With zero camber? It's about right if one wants their tires to last until they get proper camber arms.Thats way too high for that size.
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With zero camber? It's about right if one wants their tires to last until they get proper camber arms.Thats way too high for that size.
Start from calculating nominal load pressure Tire Pressure CalculatorThat’s what I thought any recomendation ?
I tried daily high front camber on 4s and cup 2 - not enough front grip and wears inner edge.I also run lower pressures: 32 PSI cold on my 275/35R19 daily all-seasons, and have settled on 30 PSI hot for my Federal 595RS-pros, also in 275/35R19.
I daily and race with 3.2f and 2.4r camber.
I disagree whether its stock camber or not. It's not a stock size tire.With zero camber? It's about right if one wants their tires to last until they get proper camber arms.
I kinda want to see a pic of the sidewall of those RSRRs, after being run at 2.1bar/30psi with no camber.
I'd run 2.8-3.0bar until you get front/rear camber arms.
Thanks for these, but I was really wondering about the outer sidewall getting scrubbed too much. This one is showing the inner sidewall, which is predictably doing nothing.As you can see tire wear is pretty well distributed maybe a little more in the center
Yup my bad ill upload a picture after tomorrows trackdayThanks for these, but I was really wondering about the outer sidewall getting scrubbed too much. This one is showing the inner sidewall, which is predictably doing nothing.
Yup my bad ill upload a picture after tomorrows trackday
The displayed brake temps are just an algorithm assessing average brake usage, and assumes stock brakes when presenting warnings.So I had my M3P at the track this weekend and tried running without regen to see how it impacted battery temps. Well, the battery seemed fine, but in a few laps I got a warning that the brakes were too hot. I'm running the MPP BBK in the front and upgraded rotors in the rear with track pads all around. Do you think the warning is something to worry about? I wondered if the Tesla has some hardcoded brake temp warning. The brakes felt ok.
Also, scan my tesla said the front temps peaked at about 1200F.
Very curious if you guys have had a chance to examine the new suspension on the Highland refresh which is of course more than a refresh. Wondering if the existing kits and various pieces including your fantastic front lower control arm bushing will fit the new models or whether you're coming out with a new ones next year.Unfortunately ignoring false brake temperature warnings is part of the Model 3 Trackday Experience™
The MPP homework on the Highland is already underway and we will either release updated parts for the new car or update our applications if the -2023 parts can be used!Very curious if you guys have had a chance to examine the new suspension on the Highland refresh which is of course more than a refresh. Wondering if the existing kits and various pieces including your fantastic front lower control arm bushing will fit the new models or whether you're coming out with a new ones next year.
I can now sprint for 3 laps in a row on a small track with a length of 2 km, and then the center pad shows an overheating alarm, but the brakes don't feel softer, can I assume that the brakes aren't really overheating? Is it harmful to keep pushing? At present, the brake fluid I use is SF650, and the brake rotors and brake pads have been replaced, and the original calipers are kept.Unfortunately ignoring false brake temperature warnings is part of the Model 3 Trackday Experience™
It’s likely the warning is mostly preventing drivers from boiling stock fluid first, and then slicking the stock pads second. Having replaced both, I think you are good to ignore the [electronic] warnings. I have not heard of anyone damaging the stock P calipers themselves from heat.I can now sprint for 3 laps in a row on a small track with a length of 2 km, and then the center pad shows an overheating alarm, but the brakes don't feel softer, can I assume that the brakes aren't really overheating? Is it harmful to keep pushing? At present, the brake fluid I use is SF650, and the brake rotors and brake pads have been replaced, and the original calipers are kept.
If you put a high temp fluid you might unlock a path to Blackbo.It’s likely the warning is mostly preventing drivers from boiling stock fluid first, and then slicking the stock pads second. Having replaced both, I think you are good to ignore the [electronic] warnings. I have not heard of anyone damaging the stock P calipers themselves from heat.
How old is your bar? Some early ones apparently rubbed even with stock caster.Anyone ever run into this?
Added white line caster bushings and now I’m making contact with endlink on UP Sway bar in the front.
I know it’ll probably stop if I add more bar but the car doesn't need it in the front imo.