door windows allow for more wind noise especially from crosswind. For me, I hate wind noise, so even if the dec inside aren’t more than say another car, my perceived noise is higher because I hate to hear wind noise. The windows need to be adjusted correctly and I’ve even added a secondary rubber seal to keep the windows sealed tight. Made a huge difference.

3) There is tire noise in the M3P but even for 20” 35 side wall sticker tires less in my ears that other cars, which is especially interesting to me because wheel well appear to have no sound dampening material at all. Now maybe that’s because I’m focused on wind noise because I hate that.

4) The stereo is very good in the M3P. This coming from an Audi and a Porsche that had upgraded stereo options. The M3P is better than the Audi Bose system and on par with B & O (or whatever it was). It’s not as good as the $8000 Bermeister in the $200,000 Panamera (2012 model) that I drove, and that car had zero wind noise. But that said, I don’t feel as if I’ve taken a huge step down. The M3 doesn’t sound as good cranked as the Bermeister, but at normal volumes is more spacious. That’s compared to a $200,000 car. The stereo in the M3P is great, has some noise cancelling and other than wind noise helps to give the perception of a quieter cabin when it’s on. It allows for great quality at lower volumes which means overall less dec when listening to music than the less expensive Camery, and some other cars I’ve tested.

5) Sticky performance tires are always louder than other types of tires. Lower sidewalls, 20” wheels, all louder for road noise. Tires brands and models can make a huge difference even a dec or two. Pilot sports are the best tire for performance and wear. They are just fantastic. I’ve used them on almost all of my fast cars. They aren’t the most quiet of tire, but they aren’t the loudest either. Also keep in mind that once tires are 30-40 % worn they will get louder. At 50% significantly louder depending on the tire make and model. If you want less road noise, find a quiet all season and put on 19” wheels with a 40 sidewall. 35-40 sidewall is a bigger jump than 40-45 sound wise in my experience.

To be honest, my guess is you could improve the M3 drastically with sound dampening in key locations. My brother did this in his corvette and it was an incredible difference. I’m not talking about vibration dampening material like dynamat that people call dampening which it is not, though that stuff helps too. You need mass to absorb sound which does mean a little weight. He used mass loaded vinyl sheets in the wheel wells and under the carpets and it made a huge difference by about 3 decibels. That doesn’t sound like a lot but it is because of how it scales, and because of where the sound is taken out.

I think id some MLV was used in the wheel wells of the Tesla, it would make a huge difference, it’s just all open and resonate in there.

Anyway long post.
 
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I have a M3P.

I use a sound measuring tool, and use my Apple Watch quite a bit for frequent monitoring of road noise simply out of curiosity and because I love a quiet cocoon of an interior. I also am deliberate about keeping sound safe for my ears.

The M3P with 20” wheels is not super loud car, but it’s a little louder than my work vehicles that are late model Camery but only by 1-2 dec at most of on the same surface. These work cars also have very new tires all the time, and the base model 4 cylinder motor which is super quiet unless you’re at 6000 rpm because it has no power at all, has no power band, and you have to floor it to slowly pass someone. Then it sounds like it’s going to blow up. Just cruising at 80 it’s quiet though because it’s a tiny low power motor designed to run at 1000rpm gearing wise and make 40mpg.

Now on the negative, the stereo is terrible in the Camery so to get the listening level at s point to make the music sound ok, you end up with more decibels than the M3 to have a good audio experience. Win for the M3. The stereo in the M3 is very good without having listen very loudly which means, in my opinion anecdotally, as well as with my dec meter, the M3 catches up a bit with even some of the nicer cars I’ll mention later.

I had an RS7 and a Porsche Panamera Turbo S. The Porsche was a bit quieter by 1-2 decibels, but that is a very sound dampened car. These cars with my meter are 68-74 dec depending on road surfaces, and radio. I take measurements with and without because I try to keep my radio + car sound at safe levels for me ears.

My modified GTR was 84-86 dec with the radio on, on the highway a good 10 dec or so higher than anything I’ve driven on the highway. It wasn’t fun for cruising to be honest, and I’m a danger sound for long term exposure.

