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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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That’s what I thought any recomendation ?
Start from calculating nominal load pressure Tire Pressure Calculator

For the track measure inner, outer, center tire temperature. If outer is highest - not enough camber, if lowest - too much camber. If central is highest - too high pressure, if lowest - too low pressure.

For the street look at the shape and wearing signs. Also if its too bouncy - its too high. If its not holding potholes well - too low.
 
I kinda want to see a pic of the sidewall of those RSRRs, after being run at 2.1bar/30psi with no camber.
I'd run 2.8-3.0bar until you get front/rear camber arms.
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As you can see tire wear is pretty well distributed maybe a little more in the center
 
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So I had my M3P at the track this weekend and tried running without regen to see how it impacted battery temps. Well, the battery seemed fine, but in a few laps I got a warning that the brakes were too hot. I'm running the MPP BBK in the front and upgraded rotors in the rear with track pads all around. Do you think the warning is something to worry about? I wondered if the Tesla has some hardcoded brake temp warning. The brakes felt ok.

Also, scan my tesla said the front temps peaked at about 1200F.
 
So I had my M3P at the track this weekend and tried running without regen to see how it impacted battery temps. Well, the battery seemed fine, but in a few laps I got a warning that the brakes were too hot. I'm running the MPP BBK in the front and upgraded rotors in the rear with track pads all around. Do you think the warning is something to worry about? I wondered if the Tesla has some hardcoded brake temp warning. The brakes felt ok.

Also, scan my tesla said the front temps peaked at about 1200F.
The displayed brake temps are just an algorithm assessing average brake usage, and assumes stock brakes when presenting warnings.

I’d honestly say slowly work your way up to find the limit. As long as you are paying attention, fade should not develop so quickly as to be unsafe (I.e. everything is fine and then you go off the track in the next turn).
 
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Unfortunately ignoring false brake temperature warnings is part of the Model 3 Trackday Experience™
Very curious if you guys have had a chance to examine the new suspension on the Highland refresh which is of course more than a refresh. Wondering if the existing kits and various pieces including your fantastic front lower control arm bushing will fit the new models or whether you're coming out with a new ones next year.
 
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Very curious if you guys have had a chance to examine the new suspension on the Highland refresh which is of course more than a refresh. Wondering if the existing kits and various pieces including your fantastic front lower control arm bushing will fit the new models or whether you're coming out with a new ones next year.
The MPP homework on the Highland is already underway and we will either release updated parts for the new car or update our applications if the -2023 parts can be used!
 
Unfortunately ignoring false brake temperature warnings is part of the Model 3 Trackday Experience™
I can now sprint for 3 laps in a row on a small track with a length of 2 km, and then the center pad shows an overheating alarm, but the brakes don't feel softer, can I assume that the brakes aren't really overheating? Is it harmful to keep pushing? At present, the brake fluid I use is SF650, and the brake rotors and brake pads have been replaced, and the original calipers are kept.
 
I can now sprint for 3 laps in a row on a small track with a length of 2 km, and then the center pad shows an overheating alarm, but the brakes don't feel softer, can I assume that the brakes aren't really overheating? Is it harmful to keep pushing? At present, the brake fluid I use is SF650, and the brake rotors and brake pads have been replaced, and the original calipers are kept.
It’s likely the warning is mostly preventing drivers from boiling stock fluid first, and then slicking the stock pads second. Having replaced both, I think you are good to ignore the [electronic] warnings. I have not heard of anyone damaging the stock P calipers themselves from heat.
 
It’s likely the warning is mostly preventing drivers from boiling stock fluid first, and then slicking the stock pads second. Having replaced both, I think you are good to ignore the [electronic] warnings. I have not heard of anyone damaging the stock P calipers themselves from heat.
If you put a high temp fluid you might unlock a path to Blackbo.
 
Anyone ever run into this?
Added white line caster bushings and now I’m making contact with endlink on UP Sway bar in the front.
I know it’ll probably stop if I add more bar but the car doesn't need it in the front imo.
 

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Anyone ever run into this?
Added white line caster bushings and now I’m making contact with endlink on UP Sway bar in the front.
I know it’ll probably stop if I add more bar but the car doesn't need it in the front imo.
How old is your bar? Some early ones apparently rubbed even with stock caster.
This may be relevant.