MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

[Vines]

Back when Tesla cared about their owners, they provided these units for Tesla owners for charging at special events at Laguna Seca. Those days are long gone

Laguna Seca had a trackside Supercharger hooked up to a megapack for the weekend, so the glory days are back! We appreciated it at Tesla Corsa 10.

 

[mattack4000]

Second getting the Motive bleeder, makes it super easy to do yourself and you can get different caps for other vehicles if desired.

HOw many PSI do you keep it at? I have gone through bleeding twice, I swear I still have some old fluid/bubbles in there as I keep getting brake fade. I used 15psi.

 

[mattack4000]

Laguna Seca had a trackside Supercharger hooked up to a megapack for the weekend, so the glory days are back! We appreciated it at Tesla Corsa 10.

Yeah that was helpful, we need more of that around all the tracks for support. Unless you pull off early or don't care about lap times, these cars basically need to be topped off after each section.

 

[mattack4000]

Yeah that was helpful, we need more of that around all the tracks for support. Unless you pull off early or don't care about lap times, these cars basically need to be topped off after each section.

meant to say session

I forgot, for people running on bigger tires and wheels, please consider ziptie your abs wire out of the way of the tire. It’s a $90 mistake and possible off road excursion without it

 

[mcbarnet007]

HOw many PSI do you keep it at? I have gone through bleeding twice, I swear I still have some old fluid/bubbles in there as I keep getting brake fade. I used 15psi.

I use no more than 10psi. You can also pump the brake pedal to speed things up.

 

[mattack4000]

I used 15 psi last time and didn’t pump the pedal. No air bubbles or anything came out, pedal still feels like poop

 

[destructure00]

I used 15 psi last time and didn’t pump the pedal. No air bubbles or anything came out, pedal still feels like poop

What do your rotors look like? If you have a bunch of pad transfer you will get a poopy pedal too, even if nothing is wrong with the fluid.

 

[mattack4000]

What do your rotors look like? If you have a bunch of pad transfer you will get a poopy pedal too, even if nothing is wrong with the fluid.

They look fine. I bled the brakes before my track day. Pedal was okay, but it got much longer after the first lap. It never fully came back. Matter of fact, it got WORSE in the second session after a 2 hours wait. On my third session, the pedal did come back a little bit. Overall, it is still soft. I don't have that much confidence in it.

I am running Castrol SRF, can't do anything more than what I got.

 

[MountainPass]

They look fine. I bled the brakes before my track day. Pedal was okay, but it got much longer after the first lap. It never fully came back. Matter of fact, it got WORSE in the second session after a 2 hours wait. On my third session, the pedal did come back a little bit. Overall, it is still soft. I don't have that much confidence in it.

I am running Castrol SRF, can't do anything more than what I got.

How much pad do you have left?

 

[mattack4000]

How much pad do you have left?

70% based on a quick visual check

 

[destructure00]

70% based on a quick visual check

Which pads are you running? If they are glazed over that will do it too.

 

[mattack4000]

Which pads are you running? If they are glazed over that will do it too.

That is certainly possible. I am using the Endless pads. I don't think they are up to the task of what I would like in a track pad, but it sure is nice to be able to street them without much noise or crazy rotor wear. I recall the pedal felt great the first time I put it on and bleed it. After one corner, the pedal went long and never really came back.

 

[MasterC17]

That is certainly possible. I am using the Endless pads. I don't think they are up to the task of what I would like in a track pad, but it sure is nice to be able to street them without much noise or crazy rotor wear. I recall the pedal felt great the first time I put it on and bleed it. After one corner, the pedal went long and never really came back.

BBK time.

 

[mattack4000]

BBK time.

dont do enough days to justify them at the moment, I am working with cobalt friction on a set of pads, maybe that will give better bite. Honesty I just need my brakes to be reliable and consistent. The car stops, but just doesn’t feel good doing it

 

[Vines]

I went with the UP street and track pads, and they are pretty good for what I want in a pad. They are not really a full race pad but neither is this a full race car. Really you can only get a hot lap then a cool lap then a hot lap anyway. Alternately you can run at 9/10ths but then you probably can be a bit easier on your brakes.

I flushed a whole bottle of SRF through mine just before the track day and they feel really nice now. The rears fluid was super funky but the fronts were looking pretty much ok. This is the second bottle of SRF I have put in, the first went in about 6 months after I bought the car and had one track day.
With the SRF, and the UP pads the pedal does have some extra travel when it heats up, however with decent the extra force I can get reliable full braking when running a 1:50 at Laguna. I still was leaving some on the table, but this is my otherwise bone stock DD, and my first day ever at Laguna Seca.

Once these rotors wear out, I'll probably go with the MPP replacements, to get the extra thermal mass and the air pumping action of the directional vanes.

 

[mattack4000]

Yeah @mcbarnet007 also said the rears are the first to go, for right now all I can do is flush the system again. I am hoping it is just an air pocket in the system or some old fluid

 

[mattack4000]

Flushed the right side of the car, didn’t see any bubbles really. Pads have more than 70% left, some seepage from the caliper nipple. I was lucky and checked my new abs damage was getting chewed up again. Apparently my zip tie fix didn’t work properly, now I have the wire running behind the suspension arm.

pads still feels like it has no bite, I think it’s what I get for having a moderate pad

 

[mcbarnet007]

EX90 needs a little bit of heat to have good bite.

 

[Dangerous Fish]

If you used one bottle i.e. 1 litre of SRF, are you sure you got all the existing fluid flushed out?
Unless the OE fluid was discoloured, it's impossible to see a difference when you're bleeding each caliper and I've not been able to find the capacity of the system listed anywhere, so I used at least 1.5 litres when I flushed mine to make sure I'd replaced all the fluid.

 

[MasterC17]

dont do enough days to justify them at the moment, I am working with cobalt friction on a set of pads, maybe that will give better bite. Honesty I just need my brakes to be reliable and consistent. The car stops, but just doesn’t feel good doing it

I thought the same thing. Then I threw a bunch of money at different pads and rotors and was never happy. Ultimately, I still ended up paying for a BBK but I first flushed $1,500 down the toilet that I will never get back. Not to mention many hours of my time.

Do it once, do it right.

You can sell the stock front calipers for ~$1,000. So the cost of the BBK is now more like $3,000. The BBK will always be worth 50-75% of what you paid for it. The pads and rotors will need to be replaced less frequently so the running costs are less. But best of all - IT JUST WORKS.

This is why I have a super secret surprise in the mail for my Red 3