There are tons of factors that contribute. Keep in mind that with sound, sound on top of sound isn’t a simple equation. Adding 10 dec to something that is 30 dec doesn’t equal 40. Direction, type, frequency, and I’m not an acoustic expert, all effect the perceived noise too.

1) The lack of engine and transmission sound is a factor and does allow for a perceived increase of other noises.

2) You hear more wind nose because of item 1, and the M3 itself has more wind noise that other cars that I’ve owned. The glass roof, and frameless door windows allow for more wind noise especially from crosswind. For me, I hate wind noise, so even if the dec inside aren’t more than say another car, my perceived noise is higher because I hate to hear wind noise. The windows need to be adjusted correctly and I’ve even added a secondary rubber seal to keep the windows sealed tight. Made a huge difference.

3) There is tire noise in the M3P but even for 20” 35 side wall sticker tires less in my ears that other cars, which is especially interesting to me because wheel well appear to have no sound dampening material at all. Now maybe that’s because I’m focused on wind noise because I hate that.

4) The stereo is very good in the M3P. This coming from an Audi and a Porsche that had upgraded stereo options. The M3P is better than the Audi Bose system and on par with B & O (or whatever it was). It’s not as good as the $8000 Bermeister in the $200,000 Panamera (2012 model) that I drove, and that car had zero wind noise. But that said, I don’t feel as if I’ve taken a huge step down. The M3 doesn’t sound as good cranked as the Bermeister, but at normal volumes is more spacious. That’s compared to a $200,000 car. The stereo in the M3P is great, has some noise cancelling and other than wind noise helps to give the perception of a quieter cabin when it’s on. It allows for great quality at lower volumes which means overall less dec when listening to music than the less expensive Camery, and some other cars I’ve tested.

5) Sticky performance tires are always louder than other types of tires. Lower sidewalls, 20” wheels, all louder for road noise. Tires brands and models can make a huge difference even a dec or two. Pilot sports are the best tire for performance and wear. They are just fantastic. I’ve used them on almost all of my fast cars. They aren’t the most quiet of tire, but they aren’t the loudest either. Also keep in mind that once tires are 30-40 % worn they will get louder. At 50% significantly louder depending on the tire make and model. If you want less road noise, find a quiet all season and put on 19” wheels with a 40 sidewall. 35-40 sidewall is a bigger jump than 40-45 sound wise in my experience.

To be honest, my guess is you could improve the M3 drastically with sound dampening in key locations. My brother did this in his corvette and it was an incredible difference. I’m not talking about vibration dampening material like dynamat that people call dampening which it is not, though that stuff helps too. You need mass to absorb sound which does mean a little weight. He used mass loaded vinyl sheets in the wheel wells and under the carpets and it made a huge difference by about 3 decibels. That doesn’t sound like a lot but it is because of how it scales, and because of where the sound is taken out.

I think id some MLV was used in the wheel wells of the Tesla, it would make a huge difference, it’s just all open and resonate in there.

Anyway long post.
I spent a lot of time and energy trying to make the cars quieter and I think we reached a point of diminishing returns but in any case here's what we did and overall I probably got about 5 DB of noise reduction.

1) First the RPM Tesla neoprene tubing around the top roof glass but also solid neoprene tubing in the larger gaps in the rear glass also. Then we doubled up on the rubber seals around front and rear doors. These definitely helped significantly. Was challenging because I had to use extra double-sided tape because the double-sided tape on the neoprene door seal kits is lousy frankly and has little durability.

2) as a huge sinkhole for time dynamatting the doors front and rear, and then the entire rear enclosure/trunk area. Still not sure how much of a difference this made but it certainly did quiet the ride over bumps, and it also made the doors shut with a much more solid 'thunk' instead of a tinny rattle sound. This collectively took a boat load of time.

3) front and rear wheel well got closed cell foam put on underneath the wheel well liners , and front got an additional wheel well liner insulating kit from RPM Tesla to quiet road noise.
 
